With a unique restaurant culture that celebrates seasonality, our love for the outdoors and the wealth of produce available in Australia, the Sydney restaurant scene is constantly evolving and impressing us with quality, creativity and culinary variety.
From a Middle Eastern restaurant in a converted Eastern Suburbs church to a French bistro offering $2 escargots and a modern Chinese restaurant by the team behind a bunch of local favourites, exciting places to eat continue to enter the Sydney scene — so there’s always a new restaurant worth your next booking.
Here are the best new restaurants in Sydney.
Watermans
The Bentley Restaurant Group opened Mediterranean-inspired restaurant Watermans in Barangaroo late last year, marking a return to the waterfront precinct just over a year since the closure of Cirrus. Led by Darryl Martin (Barzaari) as executive chef, the menu takes inspiration from the Levant, with a custom-made, wood-fired grill and oven influencing most of the menu. Key dishes include pickled watermelon and raw tuna salad with sumac; sweet and sour Abrolhos scallop with sesame praline; and pomegranate-glazed, slow-cooked lamb shoulder with pickled radishes and black lime.
Located in the One Sydney Harbour development, the restaurant sees long-term collaborator of the group Pascale Gomes-McNabb, alongside Chris Grinham from H&E Architects, deliver a 120-seat space, including a large outdoor dining area with lush greenery-covered pergolas perfect for summer dining.
Rick Stein at Coogee Beach
Rick Stein’s first Sydney restaurant builds on the popularity of his restaurants at Bannisters properties in Mollymook and Port Stephens, on the New South Wales South Coast. “The connection between my restaurants and the sea is very important to me,” Stein told Gourmet Traveller. “The ethos of my restaurants almost requires that they be by the sea.”
Stein’s unmistakable voice and love for seafood shines through on the Rick Stein at Coogee Beach menu: XO pipis are described as “one of my favourite seafood dishes — particularly when made with Australian pipis,” while oysters Charentaise invites diners to “eat an oyster, take a bite of sausage, then a good gulp of cold white wine.” As well as the quality, Stein says he’s inspired by the variety of fish on offer in Australia. “Fish like snapper and blue-eye… flathead is a favourite — there’s so much flavour in so many of the species,” he says. Rick’s fish and chips, in the style of his sell-out Padstow chippie, are fried in beef dripping and come with mushy peas and tartare sauce, and dishes with Asian roots — a favourite of the chef himself — include his famous Singapore chilli crab.
The restaurant has a relaxed coastal aesthetic across a main dining room, outdoor dining terrace, two semi-private dining rooms and a bar.
For more of the latest restaurant news, pick up the latest Gourmet Traveller magazine or subscribe here.
Aambra
Tthe Rose Bay Uniting Church has been transformed into a light-filled, 140-seat Levantine restaurant. Owner Cristian Gorgees has spent the last three years working closely with interior designer Paul Papadopoulos from DS17 to bring his vision for Aambra to life. “This property is such an important part of Rose Bay and indeed Sydney’s history,” said Gorgees, “so we wanted to make sure there was something special about every inch of it.” Outside, a multi-level wraparound deck is furnished with lounge chairs and olive trees. Inside, original stained-glass windows, Italian marble floors, custom pendant lights and an open kitchen aren’t the only attractions.
With executive chef Gianluca Lonati – ex-Nour – leading the charge, the share-style menu showcases a breadth of flavours from Iraq, Lebanon, Jordan, Cyprus and Egypt. Snacks and smaller plates might look like samke harra (Lebanese-style spicy fish) whiting sando with whipped tahini, or a seafood version of kibbeh nayeh made with tuna instead of lamb. Mains feature an on-the-bone 800-gram wagyu rib-eye that’s cooked over an open-flame grill, or dry-aged carob duck crown. On the drinks front, sommelier Sasa Savic has curated a wine list more than 130 strong, as well as fruity cocktails like a watermelon Martini or arak elderflower Spritz.
