The latest venture from the Hemmes family is their most ambitious yet, writes Pat Nourse, a grand 240-seater that’s a love letter to the great Cantonese restaurants of Hong Kong.
If you’re looking for an Australian-made cured sausage with the taste sensation that only lactic fermentation can provide, you’re in luck, writes Richard Cornish.
Innards and extremities, says Fergus Henderson, even more than other ingredients, need love and care and understanding – and the same could be said of producing a cookbook.
Magnus Nilsson, chef at cult restaurant Fäviken, has written a big-hearted book about his tiny eatery in the Swedish wilderness. Pat Nourse takes a first look.
The kitchen benchmark As Brigitte Hafner eagerly anticipates her own home kitchen renovation, she considers the key elements that make up a cook’s ultimate workspace – including the kitchen sink.
REVIEW Chickens and children are as much part of the experience as the food here: there’s a playground for kids, while cows, pigs and chooks are star attractions at The Farm, the restaurant’s grand agricultural, ecological and educational project. Embraced by locals and mobbed by visitors, things can get chaotic, but the floor staff keep […]
REVIEW Sokyo is different things to different diners. The name fuses Sydney and Tokyo, and for the most part it’s a blazing Harajuku swirl of boisterous flavours. You might start with the kingfish ceviche topped with slivers of potato and a hint of chilli, or be tempted by the tuna on a hot, crunchy rice […]
REVIEW There’s bustle without the hustle, bite without the skite – Red Lantern manages to be streetwise and sophisticated at the same time. Hoist a Hoi An Julep while contemplating the extensive French and Australian wine list and the Indochine idyll, long marble tables, padded banquettes and Vietnamese bric-à-brac. The entrées are where the true […]
REVIEW The name translates as “people” and Popolo is a crowd-pleasing affair. Adoring locals, faithful families and the Zegna set all converge here for its exceptional southern Italian food. The pop in Popolo comes courtesy of Naomi Lowry; her cooking is by turns sophisticated, homespun and transporting. Pasta is a highlight, not least malloreddus with […]
REVIEW We’d call it a quiet achiever if the music wasn’t rocking quite so hard. Izakaya Fujiyama is one of Sydney’s top destinations for Japanese snacks and possibly its best for sake. There’s a world of sake on offer and most of the waitstaff can follow even the vaguest instruction (“I want something to cool […]
REVIEW Named after the gardens it graces, this restaurant has a Hamptons-meets-the-Highlands look that resembles a busy conservatory. Soumak rugs and the open kitchen framed by jars of preserved vegetable jars set the curated-homely tone for Matt Moran’s tribute to garden-to-plate dining. Yes, you’ll see lamb from the Moran family farm, plus a seasonal map […]
REVIEW Chat Thai is at a location near you. Some take bookings, some don’t. The service is efficient, and attentive. The menus are big and embrace many regions, all done well, while the food is fresh and fast. Ordering the pad Thai here is no cop-out: rich, balanced and satisfying, it’s the go-to noodle dish. […]
REVIEW It’s such a pleasure to wander through the unassuming downstairs café to discover this wonderful restaurant. The room is similarly low-key and the service understated, placing the focus firmly on the food. Chefs Karl and Katrina Kanetani, whose résumés include Est, Quay and Tetsuya’s, present an impressive seven-course dégustation that draws heavily on local […]
REVIEW This is, hands down, the best place to break bread in Newcastle. You wouldn’t know it by looking at the restaurant’s unassuming shopfront, but Subo is a gem. And the bread you’re breaking is local Baked Uprising sourdough with butter, caramelised garlic and chive salt. It’s so good you’ll want seconds, but hey, there’s […]
REVIEW The heritage building is key to Circa’s charm, and its tiny lounge is the place to sit and have dessert as you contemplate history – apple pie ice-cream with granola-style toffee crumb, say, with a Hunter Valley sticky to draw out the apple flavour. The food at Circa is diligently sourced from its kitchen […]
REVIEW Chef Douglas Elder’s penchant for gels, crumbs and creative plating will impress out-of-towners seeking an affordable taste of fine dining in an approachable, family-friendly space. And at $96 for three courses and matching wines, it really is affordable. Lightly battered quail with rich terrine, yuzu mayonnaise, tangy apple kimchi and slaw is an upmarket […]
REVIEW Melbourne has a thing for comfortable Italian, and this self-assured laneway trattoria knows how to deliver the staples. Butter comes in foil, pasta is handmade and the Collins Street suits soak it all up like a wedge of ciabatta in a pool of Nap sauce. Evenings draw a diverse crowd – it’s also the […]
