Restaurant Reviews

REVIEW Set inside The Star, Black is very much a product of its casino environs, but it plays the hand it is dealt well, offering attentive service in an amusingly blingy room. The Sydney outpost for Melbourne chef Teage Ezard, Black has a focus on steak, and it’s the grill that offers the most satisfaction […]

REVIEW The namesake humble concrete brick favoured by Italian-Australians building their suburban dreams in the ’70s is a trigger for long lost memories at this friendly eatery: of backyard gatherings, family meals, the comfort of home. They’re good memories, and the sense of fun is evident in a floor painted lawn-green, the retro plastic chairs, […]

REVIEW Does your average Bangladeshi listen to R&B, dine with Laguiole cutlery, or take her lassi with a slug of rum? Perhaps not, but that’s what makes Bang such a joy. The space caters to a fun-loving crowd with a sleek tiled bar, communal tables and red neon. An all-Portuguese wine list (a reference to […]

Automata and Silvereye are spearheading a brave new era of inventive and accessible fine dining, writes Pat Nourse. Unleash the snacks.

The home of balsamic vinegar, lambrusco and the Ferrari is the focus of Emilia, where the Modenese cooking is the real deal, writes Michael Harden.

Surry Hills newcomer Master stands out in the field of modern Asian eateries with its often-inspired take on Chinese cooking, writes Pat Nourse.

Scott Pickett’s latest venture, the fine-diner ESP, writes Michael Harden, brings a tasty new definition to the idea of extra-sensory perception.

Josephine Perry branches out from the family restaurant tree with a brasserie of substantial polish, writes Pat Nourse.

Expectation was running high before the doors opened on Lûmé, writes Michael Harden, and it delivers many highs, too, and its share of surprises.

Bennelong is back and better than ever with a definitively Australian menu, stellar crew and fit-out worthy of its architectural origins, writes Pat Nourse.

Yes, it’s outside the CBD and, yes, it’s dégustation-only, but, writes Michael Harden, O My’s originality makes it well worth the trip.

The team from A Tavola serve up a generous helping of homely Italian cooking at Besser that speaks of retro good times, writes Pat Nourse.

Fitzroy newcomer Transformer serves snappily dressed, inventive vegetarian food with cool confidence and unpretentious flair, writes Michael Harden.

It’s cooking with wood but not as we know it. At Firedoor, Lennox Hastie turns out food that surprises in its precision and subtlety, writes Pat Nourse.

Sydney’s latest authentic, ambitious yakitori bars raise chicken-on-sticks to new heights, writes Pat Nourse, and Sydneysiders are eating them up.

There’s technique and theatre aplenty at Heston Blumenthal’s highly coveted ephemeral Fat Duck pop-up, writes Michael Harden.

Café Nice has stayed true to its Provençal brief, but a talented new chef has made this sunny slice of the south shine all the brighter, writes Pat Nourse.

Yearning for an upmarket sushi bar that transports you straight to the streets of Tokyo? Say konichiwa to Minamishima, a hushed temple of Japanese culture in Melbourne’s backstreets, writes Michael Harden.

Panache could be a watchword for Bang, Surry Hills’ first foray into Bengali dining, but good cooking carries the day, writes Pat Nourse.

Tipo 00 declares itself a pasta bar upfront but it’s not business-as-usual modern Italian – it has some tricks up its sleeve, writes Michael Harden.

A new home and new partners make Billy Kwong as good as it ever was but more so, writes Pat Nourse, and the boss is in her element.

The room is hip, the menu savvy and the cooking sublime. So what the hell is Franklin doing in Hobart? Knocking them dead, writes Pat Nourse.

Kappo introduces the traditional Japanese dining style of the same name and takes it to a whole new level, writes Michael Harden.

Two new players on Melbourne’s evolving bar scene show the species is in excellent health. Michael Harden raises a glass to the fresh crop of wine bars.

What happens when an Italian chef turns to the East for inspiration? Asian-Italian dining at its knockout finest, that’s what, writes Pat Nourse.

Taking its inspiration from a bar on Crete, Elyros delivers regionally focused food that’s elegant in its skilful simplicity, writes Michael Harden.

