Advertisement
Home Dining Out Page 39

Bistro Molines

REVIEW There’s so much to love about this Hunter Valley favourite: the spectacular views of the vine-clad valley, the charm of the French provincial décor, and the friendly floor staff who offer a specific dose of hospitality that you just don’t get in the city. Then there’s the hearty, European-inspired food that’s a real crowd-pleaser. […]
Lucio’s

Lucio’s

REVIEW If walls could talk, Lucio’s might need to shut down, such are the classified conversations of Sydney’s powerbrokers, media heavyweights and artists who’ve broken bread in its sunny dining rooms. Not only do they enjoy discretion among works from art royalty who’ve eaten and sketched here – John Olsen, Charles Blackman and Garry Shead, […]
Bloodwood

Bloodwood

REVIEW There’s intensity here: in the energy levels of floor staff working a perpetually full house, in the furious output in the open kitchen from early evening, among diners packed cheek-by-jowl along the narrow terrace’s brick walls, in a drinks list big on organic wines, left-of-centre grape varieties and craft beers. But most of all […]
Advertisement
Berta

Berta

This restaurant has closed. REVIEW Jamie Irving isn’t pushing the boundaries of Italian cuisine too far at this understated bistro – he’s pushing impeccably sourced ingredients and presenting them without tricks. Tuesday nights are even dedicated to celebrating a seasonal ingredient such as chestnuts or chilli, or northern Italian cheeses, perhaps. The buzzy room befits […]
Sage Dining Rooms

Sage Dining Rooms

REVIEW Sage has seen about as many head chefs as Canberra has sworn in prime ministers in recent years. Fortunately, the cosy fine-diner has found consistency with Thomas Heinrich at the helm. He’s pared back the menu and the reliance on foams and soils. And floor staff have dialled down the formality, if anything this […]
Bistro perfection

Bistro perfection

Prefer your salad leaves manicured? Jeremy Strode, a chef with possibly superhuman powers of finesse and consistency, is in full flight at Bistrode CBD, writes Pat Nourse.
Advertisement
On common ground

On common ground

Two small, well-crafted restaurants have sprung up on either side of the Yarra: a boon for both neighbourhoods, writes Michael Harden.
And the winners are…

And the winners are…

The people behind Australia’s favourite restaurants gathered at Flower Drum in Melbourne to toast the winners in Gourmet Traveller’s 2011 Restaurant Awards.
October

October

Multicoloured tomatoes, stripy eggplant, vibrant broad beans and heavenly celery have sprung to life in Stephanie Alexander’s garden.
Advertisement
Online Q&A: Noma’s René Redzepi

Online Q&A: Noma’s René Redzepi

In April the number-one spot in the World's 50 Best Restaurants poll was taken from El Bulli by Noma, a restaurant in Copenhagen. In October, Noma, a cookbook by chef René Redzepi, hits the shelves and Redzepi will visit Australia to promote it in conjunction with the Sydney International Food Festival and Phaidon. On the eve of his return to Australia trip, Redzepi spoke to Gourmet Traveller chief restaurant critic Pat Nourse.
2011 GT Restaurant Awards event

2011 GT Restaurant Awards event

Melbourne's Flower Drum was the scarlet setting this year for the Australian restaurant business's night of nights, the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Awards and the launch of the 2011 edition of the GT Australian Restaurant Guide.
Advertisement
September

September

There’s a riot of colour in Stephanie Alexander’s garden, from exotic South American tubers to purple-podded peas.
Wizards of Mod Oz

Wizards of Mod Oz

The lauded team behind Glebe Point Diner have brought their unique brand of rusticity without clichés to Neutral Bay, writes Pat Nourse.
Advertisement
The drum to beat

The drum to beat

After 35 years in the business, Australia’s pre-eminent Cantonese restaurant has a new menu and even more energy than ever, writes Michael Harden. Peking duck, anyone?
Quay to the city

Quay to the city

Call it the snow-egg effect. Peter Gilmore’s Sydney restaurant has been booked out for months. Now the chef with a passion for produce presents a sumptuous cookbook – and that recipe.
Izakaya Den

Izakaya Den

REVIEW Izakaya Den has all the hallmarks of an ideal Tinder venue: a tucked-away CBD location, flattering lighting, local wines and interesting cocktails. There are even barstools that fit two humans side by side with a seat at the bar primo, the tap-tap of knives a pleasant counterpoint to booming tunes. After eight years, the […]
Advertisement
Sarti

