This large gorgeous restaurant atop the former Newport Arms owes more than a dash of its sunny elegance and Med-luxe vibe to Merivale's Paddington flagship.
Enter Bert’s and step into a seaside fantasy. One of Chablis and Burgundy and post-lunch Brandy Alexanders, where everything is clothed in linen and the ceilings are made of wicker. This is not a place to do things by halves. The (yes,$125) opener of hand-picked mud crab, dressed tableside with a tomalley emulsion and a lemony mayonnaise, is still essential ordering. But there’s fun to be had around the edges; the toasty fingers of brioche smeared with chicken-fat butter and overloaded with trout roe, for one. Ruffled reginette pasta with red mullet and sea succulents and a pretty mandarin and yoghurt slice show off Jordan Toft’s eye for invention, underlined by a sure touch. With the grill and the Josper oven, he lets good produce lie, elevating it with a few spare details and focusing on precision and timing – properly roasted flathead comes with a brown butter and caper sauce cut with lemon; a blushing duck crown is glazed with quince. Add floor staff perfectly at ease in the setting and Bert’s is a destination to settle into – for a good time, and a long time.
Gourmet Traveller’s restaurant guide gives a yearly snapshot at the best restaurants to eat at right now. The best-rated restaurants, as judged by the reviewers’ first-hand experience, form our national Top 50. The wine star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
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