Restaurant Reviews

REVIEW Have the sandwich. There’s no arguing with slivers of pan-golden brioche bookending thin layers of smoked wagyu tongue, Gruyère and pickled green tomato. And this being a Nathan Sasi restaurant, the bread, meat and tomato are baked, cured and pickled in-house, and it wouldn’t be remiss to wonder if he hadn’t made the cheese […]

REVIEW Surry Hills swagger permeates this modern Chinese newcomer. Friendly, confident staff move through the whitewashed, two-storey space to the booming sounds of Metallica and Biggie, and tables are filled equally by the hospitality crew and the CBD crowd. The volume’s been dialled up on the menu, too. Puffed beef tendons dusted with kombu salt […]

REVIEW An apartment-block courtyard might not seem like the most soigné setting for a restaurant, but this complex is called the Casba, and you don’t have to squint too hard before the palms and pond seem simpático with a menu rich in dates and cumin. Israel is the inspiration for Michael Rantissi’s cooking both here […]

REVIEW Kensington Street bears the hallmarks of a restaurant rolled out by a chef with a lot of other restaurants. That chef is Jason Atherton, the most successful of Gordon Ramsay’s protégés, captivating diners with gleaming fit-outs, smart-casual dining and big, inclusive menus in London, Hong Kong, Manhattan and now Chippendale. Some attempts at local […]

REVIEW “DINE DRINK DANCE” reads the motto on the Harpoon Harry website, just in case the name didn’t already alert would-be customers to the fact that this probably isn’t the place to bring nonagenarian relatives or the otherwise infirm. If James Brown’s design for this glammed-up pub dining room, bold of tile and capital of […]

REVIEW What’s a restaurant like you doing in a place like this? Not to besmirch the good name of Pakenham, but the Mill is an oasis of finely tuned restaurant values in a ‘hood where pizza joints and chicken shops rule the roost. The upmarket breakfast/brunch zone goes haute at night, when a menu from […]

REVIEW It’s a Fitzroy dining landmark, but Ladro still pushes a welcome combination of tradition and surprise. A pancetta and pear bruschetta is an inspired entrée, polenta chips with Gorgonzola sauce hit all the right spots and precision-charred Black Angus scotch fillet with horseradish and  Volcanic salt is even better with triple-cooked potatoes. But Ladro’s […]

REVIEW Behind the red front door, there’s a deli brimming with cured meats, cheese and tinned seafood. You’ll be perfectly content poised at the counter here, hefty mortadella sandwich in one hand, house-canned Martini in the other; however, it’s only one of your options. Climb the stairs and you’ll find the bistro, where Allie Webb […]

REVIEW What was once Café Nice is now owned by the group that owns Ananas, the brasserie that’s currently moving from The Rocks to Darling Harbour, so pineapple lamps have been added to the bright, bold Riviera-inspired décor and the menu isn’t so strictly Provençale. Bistro classics such as buttery escargots and mussels in white […]

REVIEW Over two decades, team Boathouse has built an enviable stable of suppliers to ensure that its sourcing of seafood is second to none. Nowhere is that more obvious than in sparkling plate of rock and Pacific oysters plucked from around the country, shucked to order, set on ice, paired with impeccable mignonette, lemon, rye […]

REVIEW At Woollahra’s favourite luxed-up French canteen, the classics never fall out of fashion. Twenty years and more than a few steak frites down the track, the Thonet bentwood chairs, Michael Fitzjames mural and linen-dressed tables are as magnetic as ever, and service remains a drawcard. The signature dishes, a little more Larousse than Passard,  […]

REVIEW Is it a bar? Is it a bird? A restaurant? An aeroplane? The lighting, the volume of the ’80s pop, the focus on booze and indeed the name say bar, but the quality of the cooking, the attentive and intelligent table service  and the presence of one Analiese Gregory in the kitchen place it […]

REVIEW The Apo is settling into a pleasant groove. This heritage-listed former apothecary is as striking as ever, ancient brick walls offset by cool cement floors, moody lighting and flashes of royal blue, but the service is now pinpoint sharp. That personable touch is needed when negotiating a share-plate menu that reads like Morse code, […]

REVIEW From its neo-teahouse aesthetic to a menu marshalling ideas from across South East Asia, Mamasan is a restaurant in tune with the zeitgeist. Outdoor tables might be perfect for observing Broadbeach’s human circus, yet pride of place is by the pass, where eaters are treated to close-ups of the bustling kitchen. You can almost […]

With the opening of Saint Peter, Sydney chef Josh Niland secures his place among the nation’s finest seafood cooks.

