An ode to the food and style of the Eternal City, Roma is a handsome devil. A Con Christopoulous creation, it’s hard to resist love at first sight, not least because of its greened up piazza-like location between a modern office tower and a 19th-century church and its fabulous illuminated sign, instantly familiar to anyone who’s spent time in Rome.
The attention to detail that follows should really come with a swoon warning, from the geometric metal lattice screening the terrace, to the arrangement of blood red roses on the monumental marble-topped antipasto table, the checked tiled floor, vintage Italian light fittings and pastel-coloured Ginori crockery.
The setting may be a hard act to follow but chef Matt Wilkinson is up for the challenge. With sections dedicated to the likes of pasta, caviar, meat, fish, soup, spuntini, vegetables, cheese, desserts and offal, his menu follows the lead of Roman ristoranti with their famously comprehensive approach. You can also order meat and fish by weight and, from the excellent wine list, do a deep(ish) dive into the winemakers of the often underappreciated Lazio region of Italy.
Highlights abound, from superb, deep-fried snail, garlic and parsley suppli with their crisp coating and soft, rich interior to a textbook version of classic trippa alla Romana, the tripe perfectly tender, the tomato sauce delivering just the right balance of sweet and acid. Offal fans (myself included) could be tempted into a standing ovation.
The pasta list obviously shouldn’t be ignored and includes a brilliant, velvety paccheri alla Baronessa, a deceptively simple combo of chicken livers, mushrooms, white wine and lemon thyme, finished with a dab of mascarpone. Also worthy of attention is the gelati and sorbetti, made in-house and including a dark chocolate sorbetto that channels chocolate mousse with its creamy depth.
A crumbed pork scotch neck lands a little dry, but say yes to a slice of crostata – made by chef Rita Macali (ex-Supermaxi), whose enthusiastically personable husband Giovanni Patane heads the excellent Roma service team – and you’ll be back on track. Other highlights include the carefully calibrated sound levels and the comfort of the seating. Better still, dining here is fun.
Given the immense contribution Con Christopoulos has made to Melbourne’s dining scene over the past four decades (European, City Wine Shop, Siglo, Kafeneion, French Saloon et al), the well-considered and holistic approach at Roma probably shouldn’t come as a surprise. It will, however, come as a delight, ensuring his latest outing an immediate place on the city’s dining radar.
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