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Home Dining Out Page 38
April

April

Stephanie Alexander takes comfort in homemade pickled cucumbers and pesto while mourning the loss of her dear Manchurian pear tree.
March

March

Stephanie Alexander finds putting up with possums and eradicating black spot from the roses less difficult than predicting nature’s twists and turns.
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The Est Est Est effect

The Est Est Est effect

Almost 10 years since its close, the reverberations from this Melbourne restaurant are still felt in kitchens across the country. With chef Donovan Cooke opening The Atlantic, we renuite the alumni of Est Est Est to tell the story of when rock ’n’ roll met fine dining.
Felix, Sydney restaurant review

Felix, Sydney restaurant review

Felix comes to Sydney by way of Paris and New York and chef Lauren Murdoch’s own intuitive twists. It loses nothing in the translation, writes Pat Nourse.
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Ice-cream challenge

Ice-cream challenge

Someone’s got to do it: a taste-test of the nation’s top ice-cream brands. The masters of all things sweet, Adriano Zumbo and Peter Gilmore, dish up their (sometimes chilly) verdict.
February

February

When nature asserts itself, Stephanie Alexander finds comfort in a handful of blueberries and some marvellous black Krim tomatoes.
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Exposure Gala 2010

Exposure Gala 2010

“From Paris with Love” was the theme of the recent Silver Ribbon Exposure Gala for the OCRF. And in true Gallic style, we had a ball. PHOTOGRAPHY DANIEL MAHON
Chefs on the grill

Chefs on the grill

We asked 65 of Australia’s leading chefs what they were throwing on the barbie this summer. Forget corn cobs and charred sausages – here’s what they had to say.
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Wills and Kate

Royal wedding menus

Right royal feast: What’s on the menu at the wedding of the century? Pat Nourse pops the question to chefs of the realm.
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January

January

Having staked the tomatoes, hand-pollinated the zucchini and mulched the whole garden, Stephanie Alexander is ready for a beach holiday.
The Bar, raised

The Bar, raised

Bar H is the latest and greatest rejoinder to the idea that Sydney lacks quality casual eats, writes Pat Nourse.
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Flinders foraging

Flinders foraging

Native ingredients are a mainstay of René Redzepi’s food. Here in Australia, he foraged for our indigenous produce.
December

December

On the cusp of summer, Stephanie Alexander is searching out new homes for her pimientos de Padrón plant, pumpkin vine and lettuces.
Stokehouse reborn

Stokehouse reborn

Melbourne’s landmark beachside restaurant has been given a sexy makeover, with good looks matching great food, writes Michael Harden.
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Looking sharp

Looking sharp

With Riccardo Momesso’s contemporary cooking and Joe Mammone’s suave front-of-house style, Sarti is one of Melbourne’s most exciting restaurants, writes Michael Harden.
A test of mettle

A test of mettle

Leo Schofield reports from the set of TV’s Iron Chef as three of Australia’s culinary superstars go to battle.
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Got real milk?

Got real milk?

Perhaps the most basic food known to humans, milk is now among the most processed, writes Will Studd.
Rise and shine

Rise and shine

What better reason to leap out of bed this weekend than 43 (in no particular order) of the nation’s best breakfasts? Just add coffee.
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November

November

It’s time to prune the grapevine and find space for tomatoes, eggplant and cucumbers in Stephanie Alexander’s garden.
Cape Lodge

Cape Lodge

REVIEW Caves Road is Margaret River’s golden mile, a scenic route studded with prize wineries (Vasse Felix, Cullen, Pierro) and Cape Lodge, a hinterland estate offering upscale accommodation and dining to match. Chef Michael Elfwing and his floor staff do much of the heavy lifting in a dated dining room beside a pretty lake. His […]
Supermaxi

Supermaxi

REVIEW Bells and whistles? There aren’t any at this smart neighbourhood Italian restaurant, but that doesn’t stop it having the gravitational pull of a black hole. Rita Macali’s reputation spread citywide last decade with Ladro; now it’s a family affair with husband Giovanni Patane schmoozing the floor with Italian wines and Macali in the kitchen. […]
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Black Cow Bistro

Black Cow Bistro

REVIEW The Black Cow grills on: it’s still a local favourite and it’s increasingly popular with visitors. The main reason? A list of carefully sourced cuts of aged, grass-fed beef and some consistently champion-standard char-grilling. Entrées, such as char-grilled tiger prawns in a tart sauce of lemongrass, coconut and turmeric, provide a solid overture while […]
The Lane Vineyard

