Restaurant Reviews

REVIEW Sage has seen about as many head chefs as Canberra has sworn in prime ministers in recent years. Fortunately, the cosy fine-diner has found consistency with Thomas Heinrich at the helm. He’s pared back the menu and the reliance on foams and soils. And floor staff have dialled down the formality, if anything this […]

Prefer your salad leaves manicured? Jeremy Strode, a chef with possibly superhuman powers of finesse and consistency, is in full flight at Bistrode CBD, writes Pat Nourse.

Two small, well-crafted restaurants have sprung up on either side of the Yarra: a boon for both neighbourhoods, writes Michael Harden.

The lauded team behind Glebe Point Diner have brought their unique brand of rusticity without clichés to Neutral Bay, writes Pat Nourse.

After 35 years in the business, Australia’s pre-eminent Cantonese restaurant has a new menu and even more energy than ever, writes Michael Harden. Peking duck, anyone?

REVIEW Izakaya Den has all the hallmarks of an ideal Tinder venue: a tucked-away CBD location, flattering lighting, local wines and interesting cocktails. There are even barstools that fit two humans side by side with a seat at the bar primo, the tap-tap of knives a pleasant counterpoint to booming tunes. After eight years, the […]

REVIEW Sarti is at least three places in one: a favourite of the long-lunch and night-time crowd, thanks to its open-air rooftop terrace; a modern Italian restaurant serving everyone from quiet couples to family birthday groups; and a buzzy, popular cocktail bar. The décor is 1980s Italian nightclub meets nonna’s house: think glossy black and […]

REVIEW This leafy CBD sanctuary, with its covered courtyard tables and chandelier centrepiece, embodies Spanishenergía, its ambience a clear nod to the chef-patron’s Barcelona upbringing. The flavour-driven dishes are less clearly inflected, drawing as much inspiration from Mediterranean and Queensland bounty as Catalonia. Padrón peppers fire up alongside spicy Manolete chorizo, and Queensland mackerel comes […]

MoVida Aqui, the latest rendering of Melbourne’s modern Spanish powerhouse, could challenge the loyalties of even the most diehard fan of the original, writes Michael Harden.

Hidden in a laneway at the city’s southern end, Berta is a thing of beauty, writes Pat Nourse. It’s about potent flavours and natural textures; about good ideas rather than showing off.

With Ad Lib, Dietmar Sawyere brings another class act to the upper north shore, writes Pat Nourse. It’s clever French cooking without the bistro clichés.

Aaron Turner’s love of the countryside in which he grew up, combined with his beautifully conceived food, is thrilling diners on Victoria’s Bellarine Peninsula, writes Michael Harden.

Bloodwood, with its funky setting and smart food, is a shining light in Newtown, writes Pat Nourse.

Balzari is putting Lygon Street back on the map with authentic regional cooking, a pared-back aesthetic and charming, hospitable service, writes Michael Harden.

A decade on Sydney’s fine-dining A-list is a lifetime in restaurant years, but at Otto, new chef Richard Ptacnik isn’t taking its gold-plated credentials for granted, writes Pat Nourse.

The views at Melbourne’s Sofitel are legendary and now chef Stuart McVeigh is delivering food which gives the glittering vista the respect it deserves, writes Michael Harden.

With simple food done well, Medusa Taverna may be the best casual Greek diner in Sydney, writes Pat Nourse. It’s polished without being pricey and there’s not a fish-net in sight.

Melbourne’s enjoying a gastropub revival as big-name chefs – Mangan, Lambie and Wilson – lend their talents at glammed-up watering holes. It’s pub food reborn.

Although it channels Tokyo, Izakaya Den – with its local wines, basement setting and superb design – seems quintessentially Melbourne, writes Michael Harden.

Fix St James has become an oasis of good eating in the heart of the city, writes Pat Nourse, who finds himself seduced by its gutsy, honest food and wine.

Having eaten his fill of generic “Italian” food, Pat Nourse is excited anew by the distinctly personal, regional path taken by Alessandro Pavoni at Mosman’s Ormeggio.

Michael Ryan’s excellent cooking highlights the strength of local produce and places Provenance among the country’s best regional restaurants, writes Michael Harden.

