Few tasks are trickier than replacing a chef whose name is synonymous with a venue. Particularly one like Brad Cooper, who left Bar Francine more than a year ago to open his own restaurant. But since Cooper’s departure, incoming head chef George Wassif has taken to the challenge with aplomb.
Need a sign of where he’s taking things? Consider his dolmades. They’re stuffed with Australian Bay lobster and Ballina prawn meat, grilled over fire (à la Vietnamese bo la lot) and served with labneh and pickled currants. It’s inventive, cross-cultural, and a prime example of the inspired cooking happening inside this small kitchen.
Adrienne Jory and Rick Gibson’s Bar Francine has been a Brisbane hotspot for plant-forward, pescatarian fare since 2023. Housed in a charming 100-year-old cottage in West End, its vintage tableware, laid-back service and upbeat energy makes it feel like a second home to many locals.
Since taking over, Wassif has focused on seasonal, produce-driven cooking, no doubt influenced by his time at Byron Bay’s Three Blue Ducks. Zucchini, for instance, has just come into season and stars in two excellent snacks. One, a contender for toast of the year: whipped ricotta, just-firm zucchini flowers and a drizzle of saffron honey. The other, an addictive plate of fried pickled zucchini with smoked potato aïoli, nails the balance of salt, smoke and acid. Pair these with something fresh and textural from the all-Australian, small-producer wine list. A grenache blanc from Harrison Wines, or a skinsy friulano from MDI, perhaps?
Larger seafood dishes lean simple but punchy. Pipis escabeche arrive laced with dill and smoked tomatoes, served with toasted baguette for mopping up the hearty broth. Meanwhile, a large fish croquette sits atop a creamy mustard sauce, with lacto-fermented cucumbers providing a burst of freshness. It’s the kind of unfussy food best shared among friends. Desserts follow suit: an airy chocolate mousse topped with olive oil and black salt is a decadent finale and made for sharing.
On a busy Saturday night, there isn’t a spare seat in sight. A few dishes have run out; waitstaff accidentally bump into chairs; and the music is loud and eclectic. But that’s all part of Bar Francine’s charm. It’s more about good times than a formulaic, cookie-cutter experience.
If anyone had doubts about the post-Cooper era, they need not worry. With Wassif at the helm, it’s exciting to see where Frannie heads next.
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