REVIEW Make no mistake: there’s nothing timid about The Town Mouse. Polished terrazzo floors and glossy black tiles keep the noise levels lively, and switched-on waitstaff are just as passionate about a glass of booze-free French grape juice as they are the most obscure natural wine on their menu. They’re right to be so enthusiastic […]

REVIEW With its high-wire act of empty birdcages, China Lane looks at first like the setting for an arthouse film. Inside, the dreamscape continues: is this 1930s Shanghai peopled with coolly confidentMad Menextras? The suited-up lunchers are here for the smart Asian eats and great-value drinks. Duck pancakes, pork sang choi bau, and salt and […]

REVIEW Look past the red neon signage, designer interiors and booming rock music and you’ll see that George Calombaris’s rollickingly popular mid-range offering is really a boisterous Greek taverna at heart. Don’t go expecting hushed intimacy (even when you think it’ll be quiet, the place is still loud and full), but do expect zippy service […]

REVIEW This buzzy bolthole in downtown Newie is a real delight: the vibe is relaxed and the food by talented Chris Thornton is top-notch. Soft pillowy gnocchi is glammed up with sweet shredded Fraser Isle spanner crab, chopped asparagus and fried onions adding crunch and texture. Scope out the fish of the day on the […]

REVIEW Gladioli’s tasting menu peaks with slow-cooked beef from the barbecue, glazed in Granny Smith apple juice and teamed with a rich mix of Japanese mustard, turnips and native succulents, all expertly seasoned. It’s a dish that suits the comfortable, elegant dining room while also reflecting regional produce that chef Matt Dempsey has sourced, hand-picked […]

With his latest venture, Valentino, an expression of his regional roots, chef Riccardo Momesso finds himself right on-trend, writes Michael Harden.

REVIEW Ten years on, this pioneering gem punches well above its nominal café status – even at breakfast, when your omelette might arrive loaded with local spanner crab. As the sun sets, proceedings ratchet up further. Uplights accentuate the narrow, bistro-style room with its raw brickwork and bentwood chairs. A clipped but clever wine list […]

REVIEW This venue has closed. Yes, this is the place. Co-op Dining’s location under a block of serviced apartments is the first of many surprises. Others are revealed at various stages of your dégustation, a shining example of the magic that happens when thoughtful producers and chefs join forces. Snacks arrive at a  rapid-fire pace. […]

REVIEW Bistro Guillaume’s commitment to Gallic tradition ensures the neo-bistro remains one of Crown  Perth’s safer bets. While the prices might be more fine-diner than neighbourhood bistro, all the French comfort classics are present and accounted for: from confit duck leg with peas, speck and spring onions to a rich, benchmark-setting French onion soup with […]

REVIEW Originally it was all about polenta, but Andre’s is now as versatile as any Italian-accented kitchen, left in capable hands while its founder focuses on his new pasta and dessert business. Try the carpaccio, a staple favourite, or the consigli – hand-scrawled recommendations on the blackboard. In moody, muted lighting, with the vibe like […]

Oscillate Wildly’s vibrant food and pace are a winning antidote to dégustation fatigue, writes Pat Nourse, and its tasting menu offers exceptional value to boot.

Originality and style are what you’ll find at Melbourne newcomer The Town Mouse, where intelligent, ingredient-focused food meets good-humoured hospitality, writes Michael Harden.

Seven years at Four in Hand have done little to stem the creative juices of head chef Colin Fassnidge – in fact, writes Pat Nourse, his evolving style continually renders excellence.

With Italian fare as its point of reference, Osteria di Russo & Russo aims high, shoots to thrill and admirably blazes a fresh trail for its neighbourhood, writes Pat Nourse.

Grossi Florentino’s place in Melbourne’s cultural and culinary life has been reinscribed, writes Michael Harden, thanks to a sensitive overhaul.

The talented team from Coda is turning out serious Indian street food in a smart laneway dining room with a welcome mix of seriously good drinks and service to match, writes Michael Harden.

The list of niche wines at 10 William Street is among the best around. And now chef Dan Pepperell’s amped-up Italian menu is as deeply felt as the vinous offering, writes Pat Nourse.

Rosa Mitchell’s honest take on Sicilian food has always packed an emotional punch, and now that she’s back cooking in the CBD, Michael Harden finds himself overcome.

Kings Cross landmark The Bourbon has been reborn in a more sophisticated form that conjures the spirit of New Orleans with a riff on the city’s cuisine, writes Pat Nourse.

For Andrew McConnell, the only way is up, judging by the fun food at his latest venture. Michael Harden ascends to the new wine bar above its famed sibling, Cumulus Inc.

A restaurant for the masses? No. The same idiosyncrasy that defined the Bentley – with a touch of marketing savvy – is key to the success of wine bar Monopole, writes Pat Nourse.