This new modern Japanese eatery in The Rocks is shaking up Sydney dining, and the bar’s signature Sake Bomb is just the start of it, writes Pat Nourse.

Chef Daniel Southern’s debut at Comme has brought new energy, focus and confidence to the restaurant, writes Michael Harden. Now the food is as sharp as its slick surrounds.

Koots has undergone something of a minor revolution: a new name to reflect its proud Gallic roots, more convivial dining spaces and a revamped wine list, writes Michael Harden.

Map in hand, Pat Nourse navigates his way around a tuna wing at Ocean Room. On the way, he discovers a flash new fit-out and new focus at this harbourside restaurant.

The Deanery’s food is finally playing to the strength of its impressive wine list by tapping into the whimsical talents of former Interlude chef Robin Wickens, writes Michael Harden.

Headed by two former Bistro Moncur chefs, newcomer Blanco brings a fresh combination of levity and exactitude to casual Kings Cross dining, writes Pat Nourse.

REVIEW Rumi’s still got it. It helped introduce share plates to Melbourne in 2006, winning umpteen awards and locals’ hearts ever since. It’s that “where can we go with a group?” place when two mates are vego, one only eats lamb, one’s a pescatarian and one doesn’t drink (hello mocktails – try watermelon with rosewater, […]

REVIEW Now part of a small chain with outposts in Kew and Williamstown, the original Hellenic Republic sits comfortably in its East Brunswick surrounds, its exterior brightened with commissioned graffiti, the inside evoking the Mediterranean coastline. Start off with pita bread that’s perfect with the sharply salty taramasalata or try the kounoupidi, a salad of […]

REVIEW Coda has cemented its place as a CBD stayer. Its basement location has lost none of its industrial-chic edge. And despite the changing of the guard in the kitchen (still overseen by Adam D’Sylva), the dining experience hasn’t skipped a beat. Today, Coda’s Asian accent is more pronounced than ever, making the old buffalo […]

REVIEW Jellyfish has a long, open dining room designed to take full advantage of Story Bridge and river views. Drag your eyes from the vista, though, and you’ll find the array of seafood on offer just as captivating. The daily ‘fresh fish’ menu is the way to go, with as many as 14 species to […]

REVIEW Watch out for the new hit from chef Shaun Arantz, ‘Honey, I Shrunk the Menu’. Now it’s just four entrées and four main courses, plus a charcuterie platter and four desserts. But no complaints, because every dish has been perfected. Arantz marries seemingly incongruous flavours and textures with impeccable grace – snapper with wheat […]

REVIEW This quaint white timber restaurant was a turn-of-the-century ex-Methodist church, tucked down a quiet Penola street. Ten years ago, accomplished floor manager Erika Bowen and her chef husband Simon transformed it into a tidy, efficient dining room, and have remained true to the building’s historic charm. A small but carefully considered à la carte […]

Omertà translates to a union of families, but in Eugenio Maiale’s version it’s first and foremost about the drinking of wine – and sharing some damned fine food, says Pat Nourse.

A classic aesthetic and sober-toned interior belie the novel and forward-thinking cuisine delivered by chef Martin Benn at Sepia, his first solo venture, writes Pat Nourse.

A fine pedigree, good looks, pronounced flavours and a sense of energy and fun have helped Coda deftly parry some great expectations, writes Michael Harden.

It’s the clash of the cornichons, the war of the rosés, a bare-knuckle struggle for soufflé supremacy between Paddington’s L’Etoile and Flinders Inn, writes Pat Nourse.

Unusual vegetables, herbs and flowers from chef Nicolas Poelaert’s own garden are behind the whimsical, sometimes odd and often wonderful food at Embrasse, writes Michael Harden.

Michael Harden welcomes the long-awaited return of MoMo to Melbourne’s dining scene, and indulges in a feast fit for a sultan.

With its Art Deco glory and soaring atrium, Rockpool Bar & Grill is probably the grandest restaurant Sydney has ever seen. It’s a steakhouse, writes Pat Nourse, but not as we know it.

With accomplished food from chef Jonathan Barthelmess and views to spare, it’s clear: Coast may be the finest modern Italian dining experience in the city, reports Pat Nourse.