Sarti

REVIEW Sarti is at least three places in one: a favourite of the long-lunch and night-time crowd, thanks to its open-air rooftop terrace; a modern Italian restaurant serving everyone from quiet couples to family birthday groups; and a buzzy, popular cocktail bar. The décor is 1980s Italian nightclub meets nonna’s house: think glossy black and […]
Moda

Moda

REVIEW This leafy CBD sanctuary, with its covered courtyard tables and chandelier centrepiece, embodies Spanishenergía, its ambience a clear nod to the chef-patron’s Barcelona upbringing. The flavour-driven dishes are less clearly inflected, drawing as much inspiration from Mediterranean and Queensland bounty as Catalonia. Padrón peppers fire up alongside spicy Manolete chorizo, and Queensland mackerel comes […]
2011 Restaurant Awards nominees

2011 Restaurant Awards nominees

Want a snapshot of the movers and shakers in the Australian food scene? Look no further than the nominees for this year’s GT Restaurant Awards.
Advertisement
MoVida, mo’ magic

MoVida, mo’ magic

MoVida Aqui, the latest rendering of Melbourne’s modern Spanish powerhouse, could challenge the loyalties of even the most diehard fan of the original, writes Michael Harden.
Good ideas to share

Good ideas to share

Hidden in a laneway at the city’s southern end, Berta is a thing of beauty, writes Pat Nourse. It’s about potent flavours and natural textures; about good ideas rather than showing off.
August

August

Winter salad greens, sugarsnap peas, young beetroot and narcissus flourish this month in Stephanie Alexander’s garden.
Advertisement
Shining a light

Shining a light

From the food and the venue to the outstanding winners, the focus was on the country’s finest at this year’s Gourmet Traveller Travel Awards.
London calling

London calling

After seven years Down Under, chef Bruno Loubet has returned to London to head a new restaurant – but he’s taken his laid-back Brisbane attitude with him, writes Guy Dimond.
Advertisement
Loam restaurant review

Loam restaurant review

Aaron Turner’s love of the countryside in which he grew up, combined with his beautifully conceived food, is thrilling diners on Victoria’s Bellarine Peninsula, writes Michael Harden.
Advertisement
July

July

Tender shoots of garlic, heads of young broccoli and feathery clusters of flat-leaf parsley are emerging in Stephanie Alexander’s winter garden.
David Chang rocks Oz

David Chang rocks Oz

Infatuated with Australia, Momofuku’s David Chang recalls his trip and shares recipes, including his famous pork buns.
Advertisement
Stephanie’s garden – June

Stephanie’s garden – June

The mornings have turned crisp, and Stephanie Alexander’s garden is looking a little bare, but Tuscan kale, artichokes and broad beans battle on.
Stephanie’s garden – May

Stephanie’s garden – May

Stephanie Alexander joins Gourmet Traveller with a new monthly column on growing your own kitchen garden. This month, we’re planting leeks, peas and spinach.
Advertisement
Mangia bene

Mangia bene

Whether it’s a rustic dish that reminds them of their mammas’ cooking, or a fresh take on a classic, Australia’s best Italian chefs nominate their favourite Italian dishes.
Balzari, Melbourne restaurant review

Balzari, Melbourne restaurant review

Balzari is putting Lygon Street back on the map with authentic regional cooking, a pared-back aesthetic and charming, hospitable service, writes Michael Harden.
Flour power

Flour power

The humble grissino, pride of Turin, has saved a prince from death, captivated Napoleon and inspired the Futurists, writes John Irving. And you thought it was just a breadstick.
Advertisement
Otto, Sydney restaurant review

Otto, Sydney restaurant review

A decade on Sydney’s fine-dining A-list is a lifetime in restaurant years, but at Otto, new chef Richard Ptacnik isn’t taking its gold-plated credentials for granted, writes Pat Nourse.
No 35, Melbourne restaurant review

No 35, Melbourne restaurant review

The views at Melbourne’s Sofitel are legendary and now chef Stuart McVeigh is delivering food which gives the glittering vista the respect it deserves, writes Michael Harden.
Advertisement
Medusa Taverna, Sydney restaurant review

Medusa Taverna, Sydney restaurant review

With simple food done well, Medusa Taverna may be the best casual Greek diner in Sydney, writes Pat Nourse. It’s polished without being pricey and there’s not a fish-net in sight.
Beirut to Balwyn

Beirut to Balwyn

It’s a Melbourne phenomenon: the rise and rise of modern Middle Eastern cuisine. Michael Harden rides the second wave of the city’s sumac-spiced love affair.
Advertisement
Enter the Chang

Enter the Chang

New York’s Momofuku is a modern-day restaurant phenomenon, but what’s it all about? With chef David Chang visiting Australia in March, Pat Nourse offers this primer.
Advertisement
Are you a food tragic?