Mitch Orr’s border-crossing cuisine combined with front-of-house charm make inner-east newcomer Acme easy to like, writes Pat Nourse.

A sassy laneway restaurant brings the magic of modern Peruvian cuisine to Melburnians, writes Michael Harden.

Chef Luke Powell has trained his exacting skills on platters of wood-fired goodness at LP’s Quality Meats, writes Pat Nourse. Bring a posse.

Named for his favourite children’s author, Ryan Flaherty’s new restaurant, Mister Jennings, mixes nostalgia and fun, writes Michael Harden.

Guillaume Brahimi’s move from the Opera House hasn’t taken the wind out of his sails and his clientele have much to sing about, writes Pat Nourse.

REVIEW Dining at this McLaren Vale restaurant can take longer than expected, but it’s not that service is tardy – quite the opposite. Approachable waitstaff, led by Sarah Hollway, pay close attention to detail. It’s the 230-plus gins and rich wine offering that can cause delays. Fortunately if you linger too long in the cellar, […]

REVIEW Maximilian’s shares lodge-like hilltop premises – and a happy symbiotic relationship – with the reputable Sidewood Estate cellar door. Fittingly, the menu has Sidewood shiraz in the jus of the carefully cooked Coonawarra sirloin, which feels like something north-side from Game of Thrones. The meat is grilled and served with charred cos, a purée […]

A humble McLaren Vale gem.

REVIEW “This restaurant is very Italian,” says our very Italian waiter. So Italian, in fact, that she accidentally announces the price of one of the dishes in euros. It all adds to the charm of this offshoot of star chef Alessandro Pavoni’s more formal Ormeggio. Via Alta means “high street” (check the address), and here […]

REVIEW “Sagra” is Italian for festival, and owner-chef Nigel Ward ensures that every day is a celebration of flavour. An easy-going atmosphere encourages grazing, and the kitchen puts its focus on carefully sourced produce rather than overwrought technique. Surrender to zucchini flowers stuffed with grated zucchini, pecorino, mint and honey. Or, better still, fresh figs, […]

REVIEW It’s right on the water, it’s infectious fun, and it serves top-notch food and drinks. What’s not to like? Attention to detail can waver (you might want to bring your own packet of Wet Ones, for instance), and it may be a little too casual for real comfort in some areas, but the boisterous […]

REVIEW You’d swear the owners of One Penny Red opened a restaurant just so they could put a wine list together. Ask a question about an organic or biodynamic bottle on their 16-page list and an owner will sprint out and convince you to spend double what you’d planned to drop in a restaurant that […]

REVIEW Club sandwiches. Hushed, clubby surrounds. Mature waiters. Tablecloths. Monster isn’t having a bar of it. This is an entirely new kind of lobby restaurant. Just as Hotel Hotel celebrates Canberra at its most creative, with wild design and a vigorous engagement with the arts scene, Monster puts a spotlight on the region’s produce. Three […]

REVIEW This is the local Italian that you wish was around the corner – buzzy, fast and fun. We’re here for the pizza. It’s good. Very good. Thin, blistered crust, classic Neapolitan style judiciously topped with quality ingredients. The Diavola, for example, eschews the standard sliced salami for splashes of hot ‘nduja floating on tomato […]

REVIEW Even if you don’t book a seaplane, or arrive by yacht, the trek needed to reach this secluded Hawkesbury River boatshed turned historic restaurant reaps unexpected rewards. Where else can one savour pitch-perfect entrées such as figs served with burrata and pea juice, or Moreton Bay bugs napped with lemon hollandaise, under the gaze […]

REVIEW The words “charcoal chicken, sesame yoghurt” don’t really scream izakaya, but this is Cho Cho San, that charcoal is binchotan and the chicken in question – flesh juicy, skin crackled – is rounded out with pickled ginger and splashes of soy. Sit at the concrete bar with a mix of inner-city types and locals, […]

REVIEW There are few more magical approaches to a restaurant in Australia than the short, sweet ride across the Hawkesbury to berth at this river-locked landmark. As the water laps and sucks at the stones beneath the louvred windows running the length of the long, airy room, diners poke and prod at the small arrangements […]