Andrew McConnell shows he’s still plugged into the zeitgeist with the opening of his latest venture, Cutler & Co. It’s smart, sexy and seriously good, reports a smitten Michael Harden.

Far-flung ingredients and a modern sensibility come together at The Commoner, a uniquely “modern British” outpost that feels as homely as it is cosmopolitan, writes Michael Harden.

Spice Temple’s foray into new Chinese territory presents food fit for the Chairman, writes Pat Nourse.

George Calombaris gives classic taverna dining a baby-boomer twist that’s confident, exciting and rekindles diners’ memories of their Grecian adventures, says John Lethlean.

Spice I Am’s new sibling is a chip off the old block, with some welcome additions, Pat Nourse discovers.

Tendons, kneecaps and skewered thighs keep Pat Nourse going back for more at Azuma Regent.

Quixotic, exotic and yet strangely familiar, Gigibaba has emerged as a diamond in the rough in one of Melbourne’s most unlikely inner-city locations, reveals John Lethlean.

The menu at Etch delivers the oomph and finesse we’ve come to expect from the team at Bécasse, says Pat Nourse, plus a little intrigue. And the soup is a must.

Paul Wilson has made his mark at The Botanical and now brings the same magic to Half Moon in Brighton, a reborn pub where seafood rules, writes John Lethlean.

Stop by The Beresford for an expertly mixed cocktail – or two – and classic Italian fare, writes Pat Nourse.

When struck with a relentless craving for duck, John Lethlean heads to China Tea House. This Chapel Street newcomer is surprisingly impressive, and its Peking duck excellent.

Añada has a winning way with food and wine, not to mention its warm welcome, says John Lethlean, and much of it has to do with its predilection for specialty produce.

Tucked away from the central spectacle of Sydney’s Ivy is the Parisian-chic Ash Street Cellar. It’s the perfect place to enjoy the wilderness of the city at a safe remove, says Pat Nourse.

REVIEW No, Google Maps is right: this venue really does share an address with an office/apartment block near the picturesque Kwinana Freeway. While the location (and irksome traffic noise) isn’t ideal, team Red Cabbage work hard to put guests at ease. The hushed, low-lit room chimes with the restaurant’s fine-dining aspirations, but swatches of Fornasetti […]

REVIEW On the top floor of the historic Strand Arcade, this upmarket Italian eatery reads like a glossy boardroom: long tables, suits, ties and handshakes. The food offering is serious business, too. Parmesan is grated at the table by waiters wearing ties, and if you order more than one, ahem, $42 plates of pasta, they’ll […]

REVIEW A Tavola, “to the table”, is the call to eat in Italian homes, and the table in this instance is the marble communal number that dominates the front dining room at this local favourite, basking in the glow of copper lights and the simpatico welcome of the Italian staff. Home-style cooking is the touchstone, […]

REVIEW Calling Smolt a safe pair of hands is underplaying it. Sure, it has savvy staff, a good-looking room and a kitchen that loves a Mediterranean bistro classic, but this all-day diner is more than just a safe bet. Chef Joseph Koops starts with top-notch local produce, on show in an excellent saffron lumache pasta […]

Every cloud has one, so the saying goes, but Andrew McConnell’s latest venture, Cumulus Inc., seems to have more than its fair share. John Lethlean takes a trip to seventh heaven.

REVIEW In an age where line-ups and street cred can too often rule Melbourne’s food scene, The Grand can seem almost retro. All the nostalgic hallmarks of proper dining are there: comfortable chairs, linen-clad tables, carpeted floors and the rare treat of floor staff who really know how to treat a guest. Though the cosy, […]

Hiding in plain sight on Crown Street, the crack team at Marque are turning out some of the country’s finest food. With a minor facelift, the restaurant sparkles anew, says Pat Nourse.

Café Sopra, at Waterloo’s Fratelli Fresh, has quietly but surely become a Sydney dining institution, and the new Potts Point branch, writes Pat Nourse, continues the tradition.

Roberto Scheriani hits the big time with Melbourne’s power dining set in the CBD, reports John Lethlean.

Lotus’s reputation for attracting the young and fun crowd remains intact with rising star chef Dan Hong’s appointment to the Potts Point bar and bistro, writes Pat Nourse.

Guillaume Brahimi and his team have made their mark at Melbourne’s Crown, reports John Lethlean.

