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The Woods, Sydney restaurant review

The Woods, Sydney restaurant review

If you go down to The Woods today, you’ll find the Four Seasons has recaptured its culinary mojo thanks to an infusion of new blood from a surprising quarter, writes Pat Nourse.
Water torture

Water torture

Fergus Henderson eschews the detox-retox approach to indulgence and instead maintains a steady rhythm.
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February

February

As Stephanie Alexander heads off on holiday with hungry kids in tow, she’s hoping her vegetable garden survives the heat and pests.
Hot Plates: holiday eats

Hot Plates: holiday eats

Whether you're heading home for Christmas, staying put or going somewhere new to flee the family, our restaurant critics' picks of the latest and best eats around the country this Christmas have your festive eating and drinking sorted. Happy days.
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Rosetta, Melbourne restaurant review

Rosetta, Melbourne restaurant review

Much about Rosetta, Neil Perry’s first Italian foray, is writ large – lavish décor, prices – but it’s the attention to detail and authenticity that make it a winner, writes Michael Harden.
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Best summer sausages

Best summer sausages

We’ve called in sausages from the nation’s top butchers, fired up the barbie and drawn together a team of intrepid tasters to get the grill-down on the 10 best snags this summer.
January

January

Stephanie Alexander takes the Kitchen Garden Foundation story to Turin, receives princely praise and juggles bountiful summer crops.
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MoVida fiesta

MoVida fiesta

Frank Camorra brings the spirit of Spanish Christmas to the table with summery classics designed for sharing, served with a touch of MoVida magic.
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GT’s best dishes of 2012: David Sly

GT’s best dishes of 2012: David Sly

He's made a list and checked it twice. Drum roll, please, for Gourmet Traveller South Australia editor David Sly's 10 best dishes of the year (in no particular order).
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GT’s best dishes of 2012: Gareth Meyer

GT’s best dishes of 2012: Gareth Meyer

He's made a list and checked it twice. Drum roll, please, for Gourmet Traveller Australian Capital Territory editor Gareth Meyer's 10 best dishes of the year (in no particular order).
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GT’s best dishes of 2012: Pat Nourse

GT’s best dishes of 2012: Pat Nourse

He's made a list and checked it twice. Drum roll, please, for Gourmet Traveller chief restaurant critic Pat Nourse's 10 best dishes of the year (in no particular order).
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Favourite cookbooks of 2012

Favourite cookbooks of 2012

We've scoured the shelves, dog-eared the pages – now here is the Gourmet Traveller editorial team’s favourite cookbooks for 2012. Santa, please note.
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Christmas wish list

Christmas wish list

This lucky country already boasts an enviable food and drink scene, but GT’s well-fed restaurant critics see room for improvement. Here, they ask Santa for some more, please.
Christmas condiments

Christmas condiments

Need a final flourish for your Christmas menu? We’ve got you (and your ham) covered with our favourite condiments.
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December

December

Stephanie Alexander has hauled her Christmas tree in from the garden and is busy protecting her stone fruit from possums and birds.
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Last-minute Melbourne Cup celebrations

Last-minute Melbourne Cup celebrations

Left your Melbourne Cup plans to the very last minute? Can't be bothered chilling the Champagne and making those chicken sandwiches? Here's what some of Australia's top restaurants are doing for the day.
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Mr Wong, Sydney restaurant review

Mr Wong, Sydney restaurant review

The latest venture from the Hemmes family is their most ambitious yet, writes Pat Nourse, a grand 240-seater that’s a love letter to the great Cantonese restaurants of Hong Kong.
Going troppo

Going troppo

The culinary traditions of tropical islands such as Vanuatu and the Philippines are celebrated in Peter Kuruvita’s new book.
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The salume revolution

The salume revolution

If you’re looking for an Australian-made cured sausage with the taste sensation that only lactic fermentation can provide, you’re in luck, writes Richard Cornish.
The beauty of the beast

The beauty of the beast

Innards and extremities, says Fergus Henderson, even more than other ingredients, need love and care and understanding – and the same could be said of producing a cookbook.
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November

November

As Stephanie Alexander travels around the country, she learns of new ways to cook with okra, citrus peel, broad bean tops and even monkfish.
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The storyteller chef

The storyteller chef

The first book from Attica chef Ben Shewry is part memoir, part manual and part manifesto, writes Michael Harden.
Kiss the cook

