Few things define an Australian summer quite like seafood, and whether you’re enjoying prawns hot off the barbecue, oysters straight from the shell or grilled octopus by the beach, the right drink can lift even the simplest dish.
“The seafood industry in Australia is so diverse, from tropical to subantarctic, offering options to suit anyone’s tastes and skills,” says former sommelier Rosie Love, who founded Tether Agency, specialising in seafood and wine. But while many of us automatically reach for sparkling or white wine, Love points out that this wide spectrum of flavour and texture invites a broader view of pairing.
Houston Barakat, wine director at Sydney’s Saint Peter, suggests starting with just a small step away from the default. “Dry sparkling rosé, generally speaking, will go with more seafood dishes than it doesn’t,” he says. “It has the brightness to cut through the oil and salt of fried fish and chips or prawn crackers. It has the flavour intensity to stand up to a bouillabaisse, or a red curry with salmon, or even a lightly curried fish pie.” Tasmania’s Bellebonne Bis Rosé from Pipers River is an all-time favourite of his. “I’ve enjoyed it at BYO sushi train with yellowfin tuna hand rolls, with cured salmon and crème fraîche on toast at brunch, and we’ve served it at Saint Peter with Ooray plum and quandong sorbets. Any wine that can serve me well from oysters to dessert is always welcome at the table.”
Once you’ve mastered that move, there’s room to go further, and Love recommends embracing salt. “There’s nothing better than a dirty, briny Martini balanced with a creamy Sydney rock oyster,” she says. Instead of an unexciting sauvignon blanc, she suggests a vermentino alongside some Spencer Gulf prawns, or a classic prawn and iceberg sandwich with a crisp riesling.
The common thread? Freshness, texture and minerality that echo the sea itself. Barakat, too, enjoys pushing the boundaries with seafood pairings. “John Dory liver pâté and Saison sweet vermouth,” he offers. “Certifiably niche, but really, really good.” And what about a fish burger? “An icy cold beer, or a light, bright, slightly chilled glass of COS Frappato from Sicily.”
Six coastal drinks to try
1. Kitajima Sea Salt Yuzushu, Shiga Prefecture, Japan
$60 for 720ml
Established in 1805, Kitajima has been crafting sake for more than 200 years. This Sea Salt Yuzushu combines local sake with four times the usual yuzu and a hint of sea salt. Bright yellow grapefruit and lemon curd aromas lead to a smooth, opulent mouthfeel with candied and salted lemon peel on the finish. Best served chilled with a ponzu-dressed kingfish ceviche or smoky grilled octopus.
2. Never Never Oyster Shell Gin, Adelaide Hills, SA
$86 for 700ml
Evoking Australia’s coastline, this gin infuses Kangaroo Island oyster shells with lime leaf, waxflower, Tasmanian wakame and native coastal herbs such as saltbush. Fresh sea spray bursts from the glass alongside salted citrus and a slight herbaceous edge, leading to a long, savoury finish. Perfect for dry Martinis, paired with oysters.
3. 2017 Marco de Bartoli Vigna La Miccia Marsala Riserva, Sicily, Italy
$115 for 500ml
This Marsala combines modern winemaking with traditional ageing, with aromas of brown sugar, candied apricots and caramelised orange peel. The palate unfolds with stone fruits, walnuts and a hint of tropical mango and papaya. Serve alongside seared scallops and fennel for a savoury contrast to its gentle sweetness.
4. 2024 Vino Volta Sole Bambino Vermentino, Swan Valley, WA
$32
This riper, fuller vermentino shows custard apple and lemon balm on the nose. The palate is rich yet precise, with dry, savoury notes and a hint of lemon meringue-like complexity. Perfect for a crumbed whiting sandwich with shredded iceberg and mayo on a hot summer’s day.
5. NV Bellebonne Bis Rosé, Pipers River, Tas
$40
Made in the méthode traditionnelle by Australia’s “rosé queen” Natalie Fryar, this pale rosé spends up to two years on lees for added depth. Aromas of toasted brioche and redcurrants lead to a palate of strawberries and cream, cranberries, rhubarb stalks and rose petals. Match with crab cakes or salmon with a mustard dill sauce.
6. Archie Rose x Saint Peter Gin, NSW
$84 for 700ml
Archie Rose Distilling Co. has joined forces with the bar team at Sydney’s Saint Peter restaurant to craft a limited-edition gin distilled with fire-dried John Dory bones and native botanicals, inspired by the pechuga mezcal technique. Creamy in texture, it carries bright citrus (Juniper berries, orange and Sunrise lime) with a gentle savoury, briny edge of sea spray and Green Kampot pepper. Serve chilled over ice.
Related stories
Native ad body.
Native ad body.
Native ad body.