REVIEW On a sunny day, the marquee blinds at the lakeside Terrace Restaurant roll all the way up, which can mean the odd leaf or six-legged visitor landing in your marsanne. No disaster – the smiling, attentive staff will crack a joke about cheeky swimmers before bringing a fresh glass. It’s the way the Terrace […]

REVIEW Escoffier would surely applaud Mayflower’s “classic hotel fare” – lobster bisque, chateaubriand with béarnaise sauce, chicken Kiev – just as he’d commend the plush velvet chairs and large gilt mirrors that transform this hotel basement into an elegant, welcoming dining space. White tablecloths, silver napkin rings and monogrammed aprons echo scenes at the Savoy, […]

REVIEW It might be a simple shack perched atop Port Willunga’s dramatic sandstone cliffs, but the Star of Greece offers more than just flash fish and chips against an idyllic coastal backdrop. Seafood is the core of the menu, with pan-fried calamari strips and beer-battered King George whiting fillets remaining longtime favourites. Barramundi fillet gets […]

REVIEW After negotiating lanes that wind through apple and cherry orchards, you’ll reach a simple-looking shed – inside there’s a handsome, rustic tasting room with jarrah floors and large picture windows. And the big reveal is outside: a steep vine-covered valley, flanked by several decks for dining. Beautiful in summer, the venue is equally enticing […]

REVIEW The ingredients on every one of Aløft’s dishes, Tasmanian treats spanning from woodear mushroom to koji beef, are expertly prepared and married with unexpected Asian flavours in skilful, delightful combinations. Tender sweetbreads are pitch perfect with a bright bouquet of Vietnamese herbs and fried shallot, sharpened by an intense Thai relish. Yellow fish curry […]

REVIEW Technically speaking, Post is a hotel restaurant. But when the hotel in question, Como The Treasury, is a recent Gourmet Traveller Hotel of The Year, expectations are suitably heightened. Post, thankfully, delivers. Based in the space that once housed Perth’s first general post office, this cool room of blond timber, white walls and black […]

REVIEW Meet Petition, a set of three licensed venues within the State Buildings that patrons are free to move between, beverage in hand. While drinkers will want to make camp at the prosaically named Beer Corner and Wine Bar and Merchant, diners are best served at Kitchen, an all-day diner patrolled by upbeat staff that […]

REVIEW In an old limestone building in Fremantle, Kenny McHardy is quietly yet confidently serving some of Perth’s most satisfying food. At the heart of the Manuka Woodfire Kitchen playbook: a fierce commitment to local produce and the use of a wood-fired oven to bring out the best in each ingredient. Roasted celeriac is served […]

REVIEW Assertively flavoured Thai food can be hard to find in Melbourne, which is why the arrival of David Thompson’s street-food chain, in a theatrically decorated riverfront space at Crown, has been embraced with enthusiastic gratitude. The chicken Chiang Mai larp is unapologetically fiery but it’s also balanced, nuanced and served with a side of […]

Not all is as it seems at Nora as it shifts from café to restaurant, but thanks to joyful sleight of hand and the fun factor it works.

With No 1 Bent Street, Mike McEnearney brings his grown-up, produce-driven food to the heart of the city, writes Pat Nourse.

Savoir-faire in the kitchen, savvy service and a seductive free-form take on the French label keep the offering at Ôter en pointe, writes Michael Harden.

At Mercado, Nathan Sasi and his team like to do things the hard way, putting the focus on the craft of the chef, writes Pat Nourse, and the art of flavour.

From sold-out pop-up to permanent digs, Peter Gunn’s Collingwood restaurant has landed fully formed, writes Michael Harden.