The Lane Vineyard

REVIEW The Lane Vineyard’s welcoming staff are proud of their show-stopping Adelaide Hills views. Our entrée is an even prettier landscape: folds of ocean trout dotted with marinated roe and threaded with tiny marigolds, violets and cornflowers, while dill oil is pooled in a peak of the whitest crème fraîche. Main courses aren’t hard on […]
The Kitchen Door

The Kitchen Door

REVIEW Fresh from a stint at Maxwell Wines’ Ellen Street Restaurant, chef Tom Boden has a new home among the vines and paddocks at Penny’s Hill. In keeping with the rural vibe, Boden’s food is honest, rustic and bound to sate the hungriest of appetites. A slab of slow-roasted lamb is meltingly tender and delicious […]
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Spirit House

Spirit House

REVIEW Much more than a meal, the Spirit House is like a mini-break in steamy South East Asia. Follow the torch-lit boardwalk through lush rainforest, past the Buddha statues to a series of dining pavilions hidden around a lake. By day, birdsong provides a natural soundtrack, giving way after dark to a chorus of frogs. […]
Harrisons

Harrisons

REVIEW The lunchtime crowd seems oblivious to the rain and thunder causing a commotion just beyond the restaurant’s timber deck. They’re too consumed, it seems, by chef-owner Spencer Patrick’s food. In particular, his 14-hour slow-roasted lamb shoulder cooked with Madras spices and topped with crisp curry leaves. The meat, which falls from the bone, is […]
Muse

Muse

REVIEW You can find Muse in the heart of NSW wine country, housed in a grand industrial building on the Hungerford Hill estate. The menu is packed with flavour, latterly leaning towards Japanese ingredients – an entrée of deer tartare with puffed buckwheat and shimeji is shaped like gyoza in pickled turnip, and seasoned with ginger, sesame […]
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Saké

Saké

REVIEW The Double Bay arm of this slick and growing franchise encapsulates the Saké ethos. The room is good-looking, as is the clientele, the beats are chilled and the well-heeled diners can order contemporary spins on Japanese favourites. Here, prawns are prepared popcorn-style and the raw tuna is done as a ceviche. The menu is […]

Bistro Molines

REVIEW There’s so much to love about this Hunter Valley favourite: the spectacular views of the vine-clad valley, the charm of the French provincial décor, and the friendly floor staff who offer a specific dose of hospitality that you just don’t get in the city. Then there’s the hearty, European-inspired food that’s a real crowd-pleaser. […]
Lucio’s

Lucio’s

REVIEW If walls could talk, Lucio’s might need to shut down, such are the classified conversations of Sydney’s powerbrokers, media heavyweights and artists who’ve broken bread in its sunny dining rooms. Not only do they enjoy discretion among works from art royalty who’ve eaten and sketched here – John Olsen, Charles Blackman and Garry Shead, […]
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Bloodwood

Bloodwood

REVIEW There’s intensity here: in the energy levels of floor staff working a perpetually full house, in the furious output in the open kitchen from early evening, among diners packed cheek-by-jowl along the narrow terrace’s brick walls, in a drinks list big on organic wines, left-of-centre grape varieties and craft beers. But most of all […]
Berta

Berta

This restaurant has closed. REVIEW Jamie Irving isn’t pushing the boundaries of Italian cuisine too far at this understated bistro – he’s pushing impeccably sourced ingredients and presenting them without tricks. Tuesday nights are even dedicated to celebrating a seasonal ingredient such as chestnuts or chilli, or northern Italian cheeses, perhaps. The buzzy room befits […]
Sage Dining Rooms

Sage Dining Rooms

REVIEW Sage has seen about as many head chefs as Canberra has sworn in prime ministers in recent years. Fortunately, the cosy fine-diner has found consistency with Thomas Heinrich at the helm. He’s pared back the menu and the reliance on foams and soils. And floor staff have dialled down the formality, if anything this […]
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Bistro perfection

Bistro perfection

Prefer your salad leaves manicured? Jeremy Strode, a chef with possibly superhuman powers of finesse and consistency, is in full flight at Bistrode CBD, writes Pat Nourse.
On common ground

On common ground

Two small, well-crafted restaurants have sprung up on either side of the Yarra: a boon for both neighbourhoods, writes Michael Harden.
And the winners are…

And the winners are…

The people behind Australia’s favourite restaurants gathered at Flower Drum in Melbourne to toast the winners in Gourmet Traveller’s 2011 Restaurant Awards.
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October

October

Multicoloured tomatoes, stripy eggplant, vibrant broad beans and heavenly celery have sprung to life in Stephanie Alexander’s garden.
Online Q&A: Noma’s René Redzepi