South End
The first project from a trio of respected names in Sydney hospitality, South End is a neighbourhood bistro on Newtown’s King Street. In the kitchen, former Fred’s head chef Hussein Sarhan is joined by Alex Tong (Ester and Hong Kong’s Belon and Ho Lee Fook), serving a highly seasonal menu that puts flavour first. “We want to be the local everyone wants as their local,” said Tong in a statement. “There for an easy meal at the bar, but just as ready to roll for a splash-out good time for a celebration, and with enough movement in the menu to keep it fresh week to week.”
Snacks and smaller plates might look like potato rösti with curls of Tête de Moine cheese and chestnut honey, or buttermilk-fried rabbit with green garlic aioli. Mains follow the same broadly European lean — described by Sarhan as “potato Europe in the winter and tomato Europe in the summer” — which could look like whole flounder with sauce vierge, or roast chicken with nettle butter.
Leading service and drinks is Paul Guiney, who cites Embla, A.P Bread and Wine and The Bentley Group in his former stable and claimed GT’s joint Maître d’ of the Year title in 2008. Expect an “always fun, always delicious” wine program that favours emerging and interesting producers from Australia and Europe over established labels, and a few batched cocktails.
Young’s Palace
Potts Point has scored a take on the old-school Chinese restaurant by “Big” Sam Young and partner Grace Chen. Young’s Palace sticks to interpretations of favourites seen in Chinatowns around the world — the likes of prawn toast, sweet and sour pork, and fried rice — where Young’s first restaurant, S’more in Castlecrag, is luxe, over the top, and indulgent.
“The brief is local neighbourhood Chinese, and I want to stick to the truth of it,” says Young. “I want to make this restaurant approachable to everyone.” For those looking to splash out, a “secret menu” of premium lobster, beef, truffle and caviar provides the high-end fixings that made S’more a destination. Similarly, the wine list offers affordable options with a “baller” selection of coveted producers (of the ilk of Selosse or Pierre-Yves Colin Morey) and vintages.
The styling of the corner site on Kellett Street plays with the familiar aesthetic, with fringed lamps and curtains, red velvet banquettes, and artworks of roosters and dragons. Come summer, plans for the outdoor space include spritzes, bottomless lunches, and a “hangover greatest hits” menu.
Vin-Cenzo’s
Bar Copains, Bessie’s and Alma’s owners Morgan McGlone and Sali and Nathan Sasi are putting their spin on Italian at the former Bar Vincent site in Darlinghurst. Vin-Cenzo’s offers a commitment to produce over authenticity, with inspiration from France, Spain, and even America’s take on Italian cuisine. Menu standouts look like grilled scampi with chilli, garlic and Sicilian oregano; a veal T-bone with Marsala and shimeji mushrooms; and pastas including pumpkin and pecorino quadrati (like a thick, square spaghetti), or rigatoni with tripe and sweetbread ragu.
The significant dessert menu tempts with an Italian biscuit selection (served in a vintage tin) inspired by Nathan’s Sicilian godmother, plus coffee granita with whipped mascarpone, a pig fat cannolo with Sicilian almonds, and a line-up of sorbet and gelati. Wines mostly cover Italian, French and Australian makers (including some rare vintages from McGlone’s personal cellar), and cocktails cover Italian classics.
The space, while it’s kept its signature archways, has a fresh palette of glowing yellow, blues and deep burgundy, with hand-painted murals, walnut timber and tiled details, and capacity has almost doubled thanks to the addition of an outdoor dining space. Vin-Cenzo’s is now open at 174 Liverpool Street, Darlinghurst for lunch and dinner Tuesday–Saturday, with a late-night supper club menu until 2am on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights.
Grandfather’s
The new Sydney CBD Chinese restaurant and cocktail bar from Andy Tyson, Dan Pepperell and Michael Clift is now open for dinner seven days. Grandfather’s leans towards the flavours of Guangdong and Sichuan, with Clift crediting his own Chinese grandfather for his career as a chef: “I think China has the most diverse and historic cuisine in the world. We consider it to be the mother of all cuisines,” he said.
On the menu, oysters are dressed with Chinese celery vinegar; a Sichuan “husband and wife salad” combines veal tongue and crispy tripe; and a daily assortment of steamed dumplings sits alongside prawn toast and scallop spring rolls. Proteins include classic crispy-skinned birds (chicken, pigeon or duck), wok-fried pork jowl in doubanjiang, and red emperor poached in a fragrant broth with green Sichuan peppercorn.
