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The Town Mouse

The Town Mouse, Melbourne restaurant review

Originality and style are what you’ll find at Melbourne newcomer The Town Mouse, where intelligent, ingredient-focused food meets good-humoured hospitality, writes Michael Harden.
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Italian renaissance

Italian renaissance

Carlton, the Melbourne suburb that brought Italian cuisine and café culture to the masses, is enjoying a revival thanks to a new generation of traders, writes Michael Harden. Little Italy’s back and we say grazie mille.
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Tonka, Melbourne restaurant review

Tonka, Melbourne restaurant review

The talented team from Coda is turning out serious Indian street food in a smart laneway dining room with a welcome mix of seriously good drinks and service to match, writes Michael Harden.
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Cumulus Up, Melbourne restaurant review

Cumulus Up, Melbourne restaurant review

For Andrew McConnell, the only way is up, judging by the fun food at his latest venture. Michael Harden ascends to the new wine bar above its famed sibling, Cumulus Inc.
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Hot Plates: holiday eats

Hot Plates: holiday eats

Whether you're heading home for Christmas, staying put or going somewhere new to flee the family, our restaurant critics' picks of the latest and best eats around the country this Christmas have your festive eating and drinking sorted. Happy days.
Rosetta, Melbourne restaurant review

Rosetta, Melbourne restaurant review

Much about Rosetta, Neil Perry’s first Italian foray, is writ large – lavish décor, prices – but it’s the attention to detail and authenticity that make it a winner, writes Michael Harden.
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Last-minute Melbourne Cup celebrations

Last-minute Melbourne Cup celebrations

Left your Melbourne Cup plans to the very last minute? Can't be bothered chilling the Champagne and making those chicken sandwiches? Here's what some of Australia's top restaurants are doing for the day.
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Lupino

Lupino

REVIEW Melbourne has a thing for comfortable Italian, and this self-assured laneway trattoria knows how to deliver the staples. Butter comes in foil, pasta is handmade and the Collins Street suits soak it all up like a wedge of ciabatta in a pool of Nap sauce. Evenings draw a diverse crowd – it’s also the […]
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Bistro Gitan

Bistro Gitan

REVIEW Overlooking the tree-lined Fawkner Park, Bistro Gitan occupies a particularly blessed quadrant of South Yarra where nothing, it seems, could go wrong. Here, little does. The pearls-and-polo set comfortably take to their bentwood chairs and glasses of Perrier-Jouët from the French-accented wine list before entrusting themselves to the Reymond family’s famed hospitality, albeit in […]
The Point, Melbourne restaurant review

The Point, Melbourne restaurant review

Old-school fine dining of the truffle-shaving-at-the-table variety may be making a comeback if Albert Park’s reinvigorated The Point is anything to go by, writes Michael Harden.
Akachochin, Melbourne restaurant review

Akachochin, Melbourne restaurant review

Restaurateur Paul Mathis is back, and his latest Japanese venture is the real deal, albeit one that’s as much Melbourne as it is Tokyo. Michael Harden visits Akachochin.
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Estelle, Melbourne restaurant review

Estelle, Melbourne restaurant review

At the Estelle, two chefs with disparate talents defy expectations of boho Northcote to deliver a dégustation that’s skilful, generous and unpretentious, writes Michael Harden.
Pei Modern, Melbourne restaurant review

Pei Modern, Melbourne restaurant review

Forget the intercity rivalry, writes Michael Harden. In Pei Modern, Sydney chef Mark Best has brought something unique and original to Melbourne’s buzzing food scene.
Circa, Melbourne restaurant review

Circa, Melbourne restaurant review

From the robata grill to the do-it-yourself taco, Circa – the flagship restaurant of the Prince of Wales Hotel – has been reincarnated as a space that’s completely on-trend.
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Vue de Monde, Melbourne restaurant review

Vue de Monde, Melbourne restaurant review

French remains the mother tongue at Vue de Monde, but with foraged beach herbs and kangaroo-hide tabletops, the accent’s now decidedly Australian, writes Michael Harden.
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Union Dining

Union Dining

REVIEW There’s a pleasurably unpretentious spirit to Union Dining, a reminder of that oft-forgotten word, hospitality. Nicky Riemer and Adam Cash’s restaurant road-trips across France, Italy and Spain, evoking bistro-trattoria memories. Start with a rooftop Negroni, before settling downstairs for Riemer’s rustic-leaning offerings, executed with urbane care. Crudo might take the form of kingfish enlivened […]
Rosa's Kitchen

Rosa’s Kitchen

REVIEW Sicily is the clue to everything, wrote Goethe. It’s certainly the key to Rosa’s Kitchen, where the big-hearted cooking of Sicilian-born Rosa Mitchell showcases the island’s vibrant brand of cucina povera. A simple trattoria tucked down a laneway (newcomer Rosa’s Canteen dons more corporate livery for the legal district), it sets the dial to […]
MoVida Aqui

