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Regional Restaurant of the Year 2009: Royal Mail Hotel, Dunkeld, Victoria

Regional Restaurant of the Year 2009: Royal Mail Hotel, Dunkeld, Victoria

Great restaurants are an amalgam of many physical and human elements; bringing them together can be hard, even when the location is central. For it to happen in rural Victoria, as has happened at Dunkeld’s Royal Mail Hotel, is the kind of serendipitous outcome nobody could seriously have planned. Sometimes, the stars just line up. […]
Maitres d’ of the Year 2009: Liz Carey & Paul Guiney, Universal, Sydney

Maitres d’ of the Year 2009: Liz Carey & Paul Guiney, Universal, Sydney

Christine Manfield has something of a fondness for the road less travelled. Whether it’s the flavours in her food, the way it looks on the plate or, indeed, the way it’s structured on the menu, she’s willing – driven, almost – to step away from the familiar in search of new ways to do things. […]
Bar of the Year 2009: The Bowery, Brisbane

Bar of the Year 2009: The Bowery, Brisbane

All Cam Birt and Stephanie Canfell wanted was somewhere to drink. But from such small beginnings, great things can grow. “We wanted a cocktail bar that we wanted to go to. That’s all,” says Birt. The year was 2003. Birt had been working in bars in Japan and Canfell had just moved back to Brisbane […]
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Sommelier of the Year 2009: James Erskine, Auge, Adelaide

Sommelier of the Year 2009: James Erskine, Auge, Adelaide

In a wine-savvy town, Adelaide sommelier James Erskine stands tall for his dedicated yet humble approach to guiding restaurant diners’ wine choices. The 29-year-old sommelier at Auge restaurant has combined a winning mix of easy charm with infectious enthusiasm to recommend superb wines that suit Auge’s modern take on Italian food, based on knowledge gleaned […]
Outstanding Contribution to the Industry 2009: Donlevy Fitzpatrick

Outstanding Contribution to the Industry 2009: Donlevy Fitzpatrick

You don’t need to be old to appreciate so many things we take for granted were simply not possible 25 years ago. Take Victoria’s liberal – and enlightened – licensing laws, in relation to consuming beverages with or without food, for example. It wasn’t that long ago that pubs provided the only glimmer of opportunity […]
Best New Restaurant 2009: Bistro Guillaume, Melbourne

Best New Restaurant 2009: Bistro Guillaume, Melbourne

A team of champions, they say, doesn’t always make for a champion team. Even so, when Sydney’s Guillaume Brahimi accepted the offer to set up on the banks of the Yarra at Crown, he knew it was going to take a special brigade to have the kind of impact Bistro Guillaume has made on Melbourne. […]
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Best New Talent 2009: Elvis Abrahanowicz and Ben Milgate, Bodega, Sydney

Best New Talent 2009: Elvis Abrahanowicz and Ben Milgate, Bodega, Sydney

“This is nothing like we expected,” says Elvis Abrahanowicz. “We just wanted a nice place that everyone liked, which is, I guess, what we’ve got, but it’s all out of proportion to what we thought would happen.” He’s talking about the rampant success of Bodega, the mostly Spanish tapas restaurant he and co-head chef Ben […]
Restaurant of the Year 2009: Quay, Sydney

Restaurant of the Year 2009: Quay, Sydney

Chinese artichokes, tiny purple onions, native violets. White carrots, white borage and the rare and elusive white broad bean. Blossoms of carrot, rosemary and pea. Celtuce. The tuber known only as sweet root. Peter Gilmore’s shopping list sounds, at times, like a cross between a naturopath’s mini-bar and Act 4, Scene 1 from Macbeth. At […]

Bad waiter, good food. Should I tip?

