Dinner at +81 Sushi Kappo is $450 PER person, before drinks, placing it among Australia’s most expensive restaurants. Then again, few venues provide a translator for the chef – and here, you’ll want one. There are plenty of questions to ask.
The 12-seat omakase restaurant is from +81 Aizome Bar owner Hisatake Kamori, who’s followed up winning GT’s 2025 Bar of the Year with something even more ambitious. There’s a clear sense of investment – and risk – here, signalling the direction Brisbane is heading: a city growing its presence on the world stage.
At the helm is Tokyo-trained chef Ikuo Kobayashi, who’s resume includes Kyubey, Sushi Kanesaka and, most recently, Sushi Kappo Sekkatei in Hokkaido. He takes centrestage at the ultra-modern, monochrome counter, delivering a multi-course sushi kappo omakase (“to cut and to cook”) experience that unfolds over roughly two hours.
The meal opens simply with a cup of katsuodashi (bonito broth), light yet deeply flavoured, before moving into a precisely paced progression of plates. Sake-steamed abalone arrives with tororo yam, okra, and a dab of abalone liver sauce on the side. The intense, umami-rich sauce, paired with okra’s notoriously slimy texture, makes for a polarising dish – and I happen to love it.
There’s also a sea urchin course I’m still obsessing over. Uni from Hokkaido is mixed through vinegared rice that’s a striking shade of blue, thanks to the inclusion of Icelandic spirulina. This comes topped with a second type of uni, from Tasmania, along with a dab of wasabi.
As for nigiri, Tasmanian bluefin tuna appears on charcoal sushi rice in three iterations: akami (lean), chūtoro (medium-fatty) and ōtoro (fatty). But it’s the kohada, a small sardine-like fish from Aichi Prefecture, that proves the standout. Salted, rinsed and marinated in vinegar, it shows Kobayashi’s mastery of Edomae technique (traditional Tokyo-style sushi).
If the theatrics ever threaten to overshadow tradition, the final savoury course restores balance: a comforting donabe of seasoned Takikomi rice with salmon, served alongside pickles and miso soup. Kobayashi explains, via the translator, that it’s a popular family-style meal and one he ate often, growing up.
At least three beverage pairings are available, including an excellent sake option, curated by head sommelier Sean Lam (Flower Drum, The Ritz-Carlton). There’s also an extensive bottle list, filled with exciting gems from Australia and around the world.
Clearly, +81 Sushi Kappo won’t suit everyone. The textures and flavours lean advanced, and the price tag will inevitably divide opinion. It’s also not the venue for an in-depth catch-up with your dining companion. There’s some soft conversation during dinner, but the atmosphere overall is quiet and focused, revolving around the chefs’ handiwork. Still, that provides plenty to discuss, afterwards, in the adjoining lounge. If you’re willing to embrace it, the experience thrills like few others. And that’s something money can’t buy.
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