Daniel Joseph
When Venner opened in February, it came with a concept that may have raised a few eyebrows: neo-Nordic. It’s been years since Brisbane last had a restaurant flying that flag (vale Elska) but consider it less a cuisine and more a guiding philosophy. Venner is grounded in simplicity and seasonality – and it does both very well.
No dish sums it up better than the lamb rump. Rosy-pink inside with well-rendered fat, the slices are placed atop a vivid green sauce of cavolo nero and warrigal greens. The same thread flows through to dessert: baked-to-order madeleines are dusted with cardamom sugar and served with a dollop of whipped chamomile cream. Sometimes the simplest pleasures hit the hardest, and this is one of them.
Behind Venner is a trio of smart operators: George Curtis and James Horsfall (co-owners of Milquetoast in Brisbane’s CBD) and Jack Stuart (chef-owner of Boonah’s destination restaurant, Blume). If you look closely, you can spot a bit of Blume DNA. A croustade (tiny tart shell) filled with Pyengana cheddar custard and pickled black walnut could easily have been lifted straight from the Blume playbook.
Most dishes here, though, feel distinctly Venner. Squid and celeriac, cut into noodle-like strands, sit in a smoked ham consommé with Thai basil and cumquat, while raw kingfish is lifted with a bold passionfruit and ajà limón (yellow chilli) dressing.
Sauces, in fact, deserve their own praise. Head chef Jack Burgess (ex-Essa, Milquetoast) and his team turn the offcuts of the restaurant’s malted sourdough into an umami-rich bread sauce that turbo-charges barbecued cabbage. There’s also a brilliant pil pil sauce – creamy and gently smoky – that accompanies crisp-skinned Murray cod.
The room matches the food’s restraint. Lovely old-timey wallpaper lines the ceiling and VJ walls take on a soft pink blush, while an open kitchen brings new life to the old cottage. If you ask me, the best spot to sit is out front, in the afternoon – ideally with a ginger aquavit sour in hand, or a glass from the tightly curated wine list.
In its former life, the space was home to Gum Bistro, one of my favourite places for a daytime visit. There’s something about the light, and the way it streams through the room, bouncing off the walls. Venner taps into that with a Sunday brunch, featuring the likes of ocean trout gravlax on smørrebrød (dark rye), and cardamom buns.
At a time when some restaurants fall into the trap of doing too much – flashy interiors, overcomplicated dishes and sprawling menus – Venner is a welcome reminder that warm surrounds and considered cooking reign supreme.
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