REVIEW Alpha is a modern sort of Greek restaurant, make no mistake, but the Hellenic references in the look (not least the formidable fresco-andcolumns touches) make it very clear which end of the Med you’re visiting. Though staff stumble a little, the greetings are warm and there’s cheer  when hot pita and taramasalata hit the […]

REVIEW Quirky Moga is the Japanese version of the neighbourhood bistro everyone wants to find at the end of their street. There’s a sushi conveyor in a wood-panelled backroom with posters of 1920s moga (modern girls), but the garden terrace, with paper lanterns and timber screens, is an even more congenial spot to raise a […]

REVIEW Pork cheek pressé, duck rillettes, duck ballotine and a chunky rustic pork terrine – all presented simply with buttery house brioche, croûtons, cornichons and fig chutney for an entrée. Add in a glass of Provençal rosé, say, or a bottle from Alsace-born chef Romain Bapst’s homeland (the French-leaning list fields a strong selection of […]

REVIEW Zanzibar might not possess a panoramic view of the relaxed coastal town of Merimbula, but diners feel the breezy vibe nonetheless. It could come courtesy of pristine local ingredients, many of them plucked from nearby waters, or simply via the charm of hostess Renée Loftus. On the plate, though, it’s more about big-city polish, […]

REVIEW There’s a touch of garden-shed chic about Tomah Gardens restaurant, but that’s half the charm of a rustic space that’s furnished with upcycled tables and chairs and a pot-bellied fireplace. It’s comfortable, which is just as well, because after the drive you’ll want to settle in and enjoy the view and a menu of […]

REVIEW There are admirable people who embrace farm-to-fork dining to reduce the emissions created by transporting foodstuffs. Chef Andy Crestani adopts farm-to-fork principles to ensure his dishes are fresher, more nutritious and infinitely more flavoursome. Conveniently, much of his produce comes from the Robert Stein vineyard estate on which the restaurant sits. Old World pigs […]

REVIEW Take a seat on the covered outdoor balcony or in the Eastern-inspired dining room and enjoy the cooling sea breeze, perhaps with a chilled glass of sake or a spice-friendly wine from a succinct, well-considered list. You may need a refreshing beverage or two, as Spice Bar lives up to its name. It specialises […]

REVIEW Don’t let the laid-back vibe of this coastal restaurant fool you. It delivers great food, a compelling wine list offering drops from Australia and beyond as well as outstanding service from switched-on, likeable staff. A table on the footpath captures sea breezes, while inside, the open kitchen and bearded bartenders shaking cocktails create buzz […]

REVIEW There’s lots going on at Saint Crispin. The interior is straightforward – the timber-floored room has dark tones, brass finishes and a glossy bar – but the kitchen works hard for its money. Its menu, by executive chef Scott Pickett, includes multiple-course options, plus “little bites” such as Moonlight Flat oysters or pork scratchings […]

Still packing the house after almost 20 years, it’s not so much longevity for which Il Bàcaro should be commended, writes Michael Harden, but more its unfailing class.

REVIEW Locally sourced goat, storied wines from a cellar that holds up to 30,000 bottles, and a kitchen plot bigger than most market gardens. This is the culinary toybox available to chef Robin Wickens. There can be few shorter distances from paddock to plate than at this upmarket country pub in Victoria’s pastoral Western District. […]

REVIEW With a graphic-design degree tucked up the sleeve of his chef’s whites, Julian Hills brings an artist’s sensibility to the kitchen, balancing flavours, texture and pops of colour. And thanks to a smart revamp, Paringa’s interiors now match that contemporary aesthetic. Rich timbers, a black leather banquette and charcoal carpet bring a fresh level […]

REVIEW Hotel restaurants must cater to all tastes and often the result is a menu that neither offends nor delights. The Argus is not such a restaurant, yet it offers the pluses of 1930s hotel dining – the grand entrance, the sense of occasion. Chef David Willcocks reboots expectations from the get-go with a raw […]

REVIEW In a town where reliable beachside eats are still thin on the sand, this bustling multi-tasker manages to do everything from breakfast, lunch and dinner to all-day coffee and wine. Like the airy yellow-splashed interior, the menu is fresh, fun and unashamedly Italian in spirit. Bowls of clams strewn with prosciutto lardons and garlic […]

REVIEW Chicken pâté sushi. It’s not exactly textbook Japanese cooking, doubly so when deep-fried and accented with spicy moro miso. But that’s precisely the kind of open-mindedness that defines Miki’s Open Kitchen, a dedicated – yet decidedly relaxed – tempura restaurant in the wine and surfie hamlet of Margaret River. Tempura parcels of nori-wrapped garfish […]

Monster has the requisite wow-factor but, more than that, it has charm and ambition matched only by its performance, writes Pat Nourse.