Kiss the cook

Fergus Henderson’s kitchens have been a mixed bunch, from the mad and bad to the lovely and loved.
Kitchen design trends

Kitchen design trends

Design smarts
What’s cooking in kitchen design? Tanya Buchanan explores 10 trends shaping our kitchens today, from dark, dramatic features to breezy outdoor entertaining.
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Magnus’s magnum opus

Magnus’s magnum opus

Magnus Nilsson, chef at cult restaurant Fäviken, has written a big-hearted book about his tiny eatery in the Swedish wilderness. Pat Nourse takes a first look.
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The cook’s ultimate kitchen

The cook’s ultimate kitchen

The kitchen benchmark
As Brigitte Hafner eagerly anticipates her own home kitchen renovation, she considers the key elements that make up a cook’s ultimate workspace – including the kitchen sink.
October

October

Every day brings changes in Stephanie Alexander’s springtime garden – peach and nectarine blossom, and roses the colour of raspberries.
Three Blue Ducks

Three Blue Ducks

REVIEW Chickens and children are as much part of the experience as the food here: there’s a playground for kids, while cows, pigs and chooks are star attractions at The Farm, the restaurant’s grand agricultural, ecological and educational project. Embraced by locals and mobbed by visitors, things can get chaotic, but the floor staff keep […]
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Sokyo

Sokyo

REVIEW Sokyo is different things to different diners. The name fuses Sydney and Tokyo, and for the most part it’s a blazing Harajuku swirl of boisterous flavours. You might start with the kingfish ceviche topped with slivers of potato and a hint of chilli, or be tempted by the tuna on a hot, crunchy rice […]
Red Lantern on Riley

Red Lantern on Riley

REVIEW There’s bustle without the hustle, bite without the skite – Red Lantern manages to be streetwise and sophisticated at the same time. Hoist a Hoi An Julep while contemplating the extensive French and Australian wine list and the Indochine idyll, long marble tables, padded banquettes and Vietnamese bric-à-brac. The entrées are where the true […]
Popolo

Popolo

REVIEW The name translates as “people” and Popolo is a crowd-pleasing affair. Adoring locals, faithful families and the Zegna set all converge here for its exceptional southern Italian food. The pop in Popolo comes courtesy of Naomi Lowry; her cooking is by turns sophisticated, homespun and transporting. Pasta is a highlight, not least malloreddus with […]
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Izakaya Fujiyama

Izakaya Fujiyama

REVIEW We’d call it a quiet achiever if the music wasn’t rocking quite so hard. Izakaya Fujiyama is one of Sydney’s top destinations for Japanese snacks and possibly its best for sake. There’s a world of sake on offer and most of the waitstaff can follow even the vaguest instruction (“I want something to cool […]

Chiswick

REVIEW Named after the gardens it graces, this restaurant has a Hamptons-meets-the-Highlands look that resembles a busy conservatory. Soumak rugs and the open kitchen framed by jars of preserved vegetable jars set the curated-homely tone for Matt Moran’s tribute to garden-to-plate dining. Yes, you’ll see  lamb from the Moran family farm, plus a seasonal map […]
Chat Thai

Chat Thai

REVIEW Chat Thai is at a location near you. Some take bookings, some don’t. The service is efficient, and attentive. The menus are big and embrace many regions, all done well, while the food is fresh and fast. Ordering the pad Thai here is no cop-out: rich, balanced and satisfying, it’s the go-to noodle dish. […]
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And the winners are…

And the winners are…

We’ve made our decisions and folded our napkins. Please raise your glass to the winners of the 2013 Australian Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Awards.
Town

Town

REVIEW It’s such a pleasure to wander through the unassuming downstairs café to discover this wonderful restaurant. The room is similarly low-key and the service understated, placing the focus firmly on the food. Chefs Karl and Katrina Kanetani, whose résumés include Est, Quay and Tetsuya’s, present an impressive seven-course dégustation that draws heavily on local […]
Subo

Subo

REVIEW This is, hands down, the best place to break bread in Newcastle. You wouldn’t know it by looking at the restaurant’s unassuming shopfront, but Subo is a gem. And the bread you’re breaking is local Baked Uprising sourdough with butter, caramelised garlic and chive salt. It’s so good you’ll want seconds, but hey, there’s […]
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Circa 1876

Circa 1876

REVIEW The heritage building is key to Circa’s charm, and its tiny lounge is the place to sit and have dessert as you contemplate history – apple pie ice-cream with granola-style toffee crumb, say, with a Hunter Valley sticky to draw out the apple flavour. The food at Circa is diligently sourced from its kitchen […]
Patricia’s Table