The much-anticipated Hubert delivers on the hype. Meet your new favourite fun-filled French-ish bistro-bar extraordinaire.

The new restaurant from team Acme is not a French restaurant, writes Pat Nourse, but there’s beaucoup Gallic inspiration nevertheless.

Grossi Florentino Grill bids arrivederci to tablecloths while turning up the heat on its authentic Italian cuisine, writes Michael Harden.

Potts Point favourite Yellow has boldly gone where no Sydney restaurant has gone before, writes Pat Nourse. Is this the year vegetarian food gets its due?

Aaron Turner has made a triumphant return to the restaurant world and his cooking, at Igni in Geelong, is better than ever.

Nathan Sasi's Mercado has opened in Sydney's CBD, packed with the flavours of the Mediterranean.

Wine takes centrestage at two new Melbourne bars but the finely tuned menus by no means play second fiddle, writes Michael Harden.

There’s no shortage of Heston Blumenthal’s sorcery at his historically inspired Dinner, but the package is all class, writes Michael Harden.

A poster boy for ethical food concepts, at Oakridge winery chef Matt Stone serves dishes that speak deliciously of the cause, writes Michael Harden.

REVIEW An idyllic lime orchard and vineyard setting that stretches beyond the galvo pavilion’s windows and dining patio establishes an easy mood. It follows through to a relaxed yet serious regional menu, with chef Dioni Flanagan confidently pursuing exciting combinations. There’s pan-fried tommy ruff fillets on almond purée with a smoked eel crisp, for instance. […]

REVIEW The name may sound a little pretentious, yet this buzzy venue is anything but. A merging of the Cavalier Supper Club and Justin Lane has created a rambling, eclectic space, which includes a hip rooftop bar offering ocean glimpses, savvy bartenders and mist sprays to keep things super-chilled in summer. It delivers on many […]

Elvis Abrahanowicz’s new and improved rendering of the deli puts the tin in Latin and Martinis in tins. The bistro’s not bad either, writes Pat Nourse.

REVIEW Transformer. More than meets the eye. To wit: an all-vegetarian, occasionally vegan, restaurant eschewing the mock-meat roulette. This refined spin-off to the casual fun times of the 30-year-old Vegie Bar boasts a kitchen intent on creating its own oeuvre of plant-based cuisine. It’s a winner in the aesthetic stakes, the striking old factory smartly […]

REVIEW Start revving your tastebuds as you navigate the cobblestones of ACDC Lane – Pastuso will put them into overdrive, from the first cloud-like Pisco Sour to the last spiced pumpkin and sweet potato doughnut. It’s a smart (and sometimes noisy) space: the neon art, fire in the open kitchen and separate ceviche bar all […]

REVIEW Don’t read this review. It’s best to approach Nora with no expectations, eyes (and mouth) wide open. There is no menu. Diners are told there will be 12 courses and some snacks, best appreciated with Nora’s hand-picked – and sometimes hand-pickled – drinks, or try your luck with the natural wine list. The food […]

REVIEW At the beginning of your multi-course omakase meal at Kappo, a waiter will bring a tray of chopsticks, each pair a different style, and ask you to pick which you’d like to use. A similar choice of ceramic sake cup will be offered if you’ve chosen to match sake with some of the dishes […]

Anchovy has hit its stride and, writes Michael Harden, there’s promise of more exciting times ahead. Blood pudding ahoy.

REVIEW Nunam is a restaurant on the up. Renovations a year or two ago haven’t just brought a fresh décor and soft furnishings, but a new lease on life. Those that haven’t been back since the restaurant’s Nahm Thai days are in for a pleasant surprise, both in terms of aesthetics (Brighter! Sparser! More fun […]

REVIEW Malt offers a modern take on fine dining, with old-school charms like a piano player and soft lighting paired with timber tables and rustic décor. The three-storey building, once a 19th-century produce market, adds a sense of history to the dining experience. Begin with half a dozen oysters, served with a dash of apple […]