Tyson’s wine selection stars riesling, with a by-the-glass listing of huge global names (along the lines of Raveneau and Keller), plus on-theme reimaginings of classic cocktails like a sesame Sazerac, yuzu Colada, and Martini made dirty with MSG and Shaoxing wine. The restaurant — the fifth opening from the group behind Pellegrino 2000, Clam Bar and Neptune’s Grotto in as many years — is in the former Long Chim site in Angel Place, with a refreshed interior to suit the new concept.
Vineria Luisa
Alessandro and Anna Pavoni (Ormeggio, A’Mare, Postino Osteria) have taken over one of the inner west’s most recognisable shopfronts to open Vineria Luisa in Enmore. Located within the mauve and pink heritage-listed Marie-Louise Salon, the 70-seat dual-level wine bar is dishing out pre-theatre pastas, gin-based cocktails and a Euro-focused wine list.
Expect a menu featuring Pavoni’s clever blend of old-school Italian standards along with some new-wave takes, including a sizeable snack section to suit its aperitivo approach. Perhaps crostini with chicken liver pâté and bright orange marmalade with Piedmont hazelnuts; or cacio e pepe, transformed into croquettes. There’s also tuna crudo with pickled onion, cannellini beans and green elk; culaccia prosciutto with pickled dwarf green peaches; and buffalo mozzarella with fennel, orange and Taggiasca olives. Pastas include a bright gnocchi with spanner crab, ocean trout roe, herbs and lemon crumble; and lasagne alla Bolognese with slow-cooked pork, beef and veal ragù. There’s also a lamb porchetta, rolled with pork sausages and served with chicory and celeriac purée; a warming wild greens savoury pie with Tuscan cabbage, herbs and whipped goat’s cheese that hails from the Reggio-Emilia region; and salted and fried ling cooked in a rich tomato sugo with sultanas and pine nuts, for something more hearty.
Loulou Martin Place
Above the Martin Place Metro station, Loulou has finally welcomed diners into its 175-seat Frenchy-chic bistro. Following in the tradition of the Milsons Point flagship, the bistro, bar, boulangerie and traiteur is lined with Parisian-style streetfront tables. Menu-wise, expect favourites from across the bridge, like the tower of peppery steak frites; John Dory with Champagne sauce; and créme caramel — alongside new dishes like the charred wagyu frites baguette. From 4-7pm, city slickers can also enjoy $2 escargots and oysters, together with $13 mini Martinis as part of Loulou’s signature happy hour, L’Apéro.
Next door Petit Loulou is a more of a grab-and-go affair serving as a café and patisserie, with counters stacked with Paris-Brests, coconut palmiers, croissants and tarts, alongside rotisserie chicken baguettes, Niçoise salads and golden sausage rolls.
Rovollo
Martin Place has welcomed intimate Italian diner, Rovollo, into its fold, located on the groundfloor of Harry Seidler’s famed MLC Centre. Led by family-run Esper Group – the team behind Surry Hills’ Mille Vini and Rosie Campbell’s – the new 75-seater is a sophisticated affair with ample outdoor seating.
In the kitchen, Zane Buchanan of former Clam Bar and Fish Butchery fame and Matteo Downtown’s Cami Feliciano are bringing simple Italian fare to the city. Think light and bright tuna crudo with a slight kick; pici carbonara set alight in a hollowed-out cheese wheel; and just-pink wagyu rump cap from the grill. As for dessert, an order of the fudgy 24-layer chocolate cake with rosemary-spiked compote is a must.
Caness
Paddington’s main thoroughfare has welcomed Caness, a Middle Eastern meets Mediterranean restaurant and snack bar in a former grocery store. Drawing on tapas-style dining, the 60-seater serves up denizens of the deep blue like saganaki prawns in a tomato and feta sauce; grilled octopus with a caper-studded dressing; and a soft brandade, which sees salted cod and potatoes become a creamy dip. There’s also a take on a sabich with fried eggplant, hard-boiled eggs and tahini atop pita; a beef tartare charged with pimentón and harissa; and a vegetarian shawarma crafted with delicious layers of mushrooms and celeriac. The 80-strong wine list is approachable and a great fit for weeknight sips or a long Saturday lunch, while the cocktail menu features a Figroni – a figgy take on the popular aperitif – and a tomato water-spiked tipple that riffs on gazpacho.