Do I leave a tip if the food’s good, but the waiter’s lousy? “Tricky. Short of slipping a note over the pass into the kitchen on your way out or hiding it under a mound of uneaten cavolo nero, or having a face-off with your waiter, asking them to take the tip directly to the […]
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Wise guy

Wise guy

He’s taken Manhattan by storm, and now Alistair Wise, Gordon Ramsay’s pastry chef prodigy, returns home to tempt us with an armoury of irresistibly decadent desserts.
On the Marque

On the Marque

Mark Best, chef-patron of Sydney three-star Marque, talks to Gourmet Traveller features editor Pat Nourse about carrot juice, sleeping with Rodin and needle-nose pliers.
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Marque, Sydney restaurant review

Marque, Sydney restaurant review

Hiding in plain sight on Crown Street, the crack team at Marque are turning out some of the country’s finest food. With a minor facelift, the restaurant sparkles anew, says Pat Nourse.
Truly, madly, Marco Pierre White

Truly, madly, Marco Pierre White

Game hunter. Shark fisherman. Bad boy. Chef. Marco Pierre White is an enigma wrapped in a grimace smoking a Marlboro. On the one hand, he’s the boy from the council estate in Leeds deemed frightening by some members of the press, the loose cannon who was turfing people out of restaurants and reducing his chefs […]
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Braised pork belly rotolo with quince and salsa di porto

Ten of the best: pork belly dishes

Pork belly recipes Porchetta Chunky chorizo, chicken and vegetable soup Pork belly, chorizo and breadcrumbs with oranges (Migas) Crisp pork belly with fennel and white anchovy salad Salt-cured pork belly with broad bean ragoût Conchiglie with braised pork belly and radicchio   Crisp roasted pork belly,Fish and Wine**, Coolangatta, Qld ** Chef Dean Sammut wowed […]
Chinese takeaway

Chinese takeaway

Beijing cuisine has an enormous gastronomic range but for intensity of flavour it’s all about the hawker foods, from fragrant crisp duck to simple noodle soup. Perfect for a night in watching the Games.
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Why can’t I make a reservation?

What’s the deal with restaurants that don’t take reservations? Are they trying to make life hard for us? By Matt Pat Nourse, Gourmet Traveller restaurant critic and features editor writes: It seems like a fiendish invention, this no-bookings business, but there’s method in the badness. For one thing, it means that you can rock up at […]
Bistro Moderne

Bistro Moderne

“Get in there, have a go and enjoy it,” says Warren Turnbull, chef/owner of Sydney’s Restaurant Assiette, of the modern French dishes he’s created for us. They’re bistro classics with his unique stamp – a raw take on steak frites, a poached egg made crisp and spiced financières. Ah, oui, c’est trés bon.
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Lotus, Sydney restaurant review

Lotus, Sydney restaurant review

Lotus’s reputation for attracting the young and fun crowd remains intact with rising star chef Dan Hong’s appointment to the Potts Point bar and bistro, writes Pat Nourse.
Gordon Ramsay, man of the moment

Gordon Ramsay, man of the moment

Foul-mouthed, aggressive, authoritarian? John Lethlean comes face to face with the real Gordon Ramsay; British chef, TV personality and (possibly) Australian restaurateur.
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The Burlington, Sydney restaurant review

The Burlington, Sydney restaurant review

The Burlington at Crows Nest is a boon for North Shore diners who no longer have to cross the bridge to enjoy Matt Kemp’s European brasserie-style dining, writes Pat Nourse.

Are restaurants doing the healthy food thing right?

How are restaurants addressing our desire to eat more healthy foods and are there any restaurants doing this well? By meagan Pat Nourse, Gourmet Traveller features editor and restaurant critic, answers: Broadly speaking, I’d say that healthy eating and restaurant food don’t have an enormous amount to do with one another. Sydney chef Janni Kyritsis, […]
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A Bite with The Man Who Ate the World

A Bite with The Man Who Ate the World

Gourmet Traveller features editor Pat Nourse ran into Jay Rayner in London and thought he’d ask the piratical-locked Observer restaurant critic a few questions about his new book, The Man Who Ate the World: In Search of the Perfect Dinner, and the business of being a restaurant critic.
Maha, Melbourne restaurant review