The Burlington at Crows Nest is a boon for North Shore diners who no longer have to cross the bridge to enjoy Matt Kemp’s European brasserie-style dining, writes Pat Nourse.

It’s Middle Eastern, but not as you know it. Maha merges a slick, masculine interior with culinary authenticity for a captivating experience. John Lethlean can’t wait to return.

Perched at the top of Sydney’s elegant Strand Arcade, Pendolino swings between an olive-oil emporium and an impressive Italian restaurant, writes Pat Nourse.

A weekends-only trattoria has put the Victorian country town of Yarck on the culinary map.

The city’s beautiful people are rushing to experience the dazzling new hotel, bar and restaurant complex that’s home to Mad Cow and Teppanyaki.

Melbourne’s Chinatown has a new designer kid on the block. Seamstress has the funked-up Asian food and cool cocktail scene all stitched up.

Don’t be fooled when you meet chef Adam Humphrey at Arras – he may have a thick Yorkshire accent but you won’t find any stodgy stews here.

The reopening of Berowra Waters Inn under the watch of Dietmar Sawyere has resurrected the pleasures of fine dining in a sublime setting.

The Royal Mail Hotel could well be Australia’s most exciting regional restaurant. Book a room, it’s well worth the trip.

The Spanish are passionate about their food, wine and soccer. Head to this North Shore tapas bar for a sample of the first two – and to chat about the third.

It’s not for everyone, but Ray Capaldi’s new-wave molecular gastronomy at Fenix is brave, inspired and often brilliant. Go with an open mind and prepare to be awed.

Hako’s slick new inner-city space has taken the this unassuming Japanese fave from hidden gem to cult-dining status.

Rambutan is a welcome addition to Sydney’s flowering Thai food scene. It’s southern spice with flair and flavour.

REVIEW Residents of the what’s known locally as the People’s Republic of Ainslie don’t take kindly to regime change. Fortunately Pulp Kitchen’s new owner Gus Armstrong maintains bistro doctrine, keeping classic steak frites with bearnaise and a lemon tart with perfectly pitched acidity and exceptional pastry on the menu. Chef Josh Lundy pushes Pulp beyond […]

REVIEW For the already impressive Ten Minutes by Tractor, 2017 was a year of deep investment – and exquisite return. The decade-old dining room, reopened in April in sleek, urbane style: a vision in Japanese marble and heather-grey velvet. The upgrade is everywhere, from service through to Zalto glassware that does justice to the 88-page, […]

REVIEW At Mildura’s Grand Hotel, there’s no shortage of dining options (café, grill, pizza), but nearly 30 years on, there’s still nothing in this Victorian town to match the appeal and rustic sophistication of Stefano’s. In a cellar lined with clothed tables and classical music, Stefano de Pieri marries Mildura produce with Italian brio to […]

REVIEW If you’re not up for trawling the length and breadth of the Yarra Valley in search of its many vinous and culinary gems, Healesville’s Edwardian-era hotel is a good Plan B. Built in 1910, this exceptionally hospitable pub has long paid homage to the valley’s brilliant wine and produce in ways that are anything […]

REVIEW Look around you in the middle of a busy service at Matteo’s and you’d swear you were in a smart Italian restaurant. It sounds Italian, from the name of the place (a Melbourne dining landmark for more than 20 years) to the group of well-dressed Carlton signori enjoying a bottle of Chianti from the […]

REVIEW Longrain still has that “treasure hidden in plain sight” feel, as fresh as the spicy scent that hits you walking through the door. An expansive bar, open kitchen and communal tables add to the convivial atmosphere, and the army of fleet-footed waitstaff delivers slick, attentive service. The menu is a vibrant showcase of South […]

REVIEW Kenzan has deservedly been on every “where to eat good Japanese food in Melbourne” list for decades now. Seats at the sushi bar are scarce because the quality of the seafood and the consistency of the knife skills on display have earned it a fiercely committed following. The dining room with its timber furniture […]

REVIEW Il Bàcaro transports you from the bustle of the Melbourne CBD into a pocket of low-lit intimacy where clean-cut wood and marble surfaces display an array of fine wines, chic thirtysomethings whisper to each other in darkened corners, and skilled waitstaff patrol the room offering excellent old-school service. Classic Italian dishes are given new […]