Patricia’s Table

REVIEW Chef Douglas Elder’s penchant for gels, crumbs and creative plating will impress out-of-towners seeking an affordable taste of fine dining in an approachable, family-friendly space. And at $96 for three courses and matching wines, it really is affordable. Lightly battered quail with rich terrine, yuzu mayonnaise, tangy apple kimchi and slaw is an upmarket […]
Lupino

Lupino

REVIEW Melbourne has a thing for comfortable Italian, and this self-assured laneway trattoria knows how to deliver the staples. Butter comes in foil, pasta is handmade and the Collins Street suits soak it all up like a wedge of ciabatta in a pool of Nap sauce. Evenings draw a diverse crowd – it’s also the […]
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Bistro Gitan

Bistro Gitan

REVIEW Overlooking the tree-lined Fawkner Park, Bistro Gitan occupies a particularly blessed quadrant of South Yarra where nothing, it seems, could go wrong. Here, little does. The pearls-and-polo set comfortably take to their bentwood chairs and glasses of Perrier-Jouët from the French-accented wine list before entrusting themselves to the Reymond family’s famed hospitality, albeit in […]
The Survey Co

The Survey Co

REVIEW It’s within cooee of Queen Street Mall, but this laneway bolthole feels coolly out of step with it. Moodily lit with an industrial-chic interior featuring brick, leather hides and brass, there are nooks aplenty to dally in, including a quirky courtyard behind. Even the wine list is character-filled – a “reserve, vintage and obscure” […]
Public

Public

REVIEW If you’re not averse to ants with your salmon or roasted mealworm clinging to stir-fried water spinach, you’ll get plenty of love at Public: big flavours, adventurous pairings and seriously good cooking are top of the menu. An emu tartare with cured egg yolk, served atop lavosh, stands out for its unique taste and […]
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Petite Mort

Petite Mort

REVIEW Double-dressed tables. Fussy compositions on big plates. A chef that loves playing with guests’ food: team Petite Mort evidently missed – or ignored – the memo about contemporary restaurant trends. But for those unmoved by the zeitgeist (no bookings, communal tables, venues that lean more bar than dining room), this bare-brick diner in leafy […]
GT 2013 Restaurant Awards event

GT 2013 Restaurant Awards event

Gourmet Traveller’s team of 60 reviewers has eaten its way from one end of the country to the other to produce the 2013 Gourmet Traveller Australian Restaurant Guide. To launch the new book in style, and to announce our annual Restaurant Guide Awards, we gathered together the nation's finest restaurant talent to celebrate at Sydney’s hot new modern Chinese blockbuster, Mr Wong. Welcome inside...
Press Food & Wine

Press Food & Wine

REVIEW Diners and drinkers are in confident hands at this buzzy wine bar and bistro. The wood-fired grill keeps regulars happy, offal lovers are cheered by the menu, and the wine list is ever evolving, with sherries currently in favour. Downstairs is all high tables and bar stools, timber walls and industrial heritage. Upstairs has […]
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GT 2013 Restaurant Awards winners

GT 2013 Restaurant Awards winners

We’ve made our decisions and folded our napkins. Please raise your glass to the winners of the 2013 Australian Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Awards.
Australian Gourmet Traveller 2013 Restaurant Awards: The Top 100

Australian Gourmet Traveller 2013 Restaurant Awards: The Top 100

This list has been compiled using our star ratings, moderated by our state and national editors. Every restaurant listed in the guide should offer a winning dining experience; any that achieve a placement in the Top 100 represent another order of excellence again. [To check out all of our 2013 Restaurant Awards coverage, click here. […]
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Kylie Kwong on bush tucker

Kylie Kwong on bush tucker

Kylie Kwong has become a champion of native foods, serving up dishes such as stir-fried yabbies with samphire at her Sydney diner Billy Kwong. It doesn’t get any more Australian-Chinese than this.
I, tunes

I, tunes

A restaurant’s choice in music sets a distinctive tone, and at Momofuku, the music is a particular feature. Chef and playlist-dictator David Chang explains why.
Mouthing off

Mouthing off

Peter Gilmore, Tetsuya Wakuda, Neil Perry and other top chefs discuss the challenges facing our restaurants today.
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The Point, Melbourne restaurant review