REVIEW Overlooking the tree-lined Fawkner Park, Bistro Gitan occupies a particularly blessed quadrant of South Yarra where nothing, it seems, could go wrong. Here, little does. The pearls-and-polo set comfortably take to their bentwood chairs and glasses of Perrier-Jouët from the French-accented wine list before entrusting themselves to the Reymond family’s famed hospitality, albeit in […]
REVIEW It’s within cooee of Queen Street Mall, but this laneway bolthole feels coolly out of step with it. Moodily lit with an industrial-chic interior featuring brick, leather hides and brass, there are nooks aplenty to dally in, including a quirky courtyard behind. Even the wine list is character-filled – a “reserve, vintage and obscure” […]
REVIEW If you’re not averse to ants with your salmon or roasted mealworm clinging to stir-fried water spinach, you’ll get plenty of love at Public: big flavours, adventurous pairings and seriously good cooking are top of the menu. An emu tartare with cured egg yolk, served atop lavosh, stands out for its unique taste and […]
REVIEW Double-dressed tables. Fussy compositions on big plates. A chef that loves playing with guests’ food: team Petite Mort evidently missed – or ignored – the memo about contemporary restaurant trends. But for those unmoved by the zeitgeist (no bookings, communal tables, venues that lean more bar than dining room), this bare-brick diner in leafy […]
Gourmet Traveller’s team of 60 reviewers has eaten its way from one end of the country to the other to produce the 2013 Gourmet Traveller Australian Restaurant Guide. To launch the new book in style, and to announce our annual Restaurant Guide Awards, we gathered together the nation's finest restaurant talent to celebrate at Sydney’s hot new modern Chinese blockbuster, Mr Wong. Welcome inside...
REVIEW Diners and drinkers are in confident hands at this buzzy wine bar and bistro. The wood-fired grill keeps regulars happy, offal lovers are cheered by the menu, and the wine list is ever evolving, with sherries currently in favour. Downstairs is all high tables and bar stools, timber walls and industrial heritage. Upstairs has […]
This list has been compiled using our star ratings, moderated by our state and national editors. Every restaurant listed in the guide should offer a winning dining experience; any that achieve a placement in the Top 100 represent another order of excellence again. [To check out all of our 2013 Restaurant Awards coverage, click here. […]
Kylie Kwong has become a champion of native foods, serving up dishes such as stir-fried yabbies with samphire at her Sydney diner Billy Kwong. It doesn’t get any more Australian-Chinese than this.
A restaurant’s choice in music sets a distinctive tone, and at Momofuku, the music is a particular feature. Chef and playlist-dictator David Chang explains why.
With the opening of Red Lantern on Riley from co-owners Luke Nguyen and Mark Jensen, Sydney’s modern Vietnamese dining scene just got a whole lot brighter, writes Pat Nourse.
Old-school fine dining of the truffle-shaving-at-the-table variety may be making a comeback if Albert Park’s reinvigorated The Point is anything to go by, writes Michael Harden.
Taste makers Neuromechanics aside, how do our five taste receptors transmit the phenomenal richness we experience as a meal? Neuroscientist and psychologist Jason Gallate explains.
Moveable feast Foraged foods are enlivening plates at restaurants abroad and at home, but, as Richard Cornish writes, they’re a resource that must be handled with respect.
If you’re an adventurous diner, times have never been better, and we’d like to think the places and faces shortlisted for this year’s GT Restaurant Awards are doing their bit. The winners will be announced at the awards ceremony that launches our 2013 Australian Restaurant Guide next month, along with the big one: Restaurant of the Year. We hope you’ll join us in September.
Restaurateur Paul Mathis is back, and his latest Japanese venture is the real deal, albeit one that’s as much Melbourne as it is Tokyo. Michael Harden visits Akachochin.
No other meal is more important, so get up and at ’em: 26 of the most exciting breakfast experiences in the country, in no particular order. Candied bacon, anyone?
At the Estelle, two chefs with disparate talents defy expectations of boho Northcote to deliver a dégustation that’s skilful, generous and unpretentious, writes Michael Harden.
Colin Fassnidge, the poet of pork, is one of the most interesting talents cooking in Sydney today, writes Pat Nourse, who visits 4Fourteen and asks: is that a slice of snout?
The onset of winter has slowed growth in Stephanie Alexander’s garden, but the lemon tree is laden, the garlic has started growing and the kale is plentiful.