Maha, Melbourne restaurant review

It’s Middle Eastern, but not as you know it. Maha merges a slick, masculine interior with culinary authenticity for a captivating experience. John Lethlean can’t wait to return.
Pendolino, Sydney restaurant review

Pendolino, Sydney restaurant review

Perched at the top of Sydney’s elegant Strand Arcade, Pendolino swings between an olive-oil emporium and an impressive Italian restaurant, writes Pat Nourse.
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The dishes we keep coming back for

The dishes we keep coming back for

**Steak frites, Montrachet, Brisbane **Montrachet’s steak, frites and salad has achieved legendary status with Francophile Brisbanites, and the appeal of this simple dish – the chips hand-cut and bronzed, the beef tender and pan-fried exactly to your personal taste – shows no sign of abating. About 150 orders are dispatched from Thierry Galichet’s Paddington kitchen […]
The most expensive dishes in Australia

The most expensive dishes in Australia

****Silks’ braised abalone with webbing from duck’s feet: $1380 per kilogram ****To spend as much money on food as fast as you can, head to Crown’s high-end Cantonese restaurant Silks and order a portion of the braised abalone with webbing from duck’s feet. At $138 per 100 grams (or $1380 per kilogram), this is a […]
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Watch this face

Watch this face

****Alistair Wise, Hobart **“You’re an idiot,” was Gordon Ramsay’s typically subtle response when word got out that Alistair Wise, the founding pastry chef at Ramsay’s eponymous New York restaurant, was returning to Tasmania to start his own venture. The first year of Ramsay’s foray into Manhattan was something of a rollercoaster, with a less-than-glowing review […]
Where to eat right now

Where to eat right now

**Mad Cow, Sydney **You can read the full review for all the details but, for those with appetites bigger than their attention spans, here’s the word: high-stakes steaks in a room with a look that owes more to The Love Boat than Peter Luger. The disposition and clothing of the staff, and the volume and […]
Hot new food trends 2008

Hot new food trends 2008

Edible flowers Flowers on food sounds like a throwback to the bad old days of glass bowls and square plates. But today’s blooms are discreet and dazzling flourishes rather than blousy nosegays and, crucially, they’re edible if not outright tasty. Already big in Spain, here they pop up everywhere from elderflowers on desserts at Claude’s […]
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Dishes of the moment 2008

Dishes of the moment 2008

****The smokehouse, Anise, Brisbane ****Hickory-smoked to order, this amuse bouche, a triple smokehouse treat, ticks all the right boxes. The exact make-up varies but the current line-up features a Pacific oyster, a couple of tender slivers of wagyu and a tranche of ocean trout served with a slice of lemon. Chef Jonathan Bryant’s kitchen is […]

Great food at reasonable prices in Melbourne

I’m looking for a restaurant to go to for dinner in Melbourne. Something with a great reputation, good food and reasonable prices. By EmilyW Pat Nourse, Gourmet Traveller features editor and restaurant critic, writes: You’re in for a treat: good food at reasonable prices is what Melbourne’s all about, so you’re somewhat spoiled for choice […]
2008 Best on the Best

2008 Best on the Best

The best on the best: we asked nine of the nation’s best chefs to spill the beans on their favourite suppliers, products and diversions for our April Best of the Best issue. Here are the insider picks, some well known, some off the beaten track. *Alla Wolf-Tasker, chef/owner, Lake House, Daylesford *Andrew McConnell, chef, Three, One, […]
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2008 Best on the Best: Shannon Bennett, chef/owner, Vue de Monde, Melbourne

2008 Best on the Best: Shannon Bennett, chef/owner, Vue de Monde, Melbourne

The Chefs *Alla Wolf-Tasker, chef/owner, Lake House, Daylesford *Andrew McConnell, chef, Three, One, Two, Melbourne *Peter Gilmore, chef, Quay, Sydney *Bruno Loubet, chef, Baguette, Brisbane *Nick Holloway, chef/co-owner, Nu Nu, Palm Cove *David Coomer, chef, Star Anise, Perth *Chui Lee Luk, chef/owner, Claude’s, Sydney ONLINE EXCLUSIVE *Jason Peppler, chef/owner, Isis, Brisbane *Shannon Bennett, chef/owner, Vue […]
2008 Best on the Best: Jason Peppler, chef/owner, Isis, Brisbane