REVIEW There are half-bows to Korea – kimchi accompanies fried pork hock and stir-fried mushrooms are braised in a rich soy-based sauce – but Madame Wu mostly looks to China for inspiration. And, in the case of toasty, rice-crusted wagyu brisket, that’s no bad thing. The beef arrives scented with anise in parcels scattered with […]

REVIEW Longtime works its modern Thai brief with verve and vigour. The room is warehouse glam, nicely detailed, right down to the vintage tools strung along one brick wall, and the clusters of large globes hanging among vine tendrils from the ceiling. Among the bar snacks you’ll find a soft-shell crab bao and a fried […]

REVIEW Warning: visiting Julius may prove highly addictive. It’s not just the team’s crisp-based, wood-fired pizze, which always emerge from the wood-fired oven all puffy-edged and nicely charry. It’s also the flirty drinks list – the snappy yet smiling service – and the theatre of Italian dining in a space that skips clichés in favour […]

REVIEW The laneway location, roller-door entry, concrete floors and brick walls all scream hipster hangout – but there’s more than just cool kids at these tables. Service levels can be patchy, ranging from remote to attentive, but razor-sharp pricing and pitch-perfect provincial Chinese fare exert a powerful pull on tribes of all stripes. Note the […]

REVIEW A clean, slightly stark room and neat plywood furnishings are clues to the thinking at Three Japanese. Fussy and complicated? Not here. Instead, an assured kitchen serves food that speaks of clarity and simplicity. Start with the tsukemono plate, a varied collection of Japanese pickles that leads with stepping-stone certainty through a range of […]

REVIEW Source mixes sophistication with simplicity – that’s the impression that strikes you upon entering the restaurant’s stripped-back room. There’s a smart selection of art on the exposed-brick walls, a mix of modern Scandinavian furniture and, out the back, a garden filled with herbs and edible flowers. The staff are welcoming, as are the local […]

REVIEW Pull up to Port Phillip Estate and you’re met with a building worthy of a Bond villain. A stark rammed-earth wall with an automated door lures you in, revealing the most stunning coastal view that Red Hill has to offer: vineyard in the foreground, Phillip Island in the distance. The menu is well executed […]

REVIEW Thanks to its sun-drenched deck and chic dining room with views over grapevines, Polperro’s daytime charms are undeniable. But this Red Hill winery’s appeal as an evening destination shouldn’t be overlooked. Come nightfall, the open fire is stoked, tapered candles flicker on every table, and spotlights illuminate the ancient gums that shade the vineyard. […]

REVIEW Driving to Gembrook, you might expect home-spun country dining options until – like a mirage – The Independent appears. Suddenly, inspired Argentine food is a possibility. Hell, there’s even a small vegan menu. Housed in a refurbished garage with a kitchen garden, The Independent throws down share plates perfect for both a convivial family […]

REVIEW Candles and Edison bulbs provide an inviting glow throughout this former mill, softening its old stone and painted tin walls. Tall tables inside and out are taken by wine bar patrons, while the mismatched chairs at timber tables are reserved for diners in the rear area and mezzanine. Seed’s menu is listed from lightest […]

REVIEW Expect a warm welcome at the restored 170-year-old flour mill, where you can sit on the lawn, expansive deck or inside the three-level venue. Food is drawn from Kangaroo Island and the Fleurieu, supported by a considered South Australian wine list. Paper-thin kingfish sashimi works well with the bitter flavour and crunch of radish, […]

REVIEW Cossetted away from the Hastings Street crowds, just above the street-level bar in the Sheraton complex, Noosa Beach House has all the trappings of a superior resort hotel – cluey, courteous staff, soaring white interiors, pared-back timber furnishings and a wine list that holds its own. And then there’s the drawcard of chef Peter […]

REVIEW The contented diners vying for tempura-battered Moreton Bay bugs and juicy chicken thighs with yuzu honey and slivers of radish may have stumbled up from the casino below. But, truth be told, most are here expressly to dine at Kiyomi. The buzzy venture, sibling to Sydney’s Sokyo, is headed by Nobu alumnus Chase Kojima. […]