In his latest encore, Andrew McConnell slips smoothly from mod Asian to Parisian-style bistro, writes Michael Harden. Luxembourg, take a bow.

Potts Point newcomer Cho Cho San is no paint-by-numbers creation, but rather a free-form rendition of hip Nippon dining, writes Pat Nourse.

Fresh faces in the kitchen and on the restaurant floor give new life to classical bones at Icebergs Dining Room and Bar, writes Pat Nourse.

The bookings system and menu themes may be novel, but the appeal at Prix Fixe, writes Michael Harden, is simply good cooking and great value.

The new Fish Face Dining in Double Bay marks a welcome sea change for marine maestro Steve Hodges and his able protégé, writes Pat Nourse.

George Calombaris’s latest Press Club incarnation is modern Greek meets Aussie kitsch – bold, playful and at times puzzling, but without doubt memorable, writes Michael Harden.

East meets West meets East in the inner north at Northern Light. But, writes Michael Harden, there’s more fun to be had in the simple pleasure of eating the dishes than decoding their origins.

On the banks of the Hawkesbury, Cottage Point Inn’s menu nudges the boat out in a quintessentially Australian setting, writes Pat Nourse.

Two former Jacques Reymond chefs have emerged from the kitchen of the acclaimed master to reboot and restyle the benchmark eatery with playfulness and panache, writes Michael Harden.

Judging by the decidedly different offerings at Moon Park and Danjee, Korean cuisine in Australia is having a moment, writes Pat Nourse.

After making his mark at the Royal Mail, chef Dan Hunter has taken over a new Victorian country classic, keeping the focus on the flavour of the region, writes Michael Harden.

Maurice Terzini’s new Da Orazio Pizza + Porchetta celebrates pork, the pie, and all things Italian in singular Bondi style, writes Pat Nourse.

With promising hospitality credentials, new riffs on classic Chinese and a name immortalised in song, Lee Ho Fook is set to be a howling success, writes Michael Harden.

Marking 25 years on the Sydney fine-dining scene, the latest incarnation of Neil Perry’s Rockpool is set to be this year’s Big Deal Restaurant, writes Pat Nourse.

Channelling the energy and inventive spirit of San Sebastián’s pintxo bars, Bar Nacional is a welcome culinary light in Docklands, writes Michael Harden.

A festival of great ideas is executed really well at Sagra, East Sydney’s latest Italian. It’s a gem, and the price is right, too, writes Pat Nourse.

Boisterous flavours and an uninhibited menu underpinned by an easy charm lend virtue to Melbourne’s refashioned Pope Joan, writes Michael Harden.

Nomad is an assured début for a young chef and there’s more than a fair suck of the local sauce bottle in the wine department, writes Pat Nourse.

Where there’s smoke, you’re likely to find food fired to charry greatness, the sort of cooking that’s so hot right now, and they get it so right at Ester, writes Pat Nourse.

An assured and talented team matches wine-friendly food to a cellar of great booze and a slick space at new South Melbourne bistro Bellota, writes Michael Harden.

Ambitious, sincere, powerful – the food Scott Pickett and Joe Grbac create at their joint venture, Saint Crispin, is a work of heart, writes Michael Harden.

The only problem with Café Paci is that it’s here for a good time, not a long time, writes Pat Nourse. Get set to taste some of the most original food in town.