2008 Best on the Best: Jason Peppler, chef/owner, Isis, Brisbane

The Chefs *Alla Wolf-Tasker, chef/owner, Lake House, Daylesford *Andrew McConnell, chef, Three, One, Two, Melbourne * Peter Gilmore, chef, Quay, Sydney * Bruno Loubet, chef, Baguette, Brisbane *Nick Holloway, chef/co-owner, Nu Nu, Palm Cove * David Coomer, chef, Star Anise, Perth *Chui Lee Luk, chef/owner, Claude’s, Sydney ONLINE EXCLUSIVE *Jason Peppler, chef/owner, Isis, Brisbane *Shannon […]
2008 Best on the Best: Chui Lee Luk, chef/owner, Claude’s, Sydney

2008 Best on the Best: Chui Lee Luk, chef/owner, Claude’s, Sydney

The Chefs *Alla Wolf-Tasker, chef/owner, Lake House, Daylesford *Andrew McConnell, chef, Three, One, Two, Melbourne *Peter Gilmore, chef, Quay, Sydney *Bruno Loubet, chef, Baguette, Brisbane *Nick Holloway, chef/co-owner, Nu Nu, Palm Cove *David Coomer, chef, Star Anise, Perth *Chui Lee Luk, chef/owner, Claude’s, Sydney ONLINE EXCLUSIVE *Jason Peppler, chef/owner, Isis, Brisbane *Shannon Bennett, chef/owner, Vue […]
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2008 Best on the Best: David Coomer, chef, Star Anise, Perth

2008 Best on the Best: David Coomer, chef, Star Anise, Perth

The Chefs *Alla Wolf-Tasker, chef/owner, Lake House, Daylesford *Andrew McConnell, chef, Three, One, Two, Melbourne *Peter Gilmore, chef, Quay, Sydney *Bruno Loubet, chef, Baguette, Brisbane *Nick Holloway, chef/co-owner, Nu Nu, Palm Cove *David Coomer, chef, Star Anise, Perth *Chui Lee Luk, chef/owner, Claude’s, Sydney ONLINE EXCLUSIVE *Jason Peppler, chef/owner, Isis, Brisbane *Shannon Bennett, chef/owner, Vue […]
2008 Best on the Best: Nick Holloway, chef/co-owner, Nu Nu, Palm Cove

2008 Best on the Best: Nick Holloway, chef/co-owner, Nu Nu, Palm Cove

The Chefs *Alla Wolf-Tasker, chef/owner, Lake House, Daylesford *Andrew McConnell, chef, Three, One, Two, Melbourne * Peter Gilmore, chef, Quay, Sydney * Bruno Loubet, chef, Baguette, Brisbane *Nick Holloway, chef/co-owner, Nu Nu, Palm Cove * David Coomer, chef, Star Anise, Perth *Chui Lee Luk, chef/owner, Claude’s, Sydney ONLINE EXCLUSIVE *Jason Peppler, chef/owner, Isis, Brisbane *Shannon […]
2008 Best on the Best: Bruno Loubet, chef, Baguette, Brisbane

2008 Best on the Best: Bruno Loubet, chef, Baguette, Brisbane

The Chefs *Alla Wolf-Tasker, chef/owner, Lake House, Daylesford *Andrew McConnell, chef, Three, One, Two, Melbourne *Peter Gilmore, chef, Quay, Sydney *Bruno Loubet, chef, Baguette, Brisbane *Nick Holloway, chef/co-owner, Nu Nu, Palm Cove *David Coomer, chef, Star Anise, Perth *Chui Lee Luk, chef/owner, Claude’s, Sydney ONLINE EXCLUSIVE *Jason Peppler, chef/owner, Isis, Brisbane *Shannon Bennett, chef/owner, Vue […]
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2008 Best on the Best: Peter Gilmore, chef, Quay, Sydney