Online Q&A: Noma’s René Redzepi

In April the number-one spot in the World's 50 Best Restaurants poll was taken from El Bulli by Noma, a restaurant in Copenhagen. In October, Noma, a cookbook by chef René Redzepi, hits the shelves and Redzepi will visit Australia to promote it in conjunction with the Sydney International Food Festival and Phaidon. On the eve of his return to Australia trip, Redzepi spoke to Gourmet Traveller chief restaurant critic Pat Nourse.
2011 GT Restaurant Awards event

2011 GT Restaurant Awards event

Melbourne's Flower Drum was the scarlet setting this year for the Australian restaurant business's night of nights, the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Awards and the launch of the 2011 edition of the GT Australian Restaurant Guide.
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September

September

There’s a riot of colour in Stephanie Alexander’s garden, from exotic South American tubers to purple-podded peas.
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Wizards of Mod Oz

Wizards of Mod Oz

The lauded team behind Glebe Point Diner have brought their unique brand of rusticity without clichés to Neutral Bay, writes Pat Nourse.
The drum to beat

The drum to beat

After 35 years in the business, Australia’s pre-eminent Cantonese restaurant has a new menu and even more energy than ever, writes Michael Harden. Peking duck, anyone?
Quay to the city

Quay to the city

Call it the snow-egg effect. Peter Gilmore’s Sydney restaurant has been booked out for months. Now the chef with a passion for produce presents a sumptuous cookbook – and that recipe.
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Izakaya Den

Izakaya Den

REVIEW Izakaya Den has all the hallmarks of an ideal Tinder venue: a tucked-away CBD location, flattering lighting, local wines and interesting cocktails. There are even barstools that fit two humans side by side with a seat at the bar primo, the tap-tap of knives a pleasant counterpoint to booming tunes. After eight years, the […]
Sarti

Sarti

REVIEW Sarti is at least three places in one: a favourite of the long-lunch and night-time crowd, thanks to its open-air rooftop terrace; a modern Italian restaurant serving everyone from quiet couples to family birthday groups; and a buzzy, popular cocktail bar. The décor is 1980s Italian nightclub meets nonna’s house: think glossy black and […]
Moda

Moda

REVIEW This leafy CBD sanctuary, with its covered courtyard tables and chandelier centrepiece, embodies Spanishenergía, its ambience a clear nod to the chef-patron’s Barcelona upbringing. The flavour-driven dishes are less clearly inflected, drawing as much inspiration from Mediterranean and Queensland bounty as Catalonia. Padrón peppers fire up alongside spicy Manolete chorizo, and Queensland mackerel comes […]
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2011 Restaurant Awards nominees

2011 Restaurant Awards nominees

Want a snapshot of the movers and shakers in the Australian food scene? Look no further than the nominees for this year’s GT Restaurant Awards.
MoVida, mo’ magic

MoVida, mo’ magic

MoVida Aqui, the latest rendering of Melbourne’s modern Spanish powerhouse, could challenge the loyalties of even the most diehard fan of the original, writes Michael Harden.
Good ideas to share

Good ideas to share

Hidden in a laneway at the city’s southern end, Berta is a thing of beauty, writes Pat Nourse. It’s about potent flavours and natural textures; about good ideas rather than showing off.
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August

August

Winter salad greens, sugarsnap peas, young beetroot and narcissus flourish this month in Stephanie Alexander’s garden.
Shining a light

Shining a light

From the food and the venue to the outstanding winners, the focus was on the country’s finest at this year’s Gourmet Traveller Travel Awards.
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London calling

London calling

After seven years Down Under, chef Bruno Loubet has returned to London to head a new restaurant – but he’s taken his laid-back Brisbane attitude with him, writes Guy Dimond.
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Loam restaurant review

Loam restaurant review

Aaron Turner’s love of the countryside in which he grew up, combined with his beautifully conceived food, is thrilling diners on Victoria’s Bellarine Peninsula, writes Michael Harden.
July

July

Tender shoots of garlic, heads of young broccoli and feathery clusters of flat-leaf parsley are emerging in Stephanie Alexander’s winter garden.
David Chang rocks Oz

David Chang rocks Oz

Infatuated with Australia, Momofuku’s David Chang recalls his trip and shares recipes, including his famous pork buns.
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Stephanie’s garden – June

Stephanie’s garden – June

The mornings have turned crisp, and Stephanie Alexander’s garden is looking a little bare, but Tuscan kale, artichokes and broad beans battle on.
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Stephanie’s garden – May

Stephanie’s garden – May

Stephanie Alexander joins Gourmet Traveller with a new monthly column on growing your own kitchen garden. This month, we’re planting leeks, peas and spinach.
Mangia bene

