Modern Australian

Boisterous flavours and an uninhibited menu underpinned by an easy charm lend virtue to Melbourne’s refashioned Pope Joan, writes Michael Harden.

Nomad is an assured début for a young chef and there’s more than a fair suck of the local sauce bottle in the wine department, writes Pat Nourse.

Where there’s smoke, you’re likely to find food fired to charry greatness, the sort of cooking that’s so hot right now, and they get it so right at Ester, writes Pat Nourse.

Ambitious, sincere, powerful – the food Scott Pickett and Joe Grbac create at their joint venture, Saint Crispin, is a work of heart, writes Michael Harden.

The only problem with Café Paci is that it’s here for a good time, not a long time, writes Pat Nourse. Get set to taste some of the most original food in town.

REVIEW Once part of a store for Sydney’s dapper gentlemen, this dark room has a men’s club feel, only with rather more buzz and relaxed but efficient service. The wine list is easy to navigate and offers a mix of local and international drops, with plenty of finds under $100 and lots to like by […]

REVIEW Make no mistake: there’s nothing timid about The Town Mouse. Polished terrazzo floors and glossy black tiles keep the noise levels lively, and switched-on waitstaff are just as passionate about a glass of booze-free French grape juice as they are the most obscure natural wine on their menu. They’re right to be so enthusiastic […]

REVIEW This buzzy bolthole in downtown Newie is a real delight: the vibe is relaxed and the food by talented Chris Thornton is top-notch. Soft pillowy gnocchi is glammed up with sweet shredded Fraser Isle spanner crab, chopped asparagus and fried onions adding crunch and texture. Scope out the fish of the day on the […]

REVIEW Gladioli’s tasting menu peaks with slow-cooked beef from the barbecue, glazed in Granny Smith apple juice and teamed with a rich mix of Japanese mustard, turnips and native succulents, all expertly seasoned. It’s a dish that suits the comfortable, elegant dining room while also reflecting regional produce that chef Matt Dempsey has sourced, hand-picked […]

REVIEW This venue has closed. Yes, this is the place. Co-op Dining’s location under a block of serviced apartments is the first of many surprises. Others are revealed at various stages of your dégustation, a shining example of the magic that happens when thoughtful producers and chefs join forces. Snacks arrive at a  rapid-fire pace. […]

Oscillate Wildly’s vibrant food and pace are a winning antidote to dégustation fatigue, writes Pat Nourse, and its tasting menu offers exceptional value to boot.