2008 Best on the Best: Peter Gilmore, chef, Quay, Sydney

The Chefs *Alla Wolf-Tasker, chef/owner, Lake House, Daylesford *Andrew McConnell, chef, Three, One, Two, Melbourne *Peter Gilmore, chef, Quay, Sydney *Bruno Loubet, chef, Baguette, Brisbane *Nick Holloway, chef/co-owner, Nu Nu, Palm Cove *David Coomer, chef, Star Anise, Perth *Chui Lee Luk, chef/owner, Claude’s, Sydney ONLINE EXCLUSIVE *Jason Peppler, chef/owner, Isis, Brisbane *Shannon Bennett, chef/owner, Vue […]
2008 Best on the Best: Andrew McConnell, chef, Three, One, Two, Melbourne

2008 Best on the Best: Andrew McConnell, chef, Three, One, Two, Melbourne

The Chefs *Alla Wolf-Tasker, chef/owner, Lake House, Daylesford *Andrew McConnell, chef, Three, One, Two, Melbourne *Peter Gilmore, chef, Quay, Sydney *Bruno Loubet, chef, Baguette, Brisbane *Nick Holloway, chef/co-owner, Nu Nu, Palm Cove *David Coomer, chef, Star Anise, Perth *Chui Lee Luk, chef/owner, Claude’s, Sydney ONLINE EXCLUSIVE *Jason Peppler, chef/owner, Isis, Brisbane *Shannon Bennett, chef/owner, Vue […]
2008 Best on the Best: Alla Wolf-Tasker, chef/owner, Lake House, Daylesford

2008 Best on the Best: Alla Wolf-Tasker, chef/owner, Lake House, Daylesford

The Chefs *Alla Wolf-Tasker, chef/owner, Lake House, Daylesford *Andrew McConnell, chef, Three, One, Two, Melbourne *Peter Gilmore, chef, Quay, Sydney *Bruno Loubet, chef, Baguette, Brisbane *Nick Holloway, chef/co-owner, Nu Nu, Palm Cove *David Coomer, chef, Star Anise, Perth *Chui Lee Luk, chef/owner, Claude’s, Sydney ONLINE EXCLUSIVE *Jason Peppler, chef/owner, Isis, Brisbane *Shannon Bennett, chef/owner, Vue […]
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Ben Shewry: Out of Attica

Ben Shewry: Out of Attica

Melbourne’s Ben Shewry, Gourmet’s Best New Talent award-winner, brings a taste of his quirky, dynamic dishes to the table with this autumn selection.
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Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide key

WINE ★ ★ ★ Put simply, this restaurant offers one of the finest, most interesting and most mouth-watering. ★ ★ An outstanding, well-presented selection of wine that makes a significant contribution to overall appeal of the establishment. ★ A restaurant notable for the quality and sustainability of its cellar.
Great Brit

Great Brit

Don’t be fooled when you meet chef Adam Humphrey at Arras – he may have a thick Yorkshire accent but you won’t find any stodgy stews here.
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On the waterfront

On the waterfront

The reopening of Berowra Waters Inn under the watch of Dietmar Sawyere has resurrected the pleasures of fine dining in a sublime setting.

Why do I keep getting charged for bread?

Being charged for bread in restaurants makes me crazy. Shouldn’t bread be free? What’s the story? By lilninja Gourmet Traveller features editor and restaurant critic, Pat Nourse, writes: “The best restaurants, as a rule, tend to offer bread and water, if not a little more, as soon as you take your table as a simple courtesy […]
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Catalonia, Sydney restaurant review

Catalonia, Sydney restaurant review

The Spanish are passionate about their food, wine and soccer. Head to this North Shore tapas bar for a sample of the first two – and to chat about the third.
Fenix, Melbourne restaurant review

Fenix, Melbourne restaurant review

It’s not for everyone, but Ray Capaldi’s new-wave molecular gastronomy at Fenix is brave, inspired and often brilliant. Go with an open mind and prepare to be awed.
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Talking table with AA Gill