REVIEW “Ingredient – dash – ingredient.” For some reason, this style of menuwriting often goes hand-in-glove with a particular school of cooking where the natural tastes and textures of said ingredients are subjugated to whichever fiddly technique happens to fascinate the kitchen at a given moment. Maybe all that dehydrating, puréeing and cooking things for […]

REVIEW Behold, a hotel restaurant that cares. From the house-baked sourdough to the understated interior, the whole package at the Sydney branch of Pei is impressively polished. It’s a level of finesse you’d expect with the culinary genius of Mark Best at the helm. His ethos is clearly delineated: the produce shines, the flavours are […]

REVIEW Few Margaret River cellar doors feel as connected to the land as Cullen. It doesn’t hurt that the Cullen family was one of the region’s winemaking pioneers. Or that the building is a warm timber and granite site that sparks nostalgia. While matriarch Vanya Cullen oversees all things vinous (pro tip: arrive early for […]

REVIEW World-renowned wines. A 32-year-long (and counting) run of concerts. A grand two-storey cellar door deep in Margaret River karri country. Leeuwin Estate is every bit the regional showpiece that its international reputation suggests. What this also means, of course, is that it attracts everyone from tourists in tracksuits to minted bons vivants who come […]

REVIEW Why aren’t more people talking about Nel? In a glam basement off grimy Wentworth Avenue, this restaurant has flown largely under the radar. Chef Nelly Robinson’s eight-course set menu changes monthly and is as eclectic as it is inventive, including everything from Indian and South East Asian flavours to Eccles cakes. You might start […]

REVIEW Chickens and children are as much part of the experience as the food here: there’s a playground for kids, while cows, pigs and chooks are star attractions at The Farm, the restaurant’s grand agricultural, ecological and educational project. Embraced by locals and mobbed by visitors, things can get chaotic, but the floor staff keep […]

REVIEW Despite the name, no one comes away from Cobblestone Lane thinking “quaint”. The food here is masterful and mature – the work of the skilled Heath Smith. The historic emporium in which the restaurant resides has become a temple to both expansive vision and local pride. Bathurst’s high-lifers come here to be wowed, and […]

REVIEW If you can judge the quality of a chef by their terrine, then John Evans is worth knowing. His jamón-wrapped example, studded with Thirlmere chicken and quail, is Impressionist art – a still life with a small loaf of brioche, chutney and tarragon butter. So, too, a salad of beetroot and fig with Binnorie […]

REVIEW There’s a running gag in Agatha Christie novels with characters mistaking her most famous detective for a Frenchman. “Belgian,” says Hercule Poirot, correcting everyone. The same misconception could apply to chef David Coumont, a Belgian native who takes cues from both Australia and Europe for his seafood-rich menu. This elegant restaurant, named after his […]

REVIEW Pity the couples who come alone instead of with a posse. One glance at the wood-burning beast of a smoker and they’ll regret their decision. Pitboss Luke Powell applies exacting technique to deliver down-home barbecued fare meant for a clan. Beef short rib is cooked low (85C, then at 77C) and slow (15 hours). […]

REVIEW Kent Street Kitchen is all about dreamy styling – luscious soft furnishings, generous padded chairs with armrests and magnificent slabs of unclothed white marble tables. It has photo shoot written all over it. Service, too, is polished, and food presentation highly curated, with irregular shapes, petals, flowers, leaves, droplets and foams providing interesting surfaces […]

REVIEW While the front bar of this clifftop restaurant and retreat evokes the property’s history, the terrace is more northern-beaches bling, perfect for savouring the tang of the Pacific. Chef Logan Campbell’s time at Italian landmark Lucio’s shows in a rustic black linguine, rich with prawn oil and cherry tomatoes, and flecked with New Zealand […]

REVIEW With its big-box design – eatery meets funhouse, bar, florist, ice-creamery and café – and popularity with families, the Pavilion can sometimes seem a bit like a restaurant-Ikea by the beach. But the diversity of spaces and dining options, sprawled over three big floors, keeps interest high and appetites piqued. For casual bites, snag […]