Are you a food tragic?

It’s time to take our annual foodism test. Your obsession could win you one of four fabulous KitchenAid stand mixers, designed for those who really love to cook.
Advertisement
Ormeggio, Sydney restaurant review

Ormeggio, Sydney restaurant review

Having eaten his fill of generic “Italian” food, Pat Nourse is excited anew by the distinctly personal, regional path taken by Alessandro Pavoni at Mosman’s Ormeggio.
Provenance restaurant review

Provenance restaurant review

Michael Ryan’s excellent cooking highlights the strength of local produce and places Provenance among the country’s best regional restaurants, writes Michael Harden.
2010 Exposure Gala

2010 Exposure Gala

We had a ball when fine Italian food and sparkling good company all came together for a good cause at the annual Exposure Gala. PHOTOGRAPHY DANIEL MAHON
Advertisement
Sake, Sydney restaurant review

Sake, Sydney restaurant review

This new modern Japanese eatery in The Rocks is shaking up Sydney dining, and the bar’s signature Sake Bomb is just the start of it, writes Pat Nourse.
Comme, Melbourne restaurant review

Comme, Melbourne restaurant review

Chef Daniel Southern’s debut at Comme has brought new energy, focus and confidence to the restaurant, writes Michael Harden. Now the food is as sharp as its slick surrounds.
Advertisement
Christmas suppliers

Christmas suppliers

Christmas catch
We’ve gone hunting and gathering across the country to bring you the best for your Christmas table.
Favourite cookbooks of 2009

Favourite cookbooks of 2009

In another busy year for food publishing, there were some shining stars you’ll want under your tree – to give or receive. Here are the brightest, hand-picked by the GT editorial team.
Online Q&A: Adriano Zumbo, pâtissier

Online Q&A: Adriano Zumbo, pâtissier

Pat Nourse caught up with the star pastry chef at his Sydney café to talk chocolate (he eats about eight handfuls a day), the future of desserts (smoke and bubblegum?) and his stance on the Violet Crumble/Crunchie divide.
Advertisement
Ocean Room, Sydney restaurant review

Ocean Room, Sydney restaurant review

Map in hand, Pat Nourse navigates his way around a tuna wing at Ocean Room. On the way, he discovers a flash new fit-out and new focus at this harbourside restaurant.
Talking Thai: David Thompson on Thai Street Food

Talking Thai: David Thompson on Thai Street Food

On the eve of publication of Thai Street Food, his exploration of the cuisine of the noodle stalls, soup vendors and papaya-pounders of Bangkok and surrounds, London-based Australian Thai authority David Thompson sits down at Sailors Thai on a sunny Sydney morning to talk to Pat Nourse about kanom jin fermented rice noodles, the complexity and dynamic nature of Asian hawker foodways, opening a Thai restaurant in Thailand and why you shouldn't put your photographer in the back seat.
Advertisement
Child’s play

Child’s play

Julia Child introduced French cuisine to ’60s America, and now – thanks to Hollywood’s Nora Ephron – her home-cooking ethos is as influential as ever, writes Cerentha Harris.
The Deanery, Melbourne restaurant review

The Deanery, Melbourne restaurant review

The Deanery’s food is finally playing to the strength of its impressive wine list by tapping into the whimsical talents of former Interlude chef Robin Wickens, writes Michael Harden.
Blanco, Sydney restaurant review

Blanco, Sydney restaurant review

Headed by two former Bistro Moncur chefs, newcomer Blanco brings a fresh combination of levity and exactitude to casual Kings Cross dining, writes Pat Nourse.
Advertisement
Rumi

Rumi

REVIEW Rumi’s still got it. It helped introduce share plates to Melbourne in 2006, winning umpteen awards and locals’ hearts ever since. It’s that “where can we go with a group?” place when two mates are vego, one only eats lamb, one’s a pescatarian and one doesn’t drink (hello mocktails – try watermelon with rosewater, […]
Hellenic Republic

Hellenic Republic

REVIEW Now part of a small chain with outposts in Kew and Williamstown, the original Hellenic Republic sits comfortably in its East Brunswick surrounds, its exterior brightened with commissioned graffiti, the inside evoking the Mediterranean coastline. Start off with pita bread that’s perfect with the sharply salty taramasalata or try the kounoupidi, a salad of […]
Coda