REVIEW Once part of a store for Sydney’s dapper gentlemen, this dark room has a men’s club feel, only with rather more buzz and relaxed but efficient service. The wine list is easy to navigate and offers a mix of local and international drops, with plenty of finds under $100 and lots to like by […]

REVIEW Make no mistake: there’s nothing timid about The Town Mouse. Polished terrazzo floors and glossy black tiles keep the noise levels lively, and switched-on waitstaff are just as passionate about a glass of booze-free French grape juice as they are the most obscure natural wine on their menu. They’re right to be so enthusiastic […]

REVIEW With its high-wire act of empty birdcages, China Lane looks at first like the setting for an arthouse film. Inside, the dreamscape continues: is this 1930s Shanghai peopled with coolly confidentMad Menextras? The suited-up lunchers are here for the smart Asian eats and great-value drinks. Duck pancakes, pork sang choi bau, and salt and […]

REVIEW Look past the red neon signage, designer interiors and booming rock music and you’ll see that George Calombaris’s rollickingly popular mid-range offering is really a boisterous Greek taverna at heart. Don’t go expecting hushed intimacy (even when you think it’ll be quiet, the place is still loud and full), but do expect zippy service […]

REVIEW This buzzy bolthole in downtown Newie is a real delight: the vibe is relaxed and the food by talented Chris Thornton is top-notch. Soft pillowy gnocchi is glammed up with sweet shredded Fraser Isle spanner crab, chopped asparagus and fried onions adding crunch and texture. Scope out the fish of the day on the […]

REVIEW Gladioli’s tasting menu peaks with slow-cooked beef from the barbecue, glazed in Granny Smith apple juice and teamed with a rich mix of Japanese mustard, turnips and native succulents, all expertly seasoned. It’s a dish that suits the comfortable, elegant dining room while also reflecting regional produce that chef Matt Dempsey has sourced, hand-picked […]

With his latest venture, Valentino, an expression of his regional roots, chef Riccardo Momesso finds himself right on-trend, writes Michael Harden.

REVIEW Ten years on, this pioneering gem punches well above its nominal café status – even at breakfast, when your omelette might arrive loaded with local spanner crab. As the sun sets, proceedings ratchet up further. Uplights accentuate the narrow, bistro-style room with its raw brickwork and bentwood chairs. A clipped but clever wine list […]

REVIEW This venue has closed. Yes, this is the place. Co-op Dining’s location under a block of serviced apartments is the first of many surprises. Others are revealed at various stages of your dégustation, a shining example of the magic that happens when thoughtful producers and chefs join forces. Snacks arrive at a  rapid-fire pace. […]

REVIEW Bistro Guillaume’s commitment to Gallic tradition ensures the neo-bistro remains one of Crown  Perth’s safer bets. While the prices might be more fine-diner than neighbourhood bistro, all the French comfort classics are present and accounted for: from confit duck leg with peas, speck and spring onions to a rich, benchmark-setting French onion soup with […]

REVIEW Originally it was all about polenta, but Andre’s is now as versatile as any Italian-accented kitchen, left in capable hands while its founder focuses on his new pasta and dessert business. Try the carpaccio, a staple favourite, or the consigli – hand-scrawled recommendations on the blackboard. In moody, muted lighting, with the vibe like […]

Oscillate Wildly’s vibrant food and pace are a winning antidote to dégustation fatigue, writes Pat Nourse, and its tasting menu offers exceptional value to boot.

Originality and style are what you’ll find at Melbourne newcomer The Town Mouse, where intelligent, ingredient-focused food meets good-humoured hospitality, writes Michael Harden.

Seven years at Four in Hand have done little to stem the creative juices of head chef Colin Fassnidge – in fact, writes Pat Nourse, his evolving style continually renders excellence.

With Italian fare as its point of reference, Osteria di Russo & Russo aims high, shoots to thrill and admirably blazes a fresh trail for its neighbourhood, writes Pat Nourse.

Grossi Florentino’s place in Melbourne’s cultural and culinary life has been reinscribed, writes Michael Harden, thanks to a sensitive overhaul.

The talented team from Coda is turning out serious Indian street food in a smart laneway dining room with a welcome mix of seriously good drinks and service to match, writes Michael Harden.

The list of niche wines at 10 William Street is among the best around. And now chef Dan Pepperell’s amped-up Italian menu is as deeply felt as the vinous offering, writes Pat Nourse.

Rosa Mitchell’s honest take on Sicilian food has always packed an emotional punch, and now that she’s back cooking in the CBD, Michael Harden finds himself overcome.