Kristoffer Paulsen
The latest outing from the Conferre Group (Tipo 00, Osteria Ilaria, Figlia, Grana) marks a departure from the Italian script written in their other four ventures. The new kid, Harriot, takes a more pan European path, both in its warm-toned, classic bistro good looks and with chef James Kelly’s elegant cooking that centres classic French technique and fastidiously sourced produce. The combination creates a thoroughly appealing sweet spot where the familiar meets the fresh.
At the base of an office tower in the CBD’s west end, masked from the street by sheer half curtains, Harriot’s earth-toned dining room mixes harlequin tiles, dressed tables, ergonomic banquettes, timber panelling and flattering lighting, bringing a relaxed feeling of being transported to a more convivial world. Ably assisted by smooth service and an expansive, Euro-leaning wine list from former Embla sommelier Justin Howe, the room personifies a safe pair of hands, even before the food begins to land.
The finesse of Kelly’s cooking matches the successful philosophy of Conferre’s executive chef Andreas Papadakis in his other venues; one where refined technique is always in service of great flavour. An oyster, warmed in Harriot’s wood-fired oven is topped with discreetly tangy beurre blanc foam and a dollop of Oscietra caviar while ribbons of shaved cuttlefish loll about in a sparkling duck consommé, aided and abetted by earthy roasted Jerusalem artichokes and slivers of black truffle.
Though the French lean to the menu is most pronounced – butterflied and quickly grilledr ed mullet is teamed with a pitch-perfect, Provencal-style artichoke barigoule – Italy gets a look in too. Unsurprisingly, given the Tipo 00 connection, it’s via pasta, like a spinach tortelli stuffed with confit duck and glistening with sage and duck jus.
The menu’s “all killer, no filler” approach may create a dilemma for the decision phobic, though a not-to-be-missed dish is the blush-pink cubes of raw tuna dressed in a brilliant mayo-like fermented porcini emulsion in an admirably thin, crisp rye tartlet shell. The comfortingly tender pan-fried lamb sweetbreads sauced with a caper-studded reduced chicken stock and finished with sourdough croûtons also demand consideration.
Sourdough reappears with dessert, in the form of a subtly tart ice-cream that’s teamed with Valrhona chocolate, a buckwheat cracker and brown butter. It’s a masterclass of overlapping flavours and textures.
Part of the neo-bistro wave that’s washing across the country, Harriot distinguishes itself with its calm confidence, mad skills and dedication to deliciousness. Lodge it on your restaurant radar.
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