Mangia bene

Whether it’s a rustic dish that reminds them of their mammas’ cooking, or a fresh take on a classic, Australia’s best Italian chefs nominate their favourite Italian dishes.
Balzari, Melbourne restaurant review

Balzari, Melbourne restaurant review

Balzari is putting Lygon Street back on the map with authentic regional cooking, a pared-back aesthetic and charming, hospitable service, writes Michael Harden.
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Flour power

Flour power

The humble grissino, pride of Turin, has saved a prince from death, captivated Napoleon and inspired the Futurists, writes John Irving. And you thought it was just a breadstick.
Otto, Sydney restaurant review

Otto, Sydney restaurant review

A decade on Sydney’s fine-dining A-list is a lifetime in restaurant years, but at Otto, new chef Richard Ptacnik isn’t taking its gold-plated credentials for granted, writes Pat Nourse.
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No 35, Melbourne restaurant review

No 35, Melbourne restaurant review

The views at Melbourne’s Sofitel are legendary and now chef Stuart McVeigh is delivering food which gives the glittering vista the respect it deserves, writes Michael Harden.
Medusa Taverna, Sydney restaurant review

Medusa Taverna, Sydney restaurant review

With simple food done well, Medusa Taverna may be the best casual Greek diner in Sydney, writes Pat Nourse. It’s polished without being pricey and there’s not a fish-net in sight.
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Beirut to Balwyn

Beirut to Balwyn

It’s a Melbourne phenomenon: the rise and rise of modern Middle Eastern cuisine. Michael Harden rides the second wave of the city’s sumac-spiced love affair.
Enter the Chang

Enter the Chang

New York’s Momofuku is a modern-day restaurant phenomenon, but what’s it all about? With chef David Chang visiting Australia in March, Pat Nourse offers this primer.
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Are you a food tragic?

Are you a food tragic?

It’s time to take our annual foodism test. Your obsession could win you one of four fabulous KitchenAid stand mixers, designed for those who really love to cook.
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Ormeggio, Sydney restaurant review

Ormeggio, Sydney restaurant review

Having eaten his fill of generic “Italian” food, Pat Nourse is excited anew by the distinctly personal, regional path taken by Alessandro Pavoni at Mosman’s Ormeggio.
Provenance restaurant review

Provenance restaurant review

Michael Ryan’s excellent cooking highlights the strength of local produce and places Provenance among the country’s best regional restaurants, writes Michael Harden.
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2010 Exposure Gala

2010 Exposure Gala

We had a ball when fine Italian food and sparkling good company all came together for a good cause at the annual Exposure Gala. PHOTOGRAPHY DANIEL MAHON
Sake, Sydney restaurant review

Sake, Sydney restaurant review

This new modern Japanese eatery in The Rocks is shaking up Sydney dining, and the bar’s signature Sake Bomb is just the start of it, writes Pat Nourse.
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Comme, Melbourne restaurant review

Comme, Melbourne restaurant review

Chef Daniel Southern’s debut at Comme has brought new energy, focus and confidence to the restaurant, writes Michael Harden. Now the food is as sharp as its slick surrounds.
Christmas suppliers

Christmas suppliers

Christmas catch
We’ve gone hunting and gathering across the country to bring you the best for your Christmas table.
Favourite cookbooks of 2009

Favourite cookbooks of 2009

In another busy year for food publishing, there were some shining stars you’ll want under your tree – to give or receive. Here are the brightest, hand-picked by the GT editorial team.
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Online Q&A: Adriano Zumbo, pâtissier

Online Q&A: Adriano Zumbo, pâtissier

Pat Nourse caught up with the star pastry chef at his Sydney café to talk chocolate (he eats about eight handfuls a day), the future of desserts (smoke and bubblegum?) and his stance on the Violet Crumble/Crunchie divide.
Ocean Room, Sydney restaurant review

Ocean Room, Sydney restaurant review

Map in hand, Pat Nourse navigates his way around a tuna wing at Ocean Room. On the way, he discovers a flash new fit-out and new focus at this harbourside restaurant.
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Talking Thai: David Thompson on Thai Street Food

Talking Thai: David Thompson on Thai Street Food

On the eve of publication of Thai Street Food, his exploration of the cuisine of the noodle stalls, soup vendors and papaya-pounders of Bangkok and surrounds, London-based Australian Thai authority David Thompson sits down at Sailors Thai on a sunny Sydney morning to talk to Pat Nourse about kanom jin fermented rice noodles, the complexity and dynamic nature of Asian hawker foodways, opening a Thai restaurant in Thailand and why you shouldn't put your photographer in the back seat.