Chef Daniel Southern’s debut at Comme has brought new energy, focus and confidence to the restaurant, writes Michael Harden. Now the food is as sharp as its slick surrounds.
Koots has undergone something of a minor revolution: a new name to reflect its proud Gallic roots, more convivial dining spaces and a revamped wine list, writes Michael Harden.
The Deanery’s food is finally playing to the strength of its impressive wine list by tapping into the whimsical talents of former Interlude chef Robin Wickens, writes Michael Harden.
REVIEW Rumi’s still got it. It helped introduce share plates to Melbourne in 2006, winning umpteen awards and locals’ hearts ever since. It’s that “where can we go with a group?” place when two mates are vego, one only eats lamb, one’s a pescatarian and one doesn’t drink (hello mocktails – try watermelon with rosewater, […]
REVIEW Now part of a small chain with outposts in Kew and Williamstown, the original Hellenic Republic sits comfortably in its East Brunswick surrounds, its exterior brightened with commissioned graffiti, the inside evoking the Mediterranean coastline. Start off with pita bread that’s perfect with the sharply salty taramasalata or try the kounoupidi, a salad of […]
REVIEW Coda has cemented its place as a CBD stayer. Its basement location has lost none of its industrial-chic edge. And despite the changing of the guard in the kitchen (still overseen by Adam D’Sylva), the dining experience hasn’t skipped a beat. Today, Coda’s Asian accent is more pronounced than ever, making the old buffalo […]
A fine pedigree, good looks, pronounced flavours and a sense of energy and fun have helped Coda deftly parry some great expectations, writes Michael Harden.
Unusual vegetables, herbs and flowers from chef Nicolas Poelaert’s own garden are behind the whimsical, sometimes odd and often wonderful food at Embrasse, writes Michael Harden.
Andrew McConnell shows he’s still plugged into the zeitgeist with the opening of his latest venture, Cutler & Co. It’s smart, sexy and seriously good, reports a smitten Michael Harden.
Far-flung ingredients and a modern sensibility come together at The Commoner, a uniquely “modern British” outpost that feels as homely as it is cosmopolitan, writes Michael Harden.
George Calombaris gives classic taverna dining a baby-boomer twist that’s confident, exciting and rekindles diners’ memories of their Grecian adventures, says John Lethlean.
Quixotic, exotic and yet strangely familiar, Gigibaba has emerged as a diamond in the rough in one of Melbourne’s most unlikely inner-city locations, reveals John Lethlean.
Paul Wilson has made his mark at The Botanical and now brings the same magic to Half Moon in Brighton, a reborn pub where seafood rules, writes John Lethlean.
When struck with a relentless craving for duck, John Lethlean heads to China Tea House. This Chapel Street newcomer is surprisingly impressive, and its Peking duck excellent.
Añada has a winning way with food and wine, not to mention its warm welcome, says John Lethlean, and much of it has to do with its predilection for specialty produce.
Every cloud has one, so the saying goes, but Andrew McConnell’s latest venture, Cumulus Inc., seems to have more than its fair share. John Lethlean takes a trip to seventh heaven.
REVIEW In an age where line-ups and street cred can too often rule Melbourne’s food scene, The Grand can seem almost retro. All the nostalgic hallmarks of proper dining are there: comfortable chairs, linen-clad tables, carpeted floors and the rare treat of floor staff who really know how to treat a guest. Though the cosy, […]
It’s Middle Eastern, but not as you know it. Maha merges a slick, masculine interior with culinary authenticity for a captivating experience. John Lethlean can’t wait to return.
It’s not for everyone, but Ray Capaldi’s new-wave molecular gastronomy at Fenix is brave, inspired and often brilliant. Go with an open mind and prepare to be awed.
REVIEW Look around you in the middle of a busy service at Matteo’s and you’d swear you were in a smart Italian restaurant. It sounds Italian, from the name of the place (a Melbourne dining landmark for more than 20 years) to the group of well-dressed Carlton signori enjoying a bottle of Chianti from the […]
REVIEW Longrain still has that “treasure hidden in plain sight” feel, as fresh as the spicy scent that hits you walking through the door. An expansive bar, open kitchen and communal tables add to the convivial atmosphere, and the army of fleet-footed waitstaff delivers slick, attentive service. The menu is a vibrant showcase of South […]
REVIEW Kenzan has deservedly been on every “where to eat good Japanese food in Melbourne” list for decades now. Seats at the sushi bar are scarce because the quality of the seafood and the consistency of the knife skills on display have earned it a fiercely committed following. The dining room with its timber furniture […]
REVIEW Il Bàcaro transports you from the bustle of the Melbourne CBD into a pocket of low-lit intimacy where clean-cut wood and marble surfaces display an array of fine wines, chic thirtysomethings whisper to each other in darkened corners, and skilled waitstaff patrol the room offering excellent old-school service. Classic Italian dishes are given new […]
REVIEW Like the Italian porn-star-turned-politician it was named after 24 years ago, Cicciolina has grown from saucy to stalwart without sacrificing its bohemian side. The wood panelling is worn, the walls adorned with nudes, the loos off the car park. But there’s appealing chemistry driven by grown-up service and a chef who has been here […]
REVIEW Shannon Bennett’s Bistro Vue is like a film set. The “stonewashed” walls are plaster, the timber beams are faux, the lighting a touch too bright, but it’s a warm fantasy. The accordion player is genuine, as is his commitment to “La Vie En Rose” each service. While the theatrics are good fun, they’re held […]
There’s a timeless appeal in the honest and generous food of France-Soir, the unpretentious, bustling French bistro which has become a bona fide Melbourne institution.
Teage Ezard’s funky and fun Asian spin-off, Gingerboy, goes beyond the usual wok-mongers – it’s Thai, Malaysian and Chinese street fare with a style all its own.
George Calombaris’ The Press Club is not only turning heads, his modern Greek cuisine is turning upside down what we know about feta, olives, oregano and all other things Hellenic, too.
A St Kilda stalwart re-opens with a fresh face and a nostalgic ‘Continental’ menu. It’s Mirka at Tolarno Hotel and its custodian is leading Melbourne restaurateur Guy Grossi.
Nobu Melbourne has arrived at Crown and it’s rollicking good times whether on a budget or a blow-out.
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