MoVida Aqui

REVIEW Climb the stairs – between downtown office towers and the Supreme Court – and suddenly you’re in an olive grove. The scent of bay leaves drifts across terrace tables, while inside, there’s a happy buzz throughout the big, open venue – proof it’s grown into one of the CBD’s most convivial spaces. From the […]
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Cookie

Cookie

REVIEW The bastard child of Khao San Road and your favourite warehouse conversion, it’s a broad-scale takeover of historic Curtin House’s first floor: part sophisticated beer barn, part Thai cafeteria where the food matches the noise levels blow for blow and hardworking staff focus the  runaway circus atmosphere. Chef Karen Batson has been flying the […]
Bistro Guillaume

Bistro Guillaume

REVIEW Surprises are not on the menu at Bistro Guillaume. The unexpected is anathema to its raison d’être, which is to deliver straight-up French classics in smart surroundings that make the Yarra stand in situ for the Seine. In the wrong hands, it could be a disaster, but Guillaume Brahimi, who regularly visits his southern […]
The Atlantic

The Atlantic

REVIEW For a thumbnail sketch of high-rolling good living, Melbourne-style, swing into The Atlantic, an enormous space lined with floor-to-ceiling windows for prime riverside gazing. This temple of seafood includes a subterranean drinking den, a casual oyster bar and a huge dining room segmented to provide a little intimacy. Slick service doesn’t miss a beat […]
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Dandelion, Melbourne restaurant review

Dandelion, Melbourne restaurant review

A sense of fun enlivens Geoff Lindsay’s Vietnamese cooking at Dandelion. Michael Harden recommends bringing a group, ordering big and rolling up your sleeves.
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Newmarket Hotel, Melbourne restaurant review

Newmarket Hotel, Melbourne restaurant review

The Newmarket is the latest in a family of pubs that have Paul Wilson’s full-flavoured stamp on the menu. Its funky retro fit-out and Cal-Mex food spell good fun, writes Michael Harden.
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Stokehouse reborn

Stokehouse reborn

Melbourne’s landmark beachside restaurant has been given a sexy makeover, with good looks matching great food, writes Michael Harden.
Looking sharp

Looking sharp

With Riccardo Momesso’s contemporary cooking and Joe Mammone’s suave front-of-house style, Sarti is one of Melbourne’s most exciting restaurants, writes Michael Harden.
Supermaxi

Supermaxi

REVIEW Bells and whistles? There aren’t any at this smart neighbourhood Italian restaurant, but that doesn’t stop it having the gravitational pull of a black hole. Rita Macali’s reputation spread citywide last decade with Ladro; now it’s a family affair with husband Giovanni Patane schmoozing the floor with Italian wines and Macali in the kitchen. […]
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On common ground

On common ground

Two small, well-crafted restaurants have sprung up on either side of the Yarra: a boon for both neighbourhoods, writes Michael Harden.
The drum to beat

The drum to beat

After 35 years in the business, Australia’s pre-eminent Cantonese restaurant has a new menu and even more energy than ever, writes Michael Harden. Peking duck, anyone?
Izakaya Den

Izakaya Den

REVIEW Izakaya Den has all the hallmarks of an ideal Tinder venue: a tucked-away CBD location, flattering lighting, local wines and interesting cocktails. There are even barstools that fit two humans side by side with a seat at the bar primo, the tap-tap of knives a pleasant counterpoint to booming tunes. After eight years, the […]
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Sarti

Sarti

REVIEW Sarti is at least three places in one: a favourite of the long-lunch and night-time crowd, thanks to its open-air rooftop terrace; a modern Italian restaurant serving everyone from quiet couples to family birthday groups; and a buzzy, popular cocktail bar. The décor is 1980s Italian nightclub meets nonna’s house: think glossy black and […]
MoVida, mo’ magic

MoVida, mo’ magic

MoVida Aqui, the latest rendering of Melbourne’s modern Spanish powerhouse, could challenge the loyalties of even the most diehard fan of the original, writes Michael Harden.
Good ideas to share

Good ideas to share

Hidden in a laneway at the city’s southern end, Berta is a thing of beauty, writes Pat Nourse. It’s about potent flavours and natural textures; about good ideas rather than showing off.
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Balzari, Melbourne restaurant review

Balzari, Melbourne restaurant review

Balzari is putting Lygon Street back on the map with authentic regional cooking, a pared-back aesthetic and charming, hospitable service, writes Michael Harden.
No 35, Melbourne restaurant review

No 35, Melbourne restaurant review

The views at Melbourne’s Sofitel are legendary and now chef Stuart McVeigh is delivering food which gives the glittering vista the respect it deserves, writes Michael Harden.
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