Talking table with AA Gill

With a collection of his famously savage reviews newly published, AA Gill talks restaurant criticism, wafting aromas and camel snot.
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Pulp Kitchen

Pulp Kitchen

REVIEW Residents of the what’s known locally as the People’s Republic of Ainslie don’t take kindly to regime change. Fortunately Pulp Kitchen’s new owner Gus Armstrong maintains bistro doctrine, keeping classic steak frites with bearnaise and a lemon tart with perfectly pitched acidity and exceptional pastry on the menu. Chef Josh Lundy pushes Pulp beyond […]
Ten Minutes by Tractor

Ten Minutes by Tractor

REVIEW For the already impressive Ten Minutes by Tractor, 2017 was a year of deep investment – and exquisite return. The decade-old dining room, reopened in April in sleek, urbane style: a vision in Japanese marble and heather-grey velvet. The upgrade is everywhere, from service through to Zalto glassware that does justice to the 88-page, […]
Stefano’s

Stefano’s

REVIEW At Mildura’s Grand Hotel, there’s no shortage of dining options (café, grill, pizza), but nearly 30 years on, there’s still nothing in this Victorian town to match the appeal and rustic sophistication of Stefano’s. In a cellar lined with clothed tables and classical music, Stefano de Pieri marries Mildura produce with Italian brio to […]
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Healesville Hotel

Healesville Hotel

REVIEW If you’re not up for trawling the length and breadth of the Yarra Valley in search of its many vinous and culinary gems, Healesville’s Edwardian-era hotel is a good Plan B. Built in 1910, this exceptionally hospitable pub has long paid homage to the valley’s brilliant wine and produce in ways that are anything […]
Matteo's

Matteo’s

REVIEW Look around you in the middle of a busy service at Matteo’s and you’d swear you were in a smart Italian restaurant. It sounds Italian, from the name of the place (a Melbourne dining landmark for more than 20 years) to the group of well-dressed Carlton signori enjoying a bottle of Chianti from the […]
Longrain

Longrain

REVIEW Longrain still has that “treasure hidden in plain sight” feel, as fresh as the spicy scent that hits you walking through the door. An expansive bar, open kitchen and communal tables add to the convivial atmosphere, and the army of fleet-footed waitstaff delivers slick, attentive service. The menu is a vibrant showcase of South […]
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Kenzan

Kenzan

REVIEW Kenzan has deservedly been on every “where to eat good Japanese food in Melbourne” list for decades now. Seats at the sushi bar are scarce because the quality of the seafood and the consistency of the knife skills on display have earned it a fiercely committed following. The dining room with its timber furniture […]
Il Bàcaro

Il Bàcaro

REVIEW Il Bàcaro transports you from the bustle of the Melbourne CBD into a pocket of low-lit intimacy where clean-cut wood and marble surfaces display an array of fine wines, chic thirtysomethings whisper to each other in darkened corners, and skilled waitstaff patrol the room offering excellent old-school service. Classic Italian dishes are given new […]
Cicciolina

Cicciolina

REVIEW Like the Italian porn-star-turned-politician it was named after 24 years ago, Cicciolina has grown from saucy to stalwart without sacrificing its bohemian side. The wood panelling is worn, the walls adorned with nudes, the loos off the car park. But there’s appealing chemistry driven by grown-up service and a chef who has been here […]
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Bistro Vue

Bistro Vue

REVIEW Shannon Bennett’s Bistro Vue is like a film set. The “stonewashed” walls are plaster, the timber beams are faux, the lighting a touch too bright, but it’s a warm fantasy. The accordion player is genuine, as is his commitment to “La Vie En Rose” each service. While the theatrics are good fun, they’re held […]
Courgette

Courgette

REVIEW Courgette is a nice break from the noisy, bustling style of many restaurants. The clientele is mainly business guests, there’s plush coffee-toned carpet instead of typically unforgiving industrial concrete surfaces and there’s barely any Instagramming going on despite James Mussillon’s classic French technique creating plenty of clickbait. Bug tails are added to seared scallops […]
Sails