Osteria Mucca
In Newtown, Osteria Mucca is the the penultimate puzzle piece of Paisano and Daughters’ delicious Australia Street precinct. Named to honour the building’s butcher-shop past (mucca meaning “cow” in Italian), the 50-seater offers old-school trattoria charm. With Janina Allende (Pellegrino 2000 and Alberto’s Lounge alum) in charge, Osteria Mucca’s menu brings an “in with the old” philosophy to the plate, with old-world Italian techniques, nose-to-tail cooking and plenty of pasta at the fore. Think pigs’ head sausage across the board, lemony prawn spaghetti lifted with bottarga; pappardelle paired with chicken liver and mushrooms; and spinach and ricotta ravioli swimming in short-rib ragù. Desserts are courtesy of Paisano’s official sweet tooth, Lauren Eldridge, and are likely to feature dolce delights including fluffy ricotta sponge or sweet-wine custards.
Conte Sydney
In the city, Bar Conte has opened a second outpost following its Surry Hills debut. Bringing Negronis and Italian fare to the CBD’s epicentre, owner Raffaele “Lello” Lombardi has spent the past two years living in Italy to garner inspiration. The spacious 160-seater takes up shop on Clarence Street, where you can expect white tablecloths and a more refined menu than the original venue. “We have the largest collection of Italian vermouth, amari (digestifs) and Italian gin ever seen in one venue,” says Lello. This results in more than 40 different Negroni styles and variations, plus a food pairing menu for the lauded cocktail.
Corner 75
In Sydney’s inner east, Jean-Paul El Tom of Baba’s Place and Sixpenny’s Daniel Puskas have joined forces to explore Hungarian food, taking over Corner 75 in Randwick. The old-school Hungarian restaurant has a new lease on life thanks to the new custodians, which keeps the soul of the long-standing Hungarian restaurant alive while putting a clever post-modern, slight Australian spin on it. It has the heart of Baba’s Place and the exacting finesse of Sixpenny, and has brought a welcomed new standard to the neighbourhood’s dining scene.
The atmosphere is jovial and warm, with a memorabilia-laden dining room delivering nostalgic charm; and the wine list is a delightful education on Eastern European drops. Menu-wise you’ll find a classic golden schnitzel; a complex and hearty gulyásleves (beef and potato soup); and a chicken broth with semolina dumplings, which could cure all ills with its comfort. Sides are also a must, particularly the nokedli, a buttery, spiced pasta-like side.
Eleven Barrack
Brent Savage and Nick Hildebrandt of The Bentley Group have debuted Eleven Barrack, situated within a grand former bank which was originally built in 1849. Tableside service, freshly shucked oysters and a strong steak selection are joined by a dining room that takes cues from the grand grill restaurants of New York and Paris. Seafood is also celebrated with oscietra caviar atop fried ricotta dumplings; there’s a raw plate with bluefin tuna and Abrolhos scallops joined by crudités; a terrine is transformed with lobster and leek joined by Champagne butter; and a shellfish spaghetti showcases Balmain bugs, mussels, prawn and spanner crab. A custom-built grill fires up a mighty pork tomahawk with a blood plum glaze, wagyu t-bone, and gold band snapper served with a classic chive butter sauce. Naturally, the wine selection is impressive with a hefty list to compliment anything from a quick seafood snack to a push-the-boat-out steak lunch. The group has also enlisted Pascale Gomes-McNabb and Chris Grinham for the fit-out, which emulates the esteemed dining rooms of Europe.
“We’ve been trying to secure the site at 11 Barrack Street ever since the closure of Seta, as we believe it has the bones to become one of Sydney’s great restaurants,” says co-owner Nick Hildebrandt. “We believe the dining room will have a grandeur rarely seen in Sydney,” says Hildebrandt.