The Point, Melbourne restaurant review

Old-school fine dining of the truffle-shaving-at-the-table variety may be making a comeback if Albert Park’s reinvigorated The Point is anything to go by, writes Michael Harden.
The neuroscience of taste

The neuroscience of taste

Taste makers
Neuromechanics aside, how do our five taste receptors transmit the phenomenal richness we experience as a meal? Neuroscientist and psychologist Jason Gallate explains.
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How to forage

How to forage

Moveable feast
Foraged foods are enlivening plates at restaurants abroad and at home, but, as Richard Cornish writes, they’re a resource that must be handled with respect.
Cultured butter

Cultured butter

Your churn
Will Studd mourns the demise of cultured butter made from naturally soured cream and vows to gets churning.
September

September

Bold brassicas and bright rainbow silverbeet in generous amounts have been the stars of Stephanie Alexander’s winter garden.
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2013 Restaurant Awards nominees

2013 Restaurant Awards nominees

If you’re an adventurous diner, times have never been better, and we’d like to think the places and faces shortlisted for this year’s GT Restaurant Awards are doing their bit. The winners will be announced at the awards ceremony that launches our 2013 Australian Restaurant Guide next month, along with the big one: Restaurant of the Year. We hope you’ll join us in September.
Popolo, Sydney restaurant review

Popolo, Sydney restaurant review

Sydney’s hottest new diner, Popolo, in Rushcutters Bay, is Italian food by and for the people – and the people are loving it, writes Pat Nourse.
Akachochin, Melbourne restaurant review

Akachochin, Melbourne restaurant review

Restaurateur Paul Mathis is back, and his latest Japanese venture is the real deal, albeit one that’s as much Melbourne as it is Tokyo. Michael Harden visits Akachochin.
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Sunny side up

Sunny side up

No other meal is more important, so get up and at ’em: 26 of the most exciting breakfast experiences in the country, in no particular order. Candied bacon, anyone?
August

August

Stephanie Alexander anticipates a farewell to winter as the bulbs in her garden begin to flourish.
How to enjoy oysters

How to enjoy oysters

Oh, shucks
Oysterman Steve Feletti says France has much to teach us on the oyster front. Get slurping.
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Oui, chef

Oui, chef

GT chats with the chef’s chef, Thomas Keller, on why France is and always will be a culinary touchstone for him – even when he roasts a chicken.
Estelle, Melbourne restaurant review

Estelle, Melbourne restaurant review

At the Estelle, two chefs with disparate talents defy expectations of boho Northcote to deliver a dégustation that’s skilful, generous and unpretentious, writes Michael Harden.
4Fourteen, Sydney restaurant review

4Fourteen, Sydney restaurant review

Colin Fassnidge, the poet of pork, is one of the most interesting talents cooking in Sydney today, writes Pat Nourse, who visits 4Fourteen and asks: is that a slice of snout?
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July

July

The onset of winter has slowed growth in Stephanie Alexander’s garden, but the lemon tree is laden, the garlic has started growing and the kale is plentiful.
Michelin man

Michelin man

He likes game shooting. He makes Scotch eggs. He is one of the most respected chefs in London, and the only Australian currently to hold three Michelin stars. He is Brett Graham, chef-patron of Notting Hill two-star The Ledbury and The Harwood Arms in Fulham. We drop by his pub for a pint.
Game changers

Game changers

They became known as the Brit-pack, a group of young, confident, classically trained British chefs who bought complex technique, fun and black pudding to Melbourne’s dining rooms in the ’90s. We reunite them.
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MasterChef judge Matt Preston

MasterChef judge Matt Preston

Screen giant
Leo Schofield meets the bon viveur who brought the cravat into every lounge room in the country, MasterChef judge Matt Preston.
The Fish Shop, Sydney restaurant review

The Fish Shop, Sydney restaurant review

The Fish Shop is about seafood made fun and accessible via a mash-up of Aussie milk-bar and British chippy tropes, with a dash of Americana to season it, writes Pat Nourse.
Pei Modern, Melbourne restaurant review

Pei Modern, Melbourne restaurant review

Forget the intercity rivalry, writes Michael Harden. In Pei Modern, Sydney chef Mark Best has brought something unique and original to Melbourne’s buzzing food scene.
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The case for sausages

The case for sausages

Sausage today can mean chorizo, sai grog, cevapcici or merguez, but not so long ago it meant only one thing: the British banger. Nichola Fletcher reports.