A poster boy for ethical food concepts, at Oakridge winery chef Matt Stone serves dishes that speak deliciously of the cause, writes Michael Harden.

REVIEW An idyllic lime orchard and vineyard setting that stretches beyond the galvo pavilion’s windows and dining patio establishes an easy mood. It follows through to a relaxed yet serious regional menu, with chef Dioni Flanagan confidently pursuing exciting combinations. There’s pan-fried tommy ruff fillets on almond purée with a smoked eel crisp, for instance. […]

REVIEW Transformer. More than meets the eye. To wit: an all-vegetarian, occasionally vegan, restaurant eschewing the mock-meat roulette. This refined spin-off to the casual fun times of the 30-year-old Vegie Bar boasts a kitchen intent on creating its own oeuvre of plant-based cuisine. It’s a winner in the aesthetic stakes, the striking old factory smartly […]

REVIEW Malt offers a modern take on fine dining, with old-school charms like a piano player and soft lighting paired with timber tables and rustic décor. The three-storey building, once a 19th-century produce market, adds a sense of history to the dining experience. Begin with half a dozen oysters, served with a dash of apple […]

REVIEW Pull up to Port Phillip Estate and you’re met with a building worthy of a Bond villain. A stark rammed-earth wall with an automated door lures you in, revealing the most stunning coastal view that Red Hill has to offer: vineyard in the foreground, Phillip Island in the distance. The menu is well executed […]

REVIEW Thanks to its sun-drenched deck and chic dining room with views over grapevines, Polperro’s daytime charms are undeniable. But this Red Hill winery’s appeal as an evening destination shouldn’t be overlooked. Come nightfall, the open fire is stoked, tapered candles flicker on every table, and spotlights illuminate the ancient gums that shade the vineyard. […]

REVIEW Expect a warm welcome at the restored 170-year-old flour mill, where you can sit on the lawn, expansive deck or inside the three-level venue. Food is drawn from Kangaroo Island and the Fleurieu, supported by a considered South Australian wine list. Paper-thin kingfish sashimi works well with the bitter flavour and crunch of radish, […]

REVIEW Cossetted away from the Hastings Street crowds, just above the street-level bar in the Sheraton complex, Noosa Beach House has all the trappings of a superior resort hotel – cluey, courteous staff, soaring white interiors, pared-back timber furnishings and a wine list that holds its own. And then there’s the drawcard of chef Peter […]

REVIEW “Ingredient – dash – ingredient.” For some reason, this style of menuwriting often goes hand-in-glove with a particular school of cooking where the natural tastes and textures of said ingredients are subjugated to whichever fiddly technique happens to fascinate the kitchen at a given moment. Maybe all that dehydrating, puréeing and cooking things for […]

REVIEW Behold, a hotel restaurant that cares. From the house-baked sourdough to the understated interior, the whole package at the Sydney branch of Pei is impressively polished. It’s a level of finesse you’d expect with the culinary genius of Mark Best at the helm. His ethos is clearly delineated: the produce shines, the flavours are […]

REVIEW Few Margaret River cellar doors feel as connected to the land as Cullen. It doesn’t hurt that the Cullen family was one of the region’s winemaking pioneers. Or that the building is a warm timber and granite site that sparks nostalgia. While matriarch Vanya Cullen oversees all things vinous (pro tip: arrive early for […]

REVIEW World-renowned wines. A 32-year-long (and counting) run of concerts. A grand two-storey cellar door deep in Margaret River karri country. Leeuwin Estate is every bit the regional showpiece that its international reputation suggests. What this also means, of course, is that it attracts everyone from tourists in tracksuits to minted bons vivants who come […]

REVIEW Despite the name, no one comes away from Cobblestone Lane thinking “quaint”. The food here is masterful and mature – the work of the skilled Heath Smith. The historic emporium in which the restaurant resides has become a temple to both expansive vision and local pride. Bathurst’s high-lifers come here to be wowed, and […]

REVIEW Pity the couples who come alone instead of with a posse. One glance at the wood-burning beast of a smoker and they’ll regret their decision. Pitboss Luke Powell applies exacting technique to deliver down-home barbecued fare meant for a clan. Beef short rib is cooked low (85C, then at 77C) and slow (15 hours). […]

REVIEW Kent Street Kitchen is all about dreamy styling – luscious soft furnishings, generous padded chairs with armrests and magnificent slabs of unclothed white marble tables. It has photo shoot written all over it. Service, too, is polished, and food presentation highly curated, with irregular shapes, petals, flowers, leaves, droplets and foams providing interesting surfaces […]

REVIEW While the front bar of this clifftop restaurant and retreat evokes the property’s history, the terrace is more northern-beaches bling, perfect for savouring the tang of the Pacific. Chef Logan Campbell’s time at Italian landmark Lucio’s shows in a rustic black linguine, rich with prawn oil and cherry tomatoes, and flecked with New Zealand […]

REVIEW With its big-box design – eatery meets funhouse, bar, florist, ice-creamery and café – and popularity with families, the Pavilion can sometimes seem a bit like a restaurant-Ikea by the beach. But the diversity of spaces and dining options, sprawled over three big floors, keeps interest high and appetites piqued. For casual bites, snag […]

REVIEW Set inside The Star, Black is very much a product of its casino environs, but it plays the hand it is dealt well, offering attentive service in an amusingly blingy room. The Sydney outpost for Melbourne chef Teage Ezard, Black has a focus on steak, and it’s the grill that offers the most satisfaction […]

Automata and Silvereye are spearheading a brave new era of inventive and accessible fine dining, writes Pat Nourse. Unleash the snacks.

Scott Pickett’s latest venture, the fine-diner ESP, writes Michael Harden, brings a tasty new definition to the idea of extra-sensory perception.