REVIEW Set inside The Star, Black is very much a product of its casino environs, but it plays the hand it is dealt well, offering attentive service in an amusingly blingy room. The Sydney outpost for Melbourne chef Teage Ezard, Black has a focus on steak, and it’s the grill that offers the most satisfaction […]

REVIEW The namesake humble concrete brick favoured by Italian-Australians building their suburban dreams in the ’70s is a trigger for long lost memories at this friendly eatery: of backyard gatherings, family meals, the comfort of home. They’re good memories, and the sense of fun is evident in a floor painted lawn-green, the retro plastic chairs, […]

REVIEW Does your average Bangladeshi listen to R&B, dine with Laguiole cutlery, or take her lassi with a slug of rum? Perhaps not, but that’s what makes Bang such a joy. The space caters to a fun-loving crowd with a sleek tiled bar, communal tables and red neon. An all-Portuguese wine list (a reference to […]

Automata and Silvereye are spearheading a brave new era of inventive and accessible fine dining, writes Pat Nourse. Unleash the snacks.

The home of balsamic vinegar, lambrusco and the Ferrari is the focus of Emilia, where the Modenese cooking is the real deal, writes Michael Harden.

Surry Hills newcomer Master stands out in the field of modern Asian eateries with its often-inspired take on Chinese cooking, writes Pat Nourse.

Scott Pickett’s latest venture, the fine-diner ESP, writes Michael Harden, brings a tasty new definition to the idea of extra-sensory perception.

Josephine Perry branches out from the family restaurant tree with a brasserie of substantial polish, writes Pat Nourse.

Expectation was running high before the doors opened on Lûmé, writes Michael Harden, and it delivers many highs, too, and its share of surprises.

Bennelong is back and better than ever with a definitively Australian menu, stellar crew and fit-out worthy of its architectural origins, writes Pat Nourse.

Yes, it’s outside the CBD and, yes, it’s dégustation-only, but, writes Michael Harden, O My’s originality makes it well worth the trip.

The team from A Tavola serve up a generous helping of homely Italian cooking at Besser that speaks of retro good times, writes Pat Nourse.

Fitzroy newcomer Transformer serves snappily dressed, inventive vegetarian food with cool confidence and unpretentious flair, writes Michael Harden.

It’s cooking with wood but not as we know it. At Firedoor, Lennox Hastie turns out food that surprises in its precision and subtlety, writes Pat Nourse.

Sydney’s latest authentic, ambitious yakitori bars raise chicken-on-sticks to new heights, writes Pat Nourse, and Sydneysiders are eating them up.

There’s technique and theatre aplenty at Heston Blumenthal’s highly coveted ephemeral Fat Duck pop-up, writes Michael Harden.

Café Nice has stayed true to its Provençal brief, but a talented new chef has made this sunny slice of the south shine all the brighter, writes Pat Nourse.

Yearning for an upmarket sushi bar that transports you straight to the streets of Tokyo? Say konichiwa to Minamishima, a hushed temple of Japanese culture in Melbourne’s backstreets, writes Michael Harden.

Panache could be a watchword for Bang, Surry Hills’ first foray into Bengali dining, but good cooking carries the day, writes Pat Nourse.

Tipo 00 declares itself a pasta bar upfront but it’s not business-as-usual modern Italian – it has some tricks up its sleeve, writes Michael Harden.

A new home and new partners make Billy Kwong as good as it ever was but more so, writes Pat Nourse, and the boss is in her element.

The room is hip, the menu savvy and the cooking sublime. So what the hell is Franklin doing in Hobart? Knocking them dead, writes Pat Nourse.

Kappo introduces the traditional Japanese dining style of the same name and takes it to a whole new level, writes Michael Harden.

Two new players on Melbourne’s evolving bar scene show the species is in excellent health. Michael Harden raises a glass to the fresh crop of wine bars.

What happens when an Italian chef turns to the East for inspiration? Asian-Italian dining at its knockout finest, that’s what, writes Pat Nourse.

Taking its inspiration from a bar on Crete, Elyros delivers regionally focused food that’s elegant in its skilful simplicity, writes Michael Harden.