Chef extraordinaire Philippe Mouchel returns with a new, finely tuned bistro delivering food of remarkable finesse, writes Michael Harden.

REVIEW Legendary French chef Philippe Mouchel’s career trajectory in Melbourne may appear progressively more casual (from Bocuse to the bistro-y PM24 and Deja Vue), but the sub-title at his latest venture – “Un restaurant par Philippe Mouchel” – represents a reversal of sorts, a declaration of serious culinary intent. An early clue lies in the […]

REVIEW It’s a serious restaurant disguised in party clothes; a third-floor loft cloaking its pretensions with the frippery of a DJ, pool table and retro wallpaper. But once you’ve oohed over the vast warehouse space with arched windows looking over Smith Street, the menu reveals its surprises. A two-speed approach tacks from jazzed-up drinking food […]

REVIEW True to its name, Ôter (“remove” in French) operates in a stripped-back basement space, its central open kitchen the focal point of the room. It has, after a change of chef, also discarded some of the more fancy, sometimes annoying, modern moves of previous menus. You wouldn’t label it traditional French, given the presence […]

REVIEW What’s a restaurant like you doing in a place like this? Not to besmirch the good name of Pakenham, but the Mill is an oasis of finely tuned restaurant values in a ‘hood where pizza joints and chicken shops rule the roost. The upmarket breakfast/brunch zone goes haute at night, when a menu from […]

REVIEW It’s a Fitzroy dining landmark, but Ladro still pushes a welcome combination of tradition and surprise. A pancetta and pear bruschetta is an inspired entrée, polenta chips with Gorgonzola sauce hit all the right spots and precision-charred Black Angus scotch fillet with horseradish and  Volcanic salt is even better with triple-cooked potatoes. But Ladro’s […]

Not all is as it seems at Nora as it shifts from café to restaurant, but thanks to joyful sleight of hand and the fun factor it works.

Savoir-faire in the kitchen, savvy service and a seductive free-form take on the French label keep the offering at Ôter en pointe, writes Michael Harden.

From sold-out pop-up to permanent digs, Peter Gunn’s Collingwood restaurant has landed fully formed, writes Michael Harden.

Grossi Florentino Grill bids arrivederci to tablecloths while turning up the heat on its authentic Italian cuisine, writes Michael Harden.

Aaron Turner has made a triumphant return to the restaurant world and his cooking, at Igni in Geelong, is better than ever.

Wine takes centrestage at two new Melbourne bars but the finely tuned menus by no means play second fiddle, writes Michael Harden.

There’s no shortage of Heston Blumenthal’s sorcery at his historically inspired Dinner, but the package is all class, writes Michael Harden.

REVIEW Transformer. More than meets the eye. To wit: an all-vegetarian, occasionally vegan, restaurant eschewing the mock-meat roulette. This refined spin-off to the casual fun times of the 30-year-old Vegie Bar boasts a kitchen intent on creating its own oeuvre of plant-based cuisine. It’s a winner in the aesthetic stakes, the striking old factory smartly […]

REVIEW Start revving your tastebuds as you navigate the cobblestones of ACDC Lane – Pastuso will put them into overdrive, from the first cloud-like Pisco Sour to the last spiced pumpkin and sweet potato doughnut. It’s a smart (and sometimes noisy) space: the neon art, fire in the open kitchen and separate ceviche bar all […]

REVIEW Don’t read this review. It’s best to approach Nora with no expectations, eyes (and mouth) wide open. There is no menu. Diners are told there will be 12 courses and some snacks, best appreciated with Nora’s hand-picked – and sometimes hand-pickled – drinks, or try your luck with the natural wine list. The food […]

REVIEW At the beginning of your multi-course omakase meal at Kappo, a waiter will bring a tray of chopsticks, each pair a different style, and ask you to pick which you’d like to use. A similar choice of ceramic sake cup will be offered if you’ve chosen to match sake with some of the dishes […]

Anchovy has hit its stride and, writes Michael Harden, there’s promise of more exciting times ahead. Blood pudding ahoy.

The home of balsamic vinegar, lambrusco and the Ferrari is the focus of Emilia, where the Modenese cooking is the real deal, writes Michael Harden.