Sails

REVIEW Sails is quintessential Noosa beachfront dining, with an exclusive position, killer view, staggering wine listand waitstaff whose service style is almost as sunny as the weather. The menu is aptly seafood-focused, with smart yet simple dishes like crisp bite-sized tostaditas laden with Mooloolaba tuna, avocado, lime and a fresh green tomato relish. If your […]
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Chill on Tedder

Chill on Tedder

REVIEW With its warm service, posh kids’ menu and contemporary interior, it’s no wonder this restaurant is a favourite for multigenerational celebrations. Owner-chef Daran Glasgow’s seasonal fare frequently dips into the surrounding coastal waters to propose something new, such as whiting fillets coated with flavoursome parmesan, a novel take on fish and chips. Char-grilled king […]
Me Wah

Me Wah

REVIEW Me Wah is where Hobart goes when it wants a fine night out. A place where diners can wallow in the luxury of noise-silencing carpet and a white linen-clad table, where ladies are given a seat for their handbags and gents the wine list. Yes, we’re in the rarified world of high-end Cantonese  food, […]
The Source

The Source

REVIEW Done exploring the Museum of Old and New Art’s subterranean treasures? Head to The Source – its glass-walled dining room features impressive views over the Derwent River and its chef Vince Trim takes inspiration from Tasmanian produce. He arranges an impressive collection of local ingredients in interesting combinations that deftly stop short of complicated. […]
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Lebrina

Lebrina

REVIEW Lebrina has been doing its Old-World French/Italian-inspired thing for more than 20 years. And while every city’s got a place where the linen is pressed, the service formal and slightly aloof, the wine list leans classic and glazes burnish meals more often seen in an Evelyn Waugh novel than a new-millennium menu, there’s a […]
The Bridgewater Mill

The Bridgewater Mill

REVIEW The water wheel still slowly turns, but the appeal of this 1860s Adelaide Hills landmark goes beyond its old flour mill. Seppeltsfield Winery’s Warren Randall bought the property from Petaluma winery in 2015, reinvented the venue’s dining options and, in 2017, the space itself – renovations include a deck and glass-walled top level. Chef […]
Jolleys Boathouse

Jolleys Boathouse

REVIEW Tranquil and relaxed, Jolleys Boathouse takes its cues from the Torrens River at its doorstep. Beneath lofty white beams, diners watch hopeful anglers and earnest joggers as the day’s final rays dapple the water. Polite, unhurried staff present menus highlighting South Australian wines, beers and spirits, plus the best of the state’s produce – […]
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Restaurant Two

Restaurant Two

REVIEW This style of dining is becoming a rarity in an age when share plates and bistronomy are de rigueur. Restaurant Two has stood the test of time for 17 years, remaining quietly committed to fine dining in contemporary surrounds, devoid of pomp and ceremony. Service has finesse without being finicky, and menus skip trends […]
Chianti

Chianti

REVIEW There’s something effortlessly charming about Adelaide’s oldest Italian dame. Waiters are so well versed and experienced – you’ll have a cool glass of vernaccia in one hand and grissini in the other before you’ve even begun to browse the large menu. There’s professional ease here, but also the potential for real fun, despite starched […]
Lolli Redini

Lolli Redini

REVIEW Simonn Hawke expresses the spirit and essence of her dishes rather than engaging in food fashion. Hers is food with cultural cred – there’s Italian passion in the brio and boldness of flavours, and French precision in the intensity of reductions and the intricate presentation. Regulars ponder what they’ll have after the exquisite twice-baked […]
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Caveau

Caveau

REVIEW You’re guaranteed to pause at least once during your meal to identify the instrumental song being piped through the restaurant. (It was Clint Mansell’s “Requiem for a Dream” that caught us.) But there will be little confusion over the quality of Peter Sheppard’s food. This fine-dining, French-leaning restaurant is Wollongong’s most awarded, and it’s […]
Vini