REVIEW Like the Italian porn-star-turned-politician it was named after 24 years ago, Cicciolina has grown from saucy to stalwart without sacrificing its bohemian side. The wood panelling is worn, the walls adorned with nudes, the loos off the car park. But there’s appealing chemistry driven by grown-up service and a chef who has been here […]

REVIEW Shannon Bennett’s Bistro Vue is like a film set. The “stonewashed” walls are plaster, the timber beams are faux, the lighting a touch too bright, but it’s a warm fantasy. The accordion player is genuine, as is his commitment to “La Vie En Rose” each service. While the theatrics are good fun, they’re held […]

REVIEW Courgette is a nice break from the noisy, bustling style of many restaurants. The clientele is mainly business guests, there’s plush coffee-toned carpet instead of typically unforgiving industrial concrete surfaces and there’s barely any Instagramming going on despite James Mussillon’s classic French technique creating plenty of clickbait. Bug tails are added to seared scallops […]

REVIEW Sails is quintessential Noosa beachfront dining, with an exclusive position, killer view, staggering wine listand waitstaff whose service style is almost as sunny as the weather. The menu is aptly seafood-focused, with smart yet simple dishes like crisp bite-sized tostaditas laden with Mooloolaba tuna, avocado, lime and a fresh green tomato relish. If your […]

REVIEW With its warm service, posh kids’ menu and contemporary interior, it’s no wonder this restaurant is a favourite for multigenerational celebrations. Owner-chef Daran Glasgow’s seasonal fare frequently dips into the surrounding coastal waters to propose something new, such as whiting fillets coated with flavoursome parmesan, a novel take on fish and chips. Char-grilled king […]

REVIEW Me Wah is where Hobart goes when it wants a fine night out. A place where diners can wallow in the luxury of noise-silencing carpet and a white linen-clad table, where ladies are given a seat for their handbags and gents the wine list. Yes, we’re in the rarified world of high-end Cantonese  food, […]

REVIEW Done exploring the Museum of Old and New Art’s subterranean treasures? Head to The Source – its glass-walled dining room features impressive views over the Derwent River and its chef Vince Trim takes inspiration from Tasmanian produce. He arranges an impressive collection of local ingredients in interesting combinations that deftly stop short of complicated. […]

REVIEW Lebrina has been doing its Old-World French/Italian-inspired thing for more than 20 years. And while every city’s got a place where the linen is pressed, the service formal and slightly aloof, the wine list leans classic and glazes burnish meals more often seen in an Evelyn Waugh novel than a new-millennium menu, there’s a […]

REVIEW The water wheel still slowly turns, but the appeal of this 1860s Adelaide Hills landmark goes beyond its old flour mill. Seppeltsfield Winery’s Warren Randall bought the property from Petaluma winery in 2015, reinvented the venue’s dining options and, in 2017, the space itself – renovations include a deck and glass-walled top level. Chef […]

REVIEW Tranquil and relaxed, Jolleys Boathouse takes its cues from the Torrens River at its doorstep. Beneath lofty white beams, diners watch hopeful anglers and earnest joggers as the day’s final rays dapple the water. Polite, unhurried staff present menus highlighting South Australian wines, beers and spirits, plus the best of the state’s produce – […]

REVIEW This style of dining is becoming a rarity in an age when share plates and bistronomy are de rigueur. Restaurant Two has stood the test of time for 17 years, remaining quietly committed to fine dining in contemporary surrounds, devoid of pomp and ceremony. Service has finesse without being finicky, and menus skip trends […]

REVIEW There’s something effortlessly charming about Adelaide’s oldest Italian dame. Waiters are so well versed and experienced – you’ll have a cool glass of vernaccia in one hand and grissini in the other before you’ve even begun to browse the large menu. There’s professional ease here, but also the potential for real fun, despite starched […]

REVIEW Simonn Hawke expresses the spirit and essence of her dishes rather than engaging in food fashion. Hers is food with cultural cred – there’s Italian passion in the brio and boldness of flavours, and French precision in the intensity of reductions and the intricate presentation. Regulars ponder what they’ll have after the exquisite twice-baked […]