Modern Australian

Chef Luke Powell has trained his exacting skills on platters of wood-fired goodness at LP’s Quality Meats, writes Pat Nourse. Bring a posse.

Named for his favourite children’s author, Ryan Flaherty’s new restaurant, Mister Jennings, mixes nostalgia and fun, writes Michael Harden.

REVIEW Dining at this McLaren Vale restaurant can take longer than expected, but it’s not that service is tardy – quite the opposite. Approachable waitstaff, led by Sarah Hollway, pay close attention to detail. It’s the 230-plus gins and rich wine offering that can cause delays. Fortunately if you linger too long in the cellar, […]

REVIEW Maximilian’s shares lodge-like hilltop premises – and a happy symbiotic relationship – with the reputable Sidewood Estate cellar door. Fittingly, the menu has Sidewood shiraz in the jus of the carefully cooked Coonawarra sirloin, which feels like something north-side from Game of Thrones. The meat is grilled and served with charred cos, a purée […]

A humble McLaren Vale gem.

REVIEW You’d swear the owners of One Penny Red opened a restaurant just so they could put a wine list together. Ask a question about an organic or biodynamic bottle on their 16-page list and an owner will sprint out and convince you to spend double what you’d planned to drop in a restaurant that […]

REVIEW Club sandwiches. Hushed, clubby surrounds. Mature waiters. Tablecloths. Monster isn’t having a bar of it. This is an entirely new kind of lobby restaurant. Just as Hotel Hotel celebrates Canberra at its most creative, with wild design and a vigorous engagement with the arts scene, Monster puts a spotlight on the region’s produce. Three […]

REVIEW Even if you don’t book a seaplane, or arrive by yacht, the trek needed to reach this secluded Hawkesbury River boatshed turned historic restaurant reaps unexpected rewards. Where else can one savour pitch-perfect entrées such as figs served with burrata and pea juice, or Moreton Bay bugs napped with lemon hollandaise, under the gaze […]

REVIEW There are few more magical approaches to a restaurant in Australia than the short, sweet ride across the Hawkesbury to berth at this river-locked landmark. As the water laps and sucks at the stones beneath the louvred windows running the length of the long, airy room, diners poke and prod at the small arrangements […]

REVIEW Zanzibar might not possess a panoramic view of the relaxed coastal town of Merimbula, but diners feel the breezy vibe nonetheless. It could come courtesy of pristine local ingredients, many of them plucked from nearby waters, or simply via the charm of hostess Renée Loftus. On the plate, though, it’s more about big-city polish, […]

REVIEW There’s a touch of garden-shed chic about Tomah Gardens restaurant, but that’s half the charm of a rustic space that’s furnished with upcycled tables and chairs and a pot-bellied fireplace. It’s comfortable, which is just as well, because after the drive you’ll want to settle in and enjoy the view and a menu of […]

REVIEW There are admirable people who embrace farm-to-fork dining to reduce the emissions created by transporting foodstuffs. Chef Andy Crestani adopts farm-to-fork principles to ensure his dishes are fresher, more nutritious and infinitely more flavoursome. Conveniently, much of his produce comes from the Robert Stein vineyard estate on which the restaurant sits. Old World pigs […]

REVIEW Don’t let the laid-back vibe of this coastal restaurant fool you. It delivers great food, a compelling wine list offering drops from Australia and beyond as well as outstanding service from switched-on, likeable staff. A table on the footpath captures sea breezes, while inside, the open kitchen and bearded bartenders shaking cocktails create buzz […]

REVIEW There’s lots going on at Saint Crispin. The interior is straightforward – the timber-floored room has dark tones, brass finishes and a glossy bar – but the kitchen works hard for its money. Its menu, by executive chef Scott Pickett, includes multiple-course options, plus “little bites” such as Moonlight Flat oysters or pork scratchings […]

REVIEW Locally sourced goat, storied wines from a cellar that holds up to 30,000 bottles, and a kitchen plot bigger than most market gardens. This is the culinary toybox available to chef Robin Wickens. There can be few shorter distances from paddock to plate than at this upmarket country pub in Victoria’s pastoral Western District. […]

REVIEW With a graphic-design degree tucked up the sleeve of his chef’s whites, Julian Hills brings an artist’s sensibility to the kitchen, balancing flavours, texture and pops of colour. And thanks to a smart revamp, Paringa’s interiors now match that contemporary aesthetic. Rich timbers, a black leather banquette and charcoal carpet bring a fresh level […]

REVIEW Hotel restaurants must cater to all tastes and often the result is a menu that neither offends nor delights. The Argus is not such a restaurant, yet it offers the pluses of 1930s hotel dining – the grand entrance, the sense of occasion. Chef David Willcocks reboots expectations from the get-go with a raw […]

Monster has the requisite wow-factor but, more than that, it has charm and ambition matched only by its performance, writes Pat Nourse.

The bookings system and menu themes may be novel, but the appeal at Prix Fixe, writes Michael Harden, is simply good cooking and great value.