Vini

REVIEW There are the restaurants in Australia that replicate ideas of what things were like in Italy, and then there are restaurants that feel like they might have sprung new from the ground in Rome or Milan today. Small of size but big on verve and casually hip to its core, Vini is of the […]
Sushi E

Sushi E

REVIEW As with every good marathon, preparation is key. Sushi E has a phone book of a menu that rewards homework. Even then, it pays to seek advice from the glamazons who attend this white marble jewel box, tucked behind the Hemmesphere cocktail lounge. Order a Windsor Knot and watch the four chefs do amazing […]
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Café Sopra

Café Sopra

REVIEW Fratelli Fresh has come a long way since the Danks Street warehouse, now defunct, and the first Café Sopra on the top floor. There are now multiple locations, all serving authentic Italian fare: fresh ingredients cooked well from primi to dolci. Salads have serious game. Burrata, roasted pumpkin, spinach and pistachio displays a range […]
Prime

Prime

REVIEW At Prime, the cavernous steakhouse set within the GPO, things are done on a grand scale. As you step through the colossal arched entrance and follow the red carpet to your linen-draped table, it’s clear size is the key player here (the height of the menu is just the start) and prices follow suit. […]
Cinco Bistro

Cinco Bistro

REVIEW Suburban standout Cinco keeps its loyal clientele returning for more by offering generous portions and familiar-sounding dishes, albeit often with an adventurous twist. A deftly balanced entrée of prawn gnocchi with brown butter and goat’s curd arrives studded with raisins, adding an unexpected yet welcome sweetness. Pork belly braised in master stock shares a […]
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Otto Ristorante

Otto Ristorante

REVIEW Here’s a spot for sun-drenched lunches fuelled by white-peach Bellinis and bright antipasti. The glow of Otto’s egg lamps has long drawn Sydney’s glitterati, who flock here for the cashed-up marina vibe, snappy service and sensuous riffs on traditional Italian fare. There’s polish in Richard Ptacnik’s pasta offerings, as in twists of strozzapreti with […]
Guillaume

Guillaume

REVIEW Double-clothed tables. Framed Matisse drawings. Thirty-five-dollar glasses of Bordeaux. Fellow diners who begin their sentences with the phrase, “So I get a call from the ambassador…” Yes, Guillaume is every inchthatrestaurant. The sommelier will have a European accent, the other staff will be quietly competent if not exactly engaging. The same could be said […]
Glebe Point Diner

Glebe Point Diner

REVIEW If we’re brutally honest, Glebe Point Road’s status as an eat street rests more on the quantity of its outlets rather than the quality. But Glebe Point Diner stands tall among the handful of exceptions to the rule, a bistro with the sort of local charm that has near-universal appeal. The mild eccentricity of […]
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Glass Brasserie

Glass Brasserie

REVIEW The cavernous glass and steel-framed space bustles with business folk hepped up on one of Sydney’s most voluminous and finely wrought wine lists, dipping into the broad menu that skitters from raw to grilled while touching on tapas and leaning heavily on seafood. For an entrée, try grilled sardines, crunchy and lightly charred, finished […]
Catalina

Catalina

REVIEW One could assume that a restaurant so well located might rely on its good looks to get by. Not so. The views of Rose Bay may be seductive, but the food is equally commanding. Seafood is the star, as an entrée of seared scallops with a tiger prawn and snapper brandade, leek purée, seaweed […]

Bodega

REVIEW Bodega in one word? Swingin’. The tunes. The skirts. The tapas and share plates making their way from the open kitchen, carried by some of the friendliest waitstaff in town. The energy is infectious. Slide into a baby-blue leather banquette and peruse the strictly Latin wine list while well-coiffed chefs build queso fresco towers […]
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Azuma

Azuma

REVIEW There are plenty of Japanese restaurants in Sydney, but not many truly evoke the feeling of dining in Tokyo in the same way as Azuma. The corporate location, sophisticated, dark-tinted interior, Japanese artworks on the walls and perhaps Sydney’s best tempura more than set the scene. There’s a tasting omakase menu, but it’s not […]
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