He likes game shooting. He makes Scotch eggs. He is one of the most respected chefs in London, and the only Australian currently to hold three Michelin stars. He is Brett Graham, chef-patron of Notting Hill two-star The Ledbury and The Harwood Arms in Fulham. We drop by his pub for a pint.
They became known as the Brit-pack, a group of young, confident, classically trained British chefs who bought complex technique, fun and black pudding to Melbourne’s dining rooms in the ’90s. We reunite them.
The Fish Shop is about seafood made fun and accessible via a mash-up of Aussie milk-bar and British chippy tropes, with a dash of Americana to season it, writes Pat Nourse.
Forget the intercity rivalry, writes Michael Harden. In Pei Modern, Sydney chef Mark Best has brought something unique and original to Melbourne’s buzzing food scene.
Sausage today can mean chorizo, sai grog, cevapcici or merguez, but not so long ago it meant only one thing: the British banger. Nichola Fletcher reports.
It’s in Stanmore. It’s tiny. It’s dégustation-only. It’s Sixpenny, the most ambitious restaurant to have opened in Sydney this year. Pat Nourse recommends adding it to your must-eat list.
From the robata grill to the do-it-yourself taco, Circa – the flagship restaurant of the Prince of Wales Hotel – has been reincarnated as a space that’s completely on-trend.
Joseph Vargetto has taken his Sicilian heritage and years of restaurant experience, added some modern inspiration and come up trumps at Mister Bianco, writes Michael Harden.
Stephanie Alexander uncovers a rogue jumbo zucchini, and autumn brings a second crop of some of her favourites, including bush beans and Chantenay carrots.
It’s virtually impossible to think of Italian food without the tomato – no Neapolitan sauce? – but it’s a relatively recent addition to the cuisine, writes Nicholas Doumanis.
Philippa Sibley’s restrained, flavour-packed dishes run the gamut from breakfast to nightcap at her new digs, a former bank building rebranded as Albert St Food & Wine.
There’s a bounty of garlic and tomatoes, but it’s the peach and nectarine trees that are yielding the most beautiful rewards in Stephanie Alexander’s garden.
At Cook It Raw Japan, 15 of the world's most creative chefs were asked to create dishes which both reflected the environment of Japan's Ishikawa prefecture, where the event was held, and were in harmony with the serving wares made specifically for each of them by local artisans.
PHOTOGRAPHY ERIK OLSSON
Read more about Cook it Raw 2011.
As if foraging in Japanese forests and netting your own ducks weren’t challenge enough, the latest Cook It Raw festival threw art into the mix, writes Pat Nourse.
PHOTOGRAPHY ERIK OLSSON
Read more about Cook it Raw 2011.
Fish heads, pork belly and kara-age – when it comes to authentic Japanese bar food (and Japanese booze), Izakaya Fujiyama is the real deal, writes Pat Nourse.
Bistro Gitan, a restaurant with the Reymond family name behind it, has a French-accented menu, a playful gypsy spirit and loads of charm, writes Michael Harden.
The team behind Sydney’s Icebergs and North Bondi Italian Food bring their magic to a bold new venture with a grill-focused Mediterranean menu. Here’s a taste of what’s cooking at Neild Avenue, the restaurant for summer.
Peter Doyle is making raspberry trifle, Matt Stone’s doing a quinoa and asparagus salad and Paul Wilson is whipping up homemade mustard. We asked 42 chefs what they’d bring to the GT barbie.
South Australia’s Spencer Gulf king prawns are the first Asia-Pacific prawns certified for sustainability by the Marine Stewardship Council, writes David Sly.
Sydney’s new breed of boutique butchers may look flashy but they’re delivering old-fashioned service and quality products in spades (and sometimes, a porchetta panino for lunch).
Things are looking up at Star City. The Star, as it’s now called, has invested heavily in offering bold new food and drink ventures, which means that for diners, the odds have gone from a crapshoot to blackjack. That is to say, the house still holds all the cards, but if you’re canny, you’ve got a shot at coming out ahead, and you’re sure to have plenty of fun along the way.
There’s no greater party to launch the festive season than the Melbourne Cup and there’s no more exclusive invitation than one to Flemington’s Birdcage.
Looking for the perfect present for the food-lover in your life? From binchotan charcoal to caviar, here’s what our top chefs and food identities are hoping to find under the tree.
The kids are hyped up, Dad is into the spirit, and Roger Moore is on the telly. It’s Christmas at Fergus Henderson’s house.
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