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Home Dining Out Restaurant Reviews

The Woodshed

At the Kin Kin Hotel, a regional fine-diner is putting this small hinterland town on the gastronomic map, writes Elliot Baker.
The Woodshed dining room
The Woodshed dining room.
Address
69 Main St, Kin Kin, Qld

In the rolling hills of the Noosa hinterland sits a majestic 111-year-old pub. Inside, framed memorabilia mount the walls, a cricket trophy from 1923 stands on a piano, and Akubra hats belonging to late regulars hang in tribute. Upstairs, 10 character-filled rooms await those lucky enough to be staying overnight.

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In June, an old shed behind the pub became The Woodshed – a restaurant of rustic elegance, with exposed timber, polished concrete floors and considered design. At its centre, an open kitchen with a roaring fire commands attention.

Here, the kitchen’s commitment to local suppliers and homegrown produce from across the road shines through. It’s there in a standout dish of red claw yabby from Coondoo Claw, a small farm 20 minutes away. The tail is blanched, removed from its shell and warmed in brown butter. It’s paired with a zucchini flower stuffed with more yabby, and a silky sauce of onion, cream and nasturtium flowers.

The Woodshed

Head chef Oscar Holgado trained in Michelin-starred kitchens in London. In his role here, he oversees everything from the accommodation and garden to the pub and The Woodshed. It’s fitting, given he also spent time at Coombeshead Farm: a guesthouse, farm, bakery and restaurant in Cornwall.

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The Woodshed serves a seven-course set menu every Friday and Saturday. Pickling, curing and cooking over fire are hallmarks throughout. For snacks, there are shavings of house-cured pork shoulder; a pork rillette doughnut topped with bacon and apple jam; and a cannoli-like fried potato filled with beetroot mousse and adorned with pickled chilli and pistachio.

Later, fennel from the garden appears as tart with house-made puff pastry, served with smoked crème fraîche, dill and black pepper. Ricotta and broad bean-filled agnolotti is matched with brown butter, toasted hazelnuts and sorrel. Mini wafer cones encase pineapple and marigold gelato, making for a refreshing pre-dessert.

When GT dines, the wine list is still being finalised by the pub’s general manager, Payam ‘PJ’ Choroomi. Pairings are available, but if you prefer a bottle, PJ will suggest a few to suit your palate – perhaps a Ngeringa cider to start, followed by a skin-contact malvasia from Collecapretta, or Hochkirch’s Tarrington pinot noir. It’s an enticing selection, which makes the dine and stay package an easy decision.

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There are currently chickens and pigs on-site, but the team talks of adding more animals. A dam with ducks might even be on the horizon. A greenhouse is also in the works, along with plans to host masterclasses in sausage-making and whole-animal butchery. The dreams are big in this small hinterland town, and there are strong signs they can pull it off.

The Woodshed
69 Main St, Kin Kin, Qld
Chef(s)
Oscar Holgado
Price Guide
$$$$
Bookings
Recommended
Opening Hours
Dinner Fri and Sat

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