Nomad is an assured début for a young chef and there’s more than a fair suck of the local sauce bottle in the wine department, writes Pat Nourse.

Where there’s smoke, you’re likely to find food fired to charry greatness, the sort of cooking that’s so hot right now, and they get it so right at Ester, writes Pat Nourse.

An assured and talented team matches wine-friendly food to a cellar of great booze and a slick space at new South Melbourne bistro Bellota, writes Michael Harden.

Ambitious, sincere, powerful – the food Scott Pickett and Joe Grbac create at their joint venture, Saint Crispin, is a work of heart, writes Michael Harden.

The only problem with Café Paci is that it’s here for a good time, not a long time, writes Pat Nourse. Get set to taste some of the most original food in town.

REVIEW Once part of a store for Sydney’s dapper gentlemen, this dark room has a men’s club feel, only with rather more buzz and relaxed but efficient service. The wine list is easy to navigate and offers a mix of local and international drops, with plenty of finds under $100 and lots to like by […]

REVIEW Make no mistake: there’s nothing timid about The Town Mouse. Polished terrazzo floors and glossy black tiles keep the noise levels lively, and switched-on waitstaff are just as passionate about a glass of booze-free French grape juice as they are the most obscure natural wine on their menu. They’re right to be so enthusiastic […]

REVIEW With its high-wire act of empty birdcages, China Lane looks at first like the setting for an arthouse film. Inside, the dreamscape continues: is this 1930s Shanghai peopled with coolly confidentMad Menextras? The suited-up lunchers are here for the smart Asian eats and great-value drinks. Duck pancakes, pork sang choi bau, and salt and […]

REVIEW Look past the red neon signage, designer interiors and booming rock music and you’ll see that George Calombaris’s rollickingly popular mid-range offering is really a boisterous Greek taverna at heart. Don’t go expecting hushed intimacy (even when you think it’ll be quiet, the place is still loud and full), but do expect zippy service […]

REVIEW This buzzy bolthole in downtown Newie is a real delight: the vibe is relaxed and the food by talented Chris Thornton is top-notch. Soft pillowy gnocchi is glammed up with sweet shredded Fraser Isle spanner crab, chopped asparagus and fried onions adding crunch and texture. Scope out the fish of the day on the […]

REVIEW Gladioli’s tasting menu peaks with slow-cooked beef from the barbecue, glazed in Granny Smith apple juice and teamed with a rich mix of Japanese mustard, turnips and native succulents, all expertly seasoned. It’s a dish that suits the comfortable, elegant dining room while also reflecting regional produce that chef Matt Dempsey has sourced, hand-picked […]

With his latest venture, Valentino, an expression of his regional roots, chef Riccardo Momesso finds himself right on-trend, writes Michael Harden.

REVIEW Ten years on, this pioneering gem punches well above its nominal café status – even at breakfast, when your omelette might arrive loaded with local spanner crab. As the sun sets, proceedings ratchet up further. Uplights accentuate the narrow, bistro-style room with its raw brickwork and bentwood chairs. A clipped but clever wine list […]

REVIEW This venue has closed. Yes, this is the place. Co-op Dining’s location under a block of serviced apartments is the first of many surprises. Others are revealed at various stages of your dégustation, a shining example of the magic that happens when thoughtful producers and chefs join forces. Snacks arrive at a  rapid-fire pace. […]

REVIEW Bistro Guillaume’s commitment to Gallic tradition ensures the neo-bistro remains one of Crown  Perth’s safer bets. While the prices might be more fine-diner than neighbourhood bistro, all the French comfort classics are present and accounted for: from confit duck leg with peas, speck and spring onions to a rich, benchmark-setting French onion soup with […]

REVIEW Originally it was all about polenta, but Andre’s is now as versatile as any Italian-accented kitchen, left in capable hands while its founder focuses on his new pasta and dessert business. Try the carpaccio, a staple favourite, or the consigli – hand-scrawled recommendations on the blackboard. In moody, muted lighting, with the vibe like […]