Coda

REVIEW Coda has cemented its place as a CBD stayer. Its basement location has lost none of its industrial-chic edge. And despite the changing of the guard in the kitchen (still overseen by Adam D’Sylva), the dining experience hasn’t skipped a beat. Today, Coda’s Asian accent is more pronounced than ever, making the old buffalo […]
Advertisement
Jellyfish

Jellyfish

REVIEW Jellyfish has a long, open dining room designed to take full advantage of Story Bridge and river views. Drag your eyes from the vista, though, and you’ll find the array of seafood on offer just as captivating. The daily ‘fresh fish’ menu is the way to go, with as many as 14 species to […]
Racine Restaurant at La Colline

Racine Restaurant at La Colline

REVIEW Watch out for the new hit from chef Shaun Arantz, ‘Honey, I Shrunk the Menu’. Now it’s just four entrées and four main courses, plus a charcuterie platter and four desserts. But no complaints, because every dish has been perfected. Arantz marries seemingly incongruous flavours and textures with impeccable grace – snapper with wheat […]
Pipers of Penola

Pipers of Penola

REVIEW This quaint white timber restaurant was a turn-of-the-century ex-Methodist church, tucked down a quiet Penola street. Ten years ago, accomplished floor manager Erika Bowen and her chef husband Simon transformed it into a tidy, efficient dining room, and have remained true to the building’s historic charm. A small but carefully considered à la carte […]
Advertisement
2010 Restaurant Awards night

2010 Restaurant Awards night

The 2010 Restaurant Awards were celebrated in style at Rockpool Bar & Grill in Sydney. Here are the winners after the event.
Master chefs

Master chefs

Pat Nourse and Kerryn Burgess track down some of the best in the business and, amid the rattle of pans, find out what it really takes to rise to the top.
Omerta, Sydney restaurant review

Omerta, Sydney restaurant review

Omertà translates to a union of families, but in Eugenio Maiale’s version it’s first and foremost about the drinking of wine – and sharing some damned fine food, says Pat Nourse.
Advertisement
2010 Restaurant Awards

2010 Restaurant Awards

We’ve downed forks, the votes are in, and we are proud to present the Australian Gourmet Traveller 2010 Restaurant Awards.
Wine list of the year 2010: Rockpool Bar & Grill, Sydney

Wine list of the year 2010: Rockpool Bar & Grill, Sydney

Oh, lordy. If you were asked to dream up the best wine list in the world, no expense spared, all indulgences indulged, all bases covered, all classic estates and legendary vintages included, you probably still couldn’t come close to matching the very real wine list at Sydney’s Rockpool Bar & Grill. This list is winning […]
Regional restaurant of the year 2010: Royal Mail Hotel, Dunkeld

Regional restaurant of the year 2010: Royal Mail Hotel, Dunkeld

It’s a big ask in terms of time, distance and money to eat at Dunkeld’s Royal Mail Hotel, but this is a restaurant that answers all the questions with a resounding yes. It’s a place that truly embraces the philosophies of regionality and seasonality, presenting them in a way that’s unmistakeably modern and complex but […]
Advertisement
Maitre d’ of the year 2010: Tom Sykes, Rockpool Bar & Grill, Sydney

Maitre d’ of the year 2010: Tom Sykes, Rockpool Bar & Grill, Sydney

Tom Sykes’ first Sydney restaurant job, back in 1996, was at a little place called Rockpool. Fast-forward almost 15 years and Sykes has not only climbed the ranks from waiter to headwaiter to assistant manager to general manager in time for the Sydney Olympics in 2000 in the crucible of the city’s most talked-about restaurant, […]
Bar of the year 2010: Gerald’s Bar, Melbourne

Bar of the year 2010: Gerald’s Bar, Melbourne

Gerald Diffey has worked at and with some of Victoria’s great names – Karen Martini, Rita Macali, Tansy Good and Stefano de Pieri among them – and has spread his affable charm wherever he’s appeared. But it’s at his small bar in Rathdowne Street, Carlton, propped next door to the pizza cacophony that is La […]
Sommelier of the year 2010: Kjell Ove Almeland, Jackson’s, Perth

Sommelier of the year 2010: Kjell Ove Almeland, Jackson’s, Perth

Jackson’s has always been the kind of restaurant where minor miracles of the edible kind occurred, but the wine list sometimes felt like a bit of an also-ran in the presence of chef/owner Neal Jackson’s perennially quirky fare. Enter Kjell Ove Almeland, a flamboyant Norwegian with a patois so chunky you could carve it. (His […]
Advertisement
Outstanding contribution to the industry 2010: Leo Schofield, restaurant critic

Outstanding contribution to the industry 2010: Leo Schofield, restaurant critic

There’ll never be a need to carbon date the quantum leap in Australia’s food fashion. Or to ponder its greatest influence. In 1975, Leo Schofield penned the first guide to eating out in Sydney and went on to become the senior restaurant critic for The Sydney Morning Herald. Today, as editor-at-large for Australian Gourmet Traveller, […]
New restaurant of the year 2010: Rockpool Bar & Grill, Sydney

New restaurant of the year 2010: Rockpool Bar & Grill, Sydney

In retrospect, the 12 months since the last GT awards might not seem like the most felicitous period in which to open an ambitious new restaurant. And yet here we are with an embarrassment of restaurant riches. It’s hard to remember a year in which the new restaurant gong was anywhere near this hotly contested. […]
Best new talent 2010: Ryan Squires, The Buffalo Club, Brisbane

Best new talent 2010: Ryan Squires, The Buffalo Club, Brisbane

When Cam Birt and Stephanie Canfell, partners in Brisbane’s standard-setting Bowery bar, decided to open a dégustation-only restaurant in an old bank building one storey above street level in the still-edgy Fortitude Valley, Ryan Squires topped their chef shopping list. Queensland-bred Squires had made a splash a few years earlier, returning from stints at The […]
Advertisement
Restaurant of the year 2010: Quay, Sydney

Restaurant of the year 2010: Quay, Sydney

Yes, lightning really can strike in the same place twice. If anything, the Quay that is Restaurant of the Year today is, dare we say it, a better place than it was 12 months ago when it first won the award. All the things that made it great then – the unmatched commitment to sourcing […]
Advertisement
And the winners are

And the winners are

We’ve downed forks, the votes are in, and we are proud to present the Australian Gourmet Traveller 2010 Restaurant Awards.
Advertisement
Sepia, Sydney restaurant review

Sepia, Sydney restaurant review

A classic aesthetic and sober-toned interior belie the novel and forward-thinking cuisine delivered by chef Martin Benn at Sepia, his first solo venture, writes Pat Nourse.
Coda, Melbourne restaurant review

Coda, Melbourne restaurant review

A fine pedigree, good looks, pronounced flavours and a sense of energy and fun have helped Coda deftly parry some great expectations, writes Michael Harden.
Ramsay Down Under

Ramsay Down Under

Backstage at his Sanctuary Cove show, the Kitchen Nightmare speaks to Pat Nourse about the Grimshaw affair and his new Australian project.
Advertisement
Buzo al fresco

Buzo al fresco

Grab a drink, sit down and relax: the talented team behind Sydney restaurant Buzo are doing all the hard work, serving up rustic wintry fare that’s perfect for a weekend away.
Gordon Ramsay’s top bollockings

Gordon Ramsay’s top bollockings

Gordon Ramsay worked for some of Europe’s greatest chefs on his way to the top of the cooking game. Not coincidentally, perhaps, he also worked for some individuals who were as well known back-of-house for their tempers as they were known out front for their culinary grace. It’s no secret that Ramsay gives it today as good as he got it as a young chef, and he’s unflinching in his assessment of the top terrors he’s encountered in his time in the kitchen.
Advertisement
Embrasse, Melbourne restaurant review

Embrasse, Melbourne restaurant review

Unusual vegetables, herbs and flowers from chef Nicolas Poelaert’s own garden are behind the whimsical, sometimes odd and often wonderful food at Embrasse, writes Michael Harden.
Back to the bistro classics

Back to the bistro classics

With duck confit and steak frites thick on the ground these days, a good bistro meal isn’t hard to find. But what about a great one? We track down the country’s best, dish by dish.
The World’s 50 Best Restaurants, 2009

The World’s 50 Best Restaurants, 2009

The Pat Nourse Polaroid files: "These pictures were taken at the winners' lunch at St John restaurant the day after the World's 50 Best Restaurants ceremony. I've had the pleasure of chairing the Australian and Pacific votes. It's not a paid gig, but an invite to join the critics who head the other voting panels and the award-winning chefs at a lunch hosted by Fergus Henderson is incentive enough. This year's menu kicked off with an ox heart salad (the hearts of oxen, not a type of tomato), followed by pig's head and potato pie (with plenty of mustard) and ice-cream flavoured with the Dr Henderson, Fergus's favourite cocktail of Fernet Branca and crème